amavadia

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  1. Its not new. Yes I saw that bit but also thought it was a bit weird since the current one is 5" and fits in the spigot. Also most websites I've seen selling it say it takes a 125mm flue: https://www.stovesareus.co.uk/firefox-5-gas-stove.html
  2. Does anyone know how to find the flue liner requirements are for a gas stove in terms of diameter? The black vitreous flue which came with the stove is 5" but I can't see anything in the installers manual linked above which talks about the size of the liner. Since the vitreous is 5" should the flue be 5" as well or does it need to be bigger? Thanks
  3. I think that would need to be one unlucky person if they inhaled a single fibre and died from it. Clearly it’s dangerous and needs to be dealt with precaution but we breath fibres in all the time... break pads from old cars for example. I saw someone drilling into the soffits of their house on my road which are asbestos. I told them and they carried on doing it so again that is in the air. Clearly if abatement wasn’t so expensive I would have had it removed but the quotes I’ve had are in the thousands for a day’s work.
  4. Yes it is chrysotile asbestos. The tiles come off relatively easily and can be disposed of at my local tip. But the problem is the cutback which is on there solid.
  5. That’s easy to say when you personally are not the one who would have to fork out thousands of pounds. This thread is about which is the safer option, whether to leave or remove the tiles.
  6. In situations where there are black asbestos tiles stuck down with asbestos cutback, is it better to screed over both the tiles and cutback with self levelling compound or remove the tiles first and screed over the cutback only? Will self levelling even adhere to the shiney surface of the vinyl tiles?
  7. It goes under the wall and looks like they have put a clay conduit. Although not sure if that spans the whole horizontal run as I can’t see it. i tried feeding the 70cm piece of pipe I have in along side the black and it went in pretty easily. Might be worth just buying a roll and see how far it goes along side? Unhelpfully placed stopcock so I would have to break the concrete panel which Severn Trent fitted around it.
  8. I’ve cleared some more space. I think enough to put a fitting on the end. But I also dug down inside the clay tube and got to the point where the pipe goes into its horizontal run to the front of the house. There seems to be some play in it and I can move it back and forth slightly (didn’t try too much) but it got me thinking about replacing it. But not sure if I actually attempted it it would be that straight forward and the pipe would just come out and allow me to feed a new one attached to the back of it? Other thing is at the front of the house where it connects to the severn Trent stopcock is concreted over and just in front of the door. Does anyone know how much they would charge to connect up a replacement pipe? Thanks
  9. Probably live there a couple of years I'd say but apart from the break which was caused by me putting it under unreasonable strain, the rest of what I can see of the pipe is in decent condition. Also the line from the outside stopcock to the point where it comes up inside the house goes pretty much under the whole length of a load bearing wall. Tomorrow I will try dig some more workspace. Another problem though is it is not coming up completely vertically so even if I put a 90 degree on it, the connecting horizontal piece will be sloping downwards.
  10. Yeah it’s a 21mm black . I will need to put an elbow in there. First thought was to deepen the channel but just wondering if there are other options first
  11. Nightmare! I was working on moving the main internal stopcock about 30cm back so it will come up inside a pipe box/pillar I am going to make. I dug out a channel and was planning on lying the existing pipe down, not realising that it was coming up almost vertically from the ground so by pressing it flat I was making it bend almost 90 degrees. It looked like it was coming out the ground at about 45 degrees. First few times I pressed it down it was ok. Bit of resistance but I thought it just needed time to adjust to the new bend. Connected my elbow, new mdpe and new stop cock. Was about to cement it in and pressed it down once more to fit a jig to keep it down and I dent it go. So now I have a snapped off water pipe coming up in a clay tube. Any suggestions for a solution? I’ve dug out and exposed some of it in the tube to see a bit more. Thanks!
  12. Wouldn't a tape melt near the opening under the fireplace?
  13. In terms of the finish I think I'm decided on trying to cast the concrete block. If it doesn't turn out so good ill just tile it. I came across this thread where someone has cast a block. I really like the black colour before it dries. I will just try add lots of colour powder. http://www.likeacupoftea.com/our-dyed-concrete-hearth-lessons-learned/ The only open question I still have is about the type of conduit used. Researching online, it doesn't seem to be copper being in contact with concrete which is the problem, more when there is steel rebar/mesh, there is a galvanic corrosion happening between the two metals. I don't think I can avoid putting some reinforcement inside. Clearly can't use a plastic sleeving under a stove. Yesterday's gas safe engineer said to just use a larger copper pipe but not sure about it personally. I will contact some fireplace installation places and see what they say I guess.
  14. Had a gas safe engineer round today. He said just put a piece of 22mm copper pipe in and he will feed an 8mm copper through it 🤷‍♂️
  15. Which part? Using 8mm instead of 15, or running through a conduit? I dont have anyone lined lined up to do the gas work yet.