markc

Would love to know how that meter gives CO2 emmisions

Built-in fridges/freezers and pretty much any appliance is all about the install when it comes to noise. Recently installed a neff unit and it was really noisy, loosened a couple of the screws that were making the side panel act like a drum and then made even quieter with a block of timber stuck behind the kick board to stop that resonating … after that couldn’t hear it at all.

My smart meter took around 2 months after install to finally communicate

What’s either side cabinet wise? Wouldn’t be the first time I’ve had to fit a sink across two cabinets by cutting away some of the side panel for the bowl to sit “thro” adjacent cabinets

I am really trying to think of a Pocster-esk answer to this ?

We buy most of our stuff from Italy, white is generally ground/earth, blue is always positive.

After WW2 and a massive leap in the wrong direction when the internet gave idiots a voice

Does it have a hole right diameter for drop bar? If so it goes into top of concrete to keep the hole tidy

Couple of noggins between joists either side of the wall and then a diagonal from the end of the wall to the purlin. You are not looking at big spans or loads (steep pitch roof), possibly an additional vertical as you say spread over a couple of joists to be doubly sure

Never seen a DPC at that point, same here, can’t think of any good reason for it

Definitely in a duct

+1 on the mezzanine, 17ft is a long span for timbers, you could use joists (I beam or Pozi). sitting on the block work fully is possible, on the edge would be a definite no. Perimeter channel would be fairly easy to put between columns. you really need to check the column foundations as these are unlikely to be sufficient to take the additional load of a work or storage space. cool building tho

Not easy to answer specifically as we don’t know what, span etc of the joists. what is the section and span of the purlin? might be easier to turn the purlin into a trussed member to enable it to span without support. If you definitely want to remove the whole wall you could add a steel and the prop sit on top of that in the loft space (steel to bridge wall to wall)

@nod cheers mate, that’s good to know

Doesn’t need to be anything fancy, I use a piece of ply or timber (I do have a big sliding tile saw but the grinder is much more convenient for a few cuts). dont scrimp on the blades tho, cheap ones often run out of true and chip edges much easier

Omg! Yes. Made me cringe

+1 on the above

Good afternoon and welcome, I wouldn’t count on the insulation and air tightness being too great, and definitely allow for a good deal of improvement in these areas. that aside, good luck, have fun and keep us posted

Good afternoon and welcome

As above, forget what you can do on the inside, first look to sort the problem, then fix the effect

Absolutely, the sushi mats made the build viable

Some lintels only attain the given strength when they have the recommended masonary on them. Single course pre stressed concrete lintels are usually composite and so are some steel versions. not a problem using without the marinara as ling as the loads above are relatively low compared to the maximum given

No problem unless it's a composite lintel as they are designed and manufactured to work in conjunction with the stated number of masonry courses above. Plain tensioned concrete are fine.

What are you using it for?

Haha, that’s the excuse I get ?