markc

Do you like the design? Unfinished MDF is drab. If it works for you and is reasonably well built then it can be finished and look amazing, much cheaper and easier than starting again.

As above, water running down a large well pointed wall isn’t a problem. More likely that the ground level has been raised, maybe concrete etc. That prevents water from draining away, some pics would help.

I have been struggling to get any decent furniture board, everything now seems to be very thinly covered and almost see through so I have turned to MDF painted with 2-pack car paint and the finish is far superior. It’s all down to surface prep and sealing the edges prior to painting

Sika or similar body panel adhesive from car spares or paint suppliers. Will stick anything to anything just about and completely waterproof, mask off any areas you don’t want it to stick to. regarding gaps in mirror adhesive this is for airflow behind large mirrors to prevent condensation being trapped and affecting the backing

Hi and welcome, a vast wealth of knowledge and experience on here, plus a good deal of light hearted banter

Good morning and welcome

The ones I have seen are thermally broken with a slide in rubber/urethane type material. Separation distance doesn’t really matter as the heat or cold cannot jump any gap from one piece of aluminium to an adjacent member. @Iceverge, that’s an interesting and useful comparison.

Nothing wrong with doing that

Unless it’s a composite lintel, then it shares the load with the soldier course. however, perforated should still be ok

What? Nearly 6k/t that’s ridiculous

Cheers Peter, I was just writing something similar

As it’s a garage I can’t see a problem with this

I like Mapei stuff, had a small area to do this weekend just to level up about a sq metre of old wall, stone, concrete and thought I would try Srewfix no nonsense self levelling … Carefully tamped it level with a float and when I came back .. arrrfggghhhhh! it had haunched up into a ridge across the middle … much scraping later it sorted it, luckily wasn’t fully cured!

If the basement is going to be classed as habitable then you will need to include flood prevention … unless you are on a very steep slope and the basement is self draining. assuming it is underground then a sump with pumps and alarms, this will also have bearing on the floor make up

Nothing wrong with wall plate on top of lintel …. Depending on overhand you may have to be careful of door catching rafters/eaves if applicable

Possibly floor paint with sawdust added to give it a non slip texture

Flat level bedrock around 600mm below the surface would be a be a foundation dream, but would then be a nightmare for drainage/inspection chambers etc.

Haha, that’s why I said better, not good lol

How high is the deck likely to be?

That looks much better

A slope is generally not deemed a fall as the slope would break your fall and slow you down. I don’t know of any specific dimensions but I would have thought a low level deck then 600mm before a slope would be fine. how steep is the slope? Material? Any obstructions on the way down?

150mm without mesh is fine for most things if the ground underneath is stable. Our yard is done like this and often has 20tonne plus point loads and 100tonne on 7 axles

Big difference

As above, you will be surprised how much space can be taken up by old d&d.