markc

the pumps need to be removed and cleared regularly so they do just sit around loose in the bottom

Hi, can you clarify what you are wanting? Strongbacks assist the floor`s stability and rigidity while strapping is there to restrain the walls, not the floors. You can never have enough or too much strapping, always err on the side of caution - nothing worse than someone pushing a heavy sofa against a wall and the wall bowing out and staying there.

Glassandstainless.com based in Congleton, west midlands They have made me a couple of all glass internal doors and the quality and price was excellent

Quite difficult to cut an opening within 5mm ...., you end up faffing around and trial fits many times. I would go for 10mm all round as this also gives a descent gap for sealing.

Extra works on day rates is fine, but thats no justification for taking the p$£%. We all have off days, but the reasons given are obviously the norm so i would accept his offer to leave. Better to be delayed than have constant grief and `Extra` costs

Compriband is excellent for sealing against brick/blockwork and does work equally well against OSB, i reckon they just took the easy option

An eye for an eye, kick up a fuss and send them down the party wall act route .... or you would be prepared to accept an apology .... and £5k

Yet to find a Plot of our own but i have always been a great believer in people helping each other. If anyone has an ongoing build in the area and could use some help, it would be good to see how you are getting on and give my girlfriend an opportunity to see a self build in the flesh. I have a lot of years experience with erecting structures, steelwork, fabrication, timber engineering, cranage etc. and now own a company supplying cherry pickers (mobile elevating work platforms) and mini cranes etc. If i can be of any assistance and/or you have a build going on that we could visit, please get in touch.

Very little overhang into the gutter, plus shallow angle must be allowing water to hug the surface and come back underneath. If possible bend the end of the felt downwards so the droplets have to fall off the end

Good morning and welcome, Looks like we are in pretty much the same situation, do you have the plot already? what area? hopefully i will have a plot in the not too distant future and design can start properly

I would definitely go with the DPC to separate timber from concrete. If your garage floor is likely to get soaked or washed from time to time i would also pack the soleplate to allow any water to run underneath. Plastic shims like the ones glaziers use are ideal. should be placed under the stud points. These are also great if the slab isn't perfectly flat.

We used to erect quite a few commercial buildings so either: 3 or 4 inch annular ring nails using an air gun, or if we were using threaded rods chemical anchored in for the sole plate we would leave the rods over length, drill corresponding holes and fix with washer and nut .. bit more faffy but incredibly strong and easy to check / sign off after.

Expanding sleeve anchors as long as you are not getting close to the edge of the blocks, otherwise chemical anchors (threaded rod set into resin) as these bond tightly to the concrete without causing spalling or cracking etc.

Expanding sleeve anchors as long as you are not getting close to the edge of the blocks, otherwise chemical anchors (threaded rod set into resin) as these bond tightly to the concrete without causing spalling or cracking etc.

I would do exactly the same, although i have just had another look at the Regs and technically the board isnt needed as the CU is fully enclosed ... i still prefer the added barrier

Yes it should be non combustible. In an installation last year i used a piece of cement board over the standard Chipboard the wall was made of. Maybe overkill but i have seen CU fires before.

On site fab is often done on small fiddly jobs where the effort to survey and draw up etc outweighs the work needed to complete the job, or the fabricator may not have workshop facilities (we used to call them snagging gangs), either way, it can be a very cost effective ... but keep an eye on them if wanting to work on day rates as opposed to a fixed price.

Sounds fantastic! good luck and have fun!

Build on origional if still sound. If not, do not disturb the pavement! remove the existing (you could carefully undercut the pavement area, but the wall doesnt really need it as the pavement itself will act as support)

Hello and welcome, im new on here and the wealth of knowledge and ideas is never ending. looks like anb interesting project you have

LED Strips all the way. I tried LED spots and the shadows made working.... well tinkering..... well keeping out of the way very difficult

Hi, the two bathrooms back to back at the top appear very tight to door opening sweeps. Nothing worse than having to wedge yourself in a corner or stand in the bath to close the door

A survey of an existing building can be very basic. I have previously been engineer and erection manager on many small, medium and large scale projects where we were supplying and installing quite complex steelwork for new build and refurb works. The surveys were often carried out with a tape measure, plumb bob and a site level. Steelwork into existing building connections is often left over length if going onto pads or an allowance for shims or grouting if face fixed to existing walls etc. Your engineer should provide the details for steel section sizes, connection details and overall dimensions etc. but the fabricator can and should determine allowances for connections into existing structure.

Im guessing 10mm is a typo and should read 100mm. Blinding layer should be well compacted to prevent voids and settlement later on, regardless of that, is the B.I saying its too deep because there isnt enough space left above to FFL? or that he (or she) feels you could have saved a few pennies by using more crushed infill to save on sand?

I have to agree with all of the above, We are also new to self build and presently looking for a plot. My girlfriend saw the news regarding planning changes and asked me the same question. Sadly it appears it will just take some red tape out of larger developments and do nothing to help self or small builders. Self employment shouldn't be a problem unless you are not showing any real regular income. I have pretty much been self employed since i was 20 (now 55). Last 28 years a director and 50% share holder and im still classed as self employed when it comes to mortgages and loans etc. Dont give up ... if someone has the passion and determination to do something, ways open up for them.