markc

Do you have a meter or voltage tester? Need to determine which wire is live feed and which goes to light

@saveasteading Another thought. the spec for a sedum roof should have had a very special roof coveringthat resists the roots. However it is not UV resistant, so be careful to see the whole designthrough if you make changes. That’s very good point.

A thin layer of well rounded pebbles should have no effect on the membrane and would protect if from dropped stones or flying debris etc. the layer would not need to be deep or heavy to break up the rainfall

Forgot to mention …. Don’t forget to puff the holes out. Dust is the scourge of resin anchoring systems

@Moonshine, gothe bit extra and get rid of the lead pipe. Take MDPE straight in.

Pack with washers or steel plate and grout after to tidy up. resin anchors make life much easier than sleeve anchors. put the piece in place and mark through the holes. drill holes (generally 2mm oversize than threaded rod diameter). put piece back in place. Squeeze resin into hole and spin the threaded rod in with reverse rotation … this forces the resin inwards and fills all cavities. leave to set then tighten nuts. this is much easier than trying to set the rods and then put the piece into place.

It could be asbestos! Often referred to as insulation board.

No need for a special visit. If sparky has done 1st fix and majority of 2nd.

Good question and I don’t think there is a definitive answer. hob connection is really no different (in fact easier) than fitting a plug or socket so kitchen fitters often make the connections just as the delivery and install guys are not sparkles either.

I used to do a lot of work with a couple of truss manufacturers and the joints in the photos would have not left the premises. If the joints cannot be pulled together then the piece was cut wrong or the design/detailing doesn’t work. Hedgehog plates are amazing as long as the material is close fitting.

Builds like this are really difficult to “see” on a drawing and a few millimetres can make a massive difference to the room. make a mock-up with sheets of anything sat on boxes or trestles etc. Then move them around a bit, stand back, walk around, adjust size and repeat until it feels right

90’s will be fine

Drilling a couple of 15mm holes (not next to each other) in the top cord won’t be detrimental. If you want to be sure and have access then put a few extra screws in either of the holes to distribute the load into flooring and or bottom of stud wall.

Blackjack is good. im guessing your builder is an old schooler who is new to all this modern way of doing things and used the mortar to tie-in the upstand. Easy enough to rake the mortar out, insert the DPM and point up again

Hello and welcome, if your council is releasing plots you are lucky. loads of info available by searching on here, and if you can’t find the answer feel free to ask.

Needs to be reasonably level but the blinding is there to level it up

Good rule of thumb is stamping your foot, if you leave a decent print then could do with more compaction. A stake can still be hammered into compacted ground. The idea is to get rid of any voids and prevent further settlement.

@canalsiderenovation probably standard 1/2 inch BSP thread. swap for a copper fitting and you will save quite a bit of height

You could try buffing them out with car polish ... t-cut or better still a similar colour colour-cut etc. They should have been laying boards down for standing on.

Saying that some "professionals" make a hash! Omg yes. I bought this house about 5 years ago with an electrical safety cert. While redoing the kitchen and cellar I found the entire house sockets were on two open ended radials. Took me ages to locate the other ends of the rings that had been cut when the extension was built some years before

I'm assuming that is looking from the top. Any idea what thread the tank is? Quite possible you can get a short metal fitting instead of the plastic and save some height

Very nice Llangollen is gorgeous in the sun

Rings beat public transport any day

If possible, clean out some of the debris and slide more material into the gap overlapping the original where possible. As an added bit of protection you could also flood liquid membrane into the joints or voids

Demolition or removal of an entire structure is dealt differently by planning. You are only removing an extension so it’s home improvement and not classed as demolition. completely agree with @Olf comment regarding electrics etc.