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Found 7 results

  1. Hi All My first post here, hope you're all well Just after some advice pls. I'm preparing a base for a wooden (cedar cladded) insulated garden room (4.2 m by 3.02 m) So far we have cleaned and levelled the area and put down 4 inches of Mot, we plan to put down a 4 inch concrete base However I'm getting mixed reports and opinions from tradesman / friends etc.. that 4 inches is either enough or its not enough and I should go for a 6 inch with re-bar The room will contain me, a small sofa, desk, some music equipment, you know typical man cave / office type set up Not being an expert in this areas you can imagine I'm a bit undecided and worried I'll make the wrong decision. I just wondered if anyone has done a similar project and if a 4 or 6 inch base is best etc..? Many thanks in advance :)
  2. Hey, I am building a new home with basement. My structural engineer has specified a 400mm thick sl ab, and the slab reinforcement is 100% H20 rebar. This is to support a 5 bed property over ground, 1st, 2nd floor, meaning the basement walls are structural. I assumed that the slab would have been mainly made up of steel mesh, and H20 starter bars for the walls. Instead, over a 240m2 base there will be 8259 linear meters of H20 top and bottom. The wall starter bars are specified H25. Does this H20 and H25 sound overkill? £16k + vat worth of steel in the slab alone. If you know groundworks well, I would be interested in your thoughts Thanks
  3. Hi all, I have today attempted my first concrete slab. It isn't a big room about 2.75m by 3.5m . We are replacing a suspended timber floor so the walls are already built which made things difficult. It was a day full of choice language and despite the best efforts of myself and the ministry of fun we have made a bit of a mess. The result is a slab that rises and falls by up to about 15mm in places. I am thinking that I could go over it with a thin screed or self levelling compound but don't know if this is a good or bad idea. the slab will be covered with 150mm of celotex and a final screed so won't be seen but i'll always know that it isn't level. Is there a product that I can use on a newly laid slab to level it and cover imperfections. Your help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  4. Anybody have any comments on this build up of my ground floor (we've taken out the original timber vented subfloor of a 1930s semi and are going to have a concrete slab instead). Any tweaks or improvements? (I don't have any more space, so any increase in insulation would have to be balanced out by a decrease in something else.)
  5. I've had a concrete slab poored today and just found out from the contractor that he did the following. 100mm 40mm to dust compacted with a a dpm (visqueen thick guage) layed straight on top lapping up onto the inner skin of blockwork. HE DID NOT USE A BLINDING OF SAND instead he layed another layer of dmp on top of the insulation but not lapping the wall. Then he poored the 100mm concrete slab. In short Crusher run compacted Dpm lapping inner skin Insulation Dpm Concrete Am i likely to suffer damp issues? Fortunately its quite dry round with sandy conditions and great drainage. Sorry to be long winded in my description.
  6. Hi everyone, Thanks a lot for having me I value your feedback! The other question I have been wondering (and need to decide on before applying for planning) is about the groundwork. The structural report says that it's sound and doesn't need underpinning. However, the barn is quite short. I think it's 4m tall, not at the top of the gable - I couldn't get my tape measure up there. It used to have a first floor and has the holes where the beams used to go. We'll be wanting to put the first floor back in. I had originally thought I would raise the first floor so there's more head room downstairs, and upstairs will be fine as we'll have it open to the ridge inside. However, as we'll be hoping to put on an extension, and will need to be doing some insulation and slab laying in the main barn anyway, would it be better to lower the whole floor level? If you're already doing groundwork, how much extra would I expect to pay if I wanted to lower it 30cm or something? I think I am leaning towards just raising the first floor level. I personally don't mind the walls being a bit lower than the top of my head, as there's so much extra space that will be open from keeping the roof open. But worried I am missing a trick that might not cost much more!
  7. Admins, please move thread to another area if this isn't the best area! Okay, I had contractor to come and dig up my old slab (100mm) and then proceed to remove a further 375 of soil. They then barrowed back in 150-160mm of type 1. They proceeded to compact it with their wacker which IMHO was too small for the job. But they kept going....and of course they didn't get to the required 100mm compacted level. I spoke to the contractor and he said he would be back today (early!!!) and would come back with a decent whacker that they use for roads. I thought they'd use a roller for that, not a whacker but who am I to say what's best.... Anyway, looks like the £250 retainer that I kept back wasn't enough to get him back to finish the job off. The bar steward has not showed up and is not answering my calls. Should have retained a bigger amount but I stupidly trusted the man. And the two barrows and rake they left behind aren't going to make up for things. I could be livid, but I'm fairly used to it in this country that homeowners get shafted like this. It's a way of life. Just look at the TV shows that rely on these 'cowboy' trades. And trying to take things up via the small claims court is just not worth the effort and expense. So rather than get angry about it, I'd like to channel any negative thoughts into getting the job finished. And rather than get someone else in, I'll probably tackle the 88sqm myself. The small whacker they had was clearly not up to the task of crushing the 160mm down to 100mm. Think they used a 450mm plate (83kg). What do I need to get this done? In most places I will need to go down another 40-50mm. Would this baby do the job? http://www.jewson.co.uk/tool-hire/compaction/plate-compactors/products/2530/reversible-plate-compactor-500mm/ Do-able in a day? I need to go down another 50mm as otherwise I won't get sufficient EPS under the new floor slab.And that was the whole flamin' point in going down do deep in the first place Mr R. BlXXXMAA of AXXXFXXW, you !"£%^&*()_+ !!!!!!! Can't wait to write up my review on MyBuilder...... red pen = excavation level, white marker = 100mm compaction level, red marker = top of hardcore bloody uneven too!! not really clear, but room centres are a lot higher too. Ideally I don't want to remove any hardcore and then compact and then add a bit back in, compact...... Advice, options? No replies on cowboy tactics, my gulliibility etc pls. That's another thread-starter....