daunker

Thanks this is what I'm thinking. Will pick one up tomorrow, and some new pipe 🤦‍♂️

Thanks! Happy days that's what I have- thank you!! I mean it was a swept tee when I said it's fitted the right way around. Outfoxed by terminology will remember that thank you! The first bathroom with the rest bend is the main ensuite one so probably primary anyway. Would have needed a longer pipe length if it was a y-junction required!

I've read the building regs guidance about y junctions under buildings but I think this is where two horizontal runs connect and then not able to rod both. I am converting a building so wanted both bathrooms on the same run as only have to cut the slab once and go under cast founds. Is this ok? I've searched here fairly extensively and think it is. Should I have used a Y and then 45 bend rather than a T triple socket equal junction (it's the right way round) for the second bathroom? Thanks! There's an IC about a metre outside the building. I've Building Control coming on Friday would like everything to be right as I plan to fill with pea to crown as Friday afternoon is wet weather coming. Thanks!

I've read the building regs guidance about y junctions under buildings but I think this is where two horizontal runs connect and then not able to rod both. I am converting a building so wanted both bathrooms on the same run as only have to cut the slab once and go under cast founds. Is this ok? I've searched here fairly extensively and think it is. Should I have used a Y and then 45 bend rather than a T (it's the right way round) for the second bathroom? Thanks!

Thanks I would have liked to. But because its a vaulted ceiling and conversion of existing the height at the entrance/low side, I'm on my limit for allowance with 150mm insulation and screed, plus coming down 50mm+timber. My plan was where the exposed steels from the portal frame are to have thicker insulation, and box around them slightly oversized, somehow making a feature whilst taking out the cold bridge to allow me to run cables up, and then I would just channel out a groove left to right through insulation required for cables to light fittings which would be surface mounted, which I'm planning to be as few as required (ie larger) Is this allowed? My alternative is to perhaps run the lights on wire side to side.

Was just too expensive, and the trial pack of knauf Omnifit worked perfectly. Then got a great price on a few pallets of rockwool rwa45, 'the same' 🙈🤦‍♂️ and it's the one which sags

Have excess black fibreglass insect mesh, will try this! Thank you!

Converting an existing building, I have been putting 140mm frametherm 32 between purlins and then 75mm rockwool batts below. 600mm c/c I have trimmed the rockwool batts. However there is some sag, some worse then others. Due to budget constraints I'll not be able to put ceiling finish (timber not plaster due to building movement) for some time. But I do have the 50mm PIR sheets to go under the rafters. Is it strong enough to support it, or will it flex too much? Suggested number fixings per sheet? Was going to use penny washers/insulation discs. (Also while on topic anyone done a timber ceiling finish, and can suggest any good wood options)

Thanks team, couldn't get better, ended up hiring a van and driving 380 miles to do two pickups from FB marketplace on the other side of the country, bizarrely both within 30miles of each other! After fuel and hire it it worked out at £24/roll for frametherm 32 140mm fitted 58 rolls in a Peugeot boxer lwb. Started popping it in today, rolls don't go far but seems nice stuff. Did consider about an hour into the expedition that I'd have been more sensible to just get the frametherm 35 and be done with it.

Thanks @ProDave I had seen your previous post on it and that price was from them actually.

I'm putting mineral wool between my timber frame studs and rafters. Just wondering if anyone has a recent price for frametherm, doesn't seem to be stock item as my usual BM and trying a couple of others looking like £18sqm for the 32, 140mm (£59 a roll). I need three pallets (72 rolls) of the stuff! Just way out of my budget. Frametherm 35 is lot cheaper £7.28sqm! So probably go that way unless anyone has a better price for the 32? I know there are superglass, isover and ursa terra but not had luck with any of them being cheaper, and have heard good things about the knauf Thanks!

That's a very good point actually. I was thinking that the whole structure needed to be tied together. Single storey, as you surmised timber frame is only there for the reasons you say. Will ask the SE, originally was going to be cavity wall hence retro-ties which I could build into the inner block. I was assuming something similar be needed for TF.

I am doing a conversion and have existing 225mm or 140mm blockwork (depending on which side as some were laid flat). I want to put up timber-frame internally, but am just unsure how to tie it to the concrete frame. As the cavity will only be say 25mm, and the panels will be osb and membrane. I've been looking at ties all morning, and just can't see how I can solve this. I think mostly the masonry outer skin goes on afterwards and as such the ties are left out for the mortar joints. Alternatively I have seen some you drill from the outside but this seems more tricky particularly with the 225mm blockwork rather than just a simple single brick clad. Would welcome any thoughts, just not sure how to fix to the frame once the membrane and osb is on. I know there are quite a few barn conversions that have done similar, so there must be a way but having looked at threads on here I haven't yet found one! Thanks!!

Thanks! I've changed if to 0.4 and not noticing any deterioration in house temps at all, it seems to be running a better COP too, but was very poor over the real cold weather spell we've just had. Thanks @jothand @Bob77for that, yes now read this in Vaillants brochure but really appreciate you for posting. Seems unusual way but I guess makes sense once you wrap head around it. having a lot of fun playing with controller settings if nothing else, although changing so much and the environmental temps are so variable that I'm not sure which changes are making the biggest impacts. Definitely heading the right way tho

Thanks!! So I have a 50L wall hung buffer tank. I've been researching and I think add the environmental yield to the power consumption and then divide by power consumption to get the COP. Still not good though (2.78!!). Does increase the annual heat demand to around 17,000kwh, does that still suggest it's oversized. The MCS installers said better to be a bit oversized as it is more efficient if it runs low and slow rather than full throttle, and also kinder on the unit with respect to lifespan. I'm not aware of it switching on and off regularly. Yeah temp for DHW is 55 and flow temp seems to be 45. I don't think I can change that. Thanks Marvin I think the arotherm plus has that inbuilt, to modulate depending on temperature. Clearly something not right though, and keen to get to the bottom of it. Thanks for prompts and starters will be speaking to the installers tomorrow