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About amavadia

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  1. All sorted. Thanks for all the replies.
  2. Yep this is the plan. To try and get the pipes at 150. I reckon I might be able to do it without removing tiles though.
  3. Its a full set not just the bar and ive already bought it
  4. The pipes are 145mm centres unfortunately. Thats the whole problem here otherwise I wouldnt have needed to use the cranked pieces and the wall mounts would have been fine connecting straight to the bar. So will try and make some more play in the pipes to spread them by another 5mm and then just use the wall mounts
  5. I have spare tiles but I wouldn't dare take them off. 600 x 600 porcelain. Will give it a go to just drill small holes to the side of the existing hole and try and enlarge it. Still have access to the back so worse case ill have to cut a section of pipe out and redo it if I end up damaging it. Wish I had realised the alignment had to be spot on. damit. At least I have learnt something i guess.
  6. Thanks for the posts and offer of the bits. If I used a nut and got rid of the wall plates the whole shower would be being held on by the pipes which im not sure is a good idea, it has the bar and then a rider bar with shower head on top too. I think tomorrow I am going to try do a bit of precision drilling from the front through the tile to widen the hole in the tile. Ive put a block of wood, drilled holes the size of the pipes and put them through in the wall because I hadn't realised that you are meant to leave some play. I also thought these cranked bits would fit on the front to resolve any final adjustments needed with the wall mounts. Lucky I haven't boarded the other side of the wall but it is still going to be a bit tricky.
  7. Hi need some help fitting a shower bar. 150 centres but the pipes are 145. ive got wall mounts and the shower cake with cranked connectors. But the smaller end of the crank does not fit on the wall mounts. Cant seem to find any crank connectors which have the larger thread on both ends either. moving pipes would be almost impossible now without damaging. any ideas?
  8. Haha thanks. I think I fall into the 'novice perfectionist' category. This was my first tiling/grouting/bathroom job. Good thing I had lots of extra tiles
  9. I would definitely rather go 3 braces with this than having to rip the kitchen ceiling out underneath later. Hopefully its good enough not to have to rely on warranty. The boards are completely waterproof. Even under the cement layer its foam so nothing getting through it. I was quite thorough with the taping/water proofing too. Same thing as Wedi, but Nassboard brand which came with a Larsen tanking kit.
  10. Its a wetroom former tray made of cement coated foam. Walls have foam core tile backer boards. Siliconed where the wall pieces meet the tray, waterproof tape on edges, primed, tanked, tiled and grouted on all edges too so just on final step to silicone internal edges. Not got the screen in yet so will silicone behind the shower screen profile too.
  11. Thanks. Its my first attempt and its a wetroom above a kitchen so really just wanted to do everything possible i can do prevent any leaks. Will be siliconing the edge where the floor of the wet area meets the walls too which is highest risk.
  12. Ive tilled bathroom with matt finish porcelain tiles. About to silicone the internal corners but just wanted to know what solvent to use to clean the edges with that wont damage/discolour. Read acetone is good but also damages grout? Ive used Mapei coloured grout. Also put some grout in the internal corners and will be siliconing on top. Light silver grey colour grout and the tiles are light grey if it makes any difference
  13. Just bought this one. Hopefully short enough to do the job. Its click clack but might see if there is a way to remove the mechanism.
  14. I was thinking about cutting one off but doesn't it need to be completely square at the bottom to make a seal with the socket on the bottle trap?