markc

Good morning and welcome, do you have any drawings or sketches so we can see a bit clearer? a disability build can ease planning through but does not give someone a free pass.

And a pair of stilsons as a tap wrench so when it get hold the jaws will release and let go lol

@zoothorn, no problem, first use a large stone of piece of brick to block the cavity, then use smaller rubble to fill up the hole. A strong sand/cement mortar will be fine as render on the crumbly surface, just work it in a bit and it will stabilise the block.

Is there just one contractor doing forward and reverse? There were some odd centre off units that had a push pull action so they did do forward and reverse but would also bounce to momentarily energise the other direction like an insta brake effect

Legalities of septic tanks etc aside, and to go back to your original question - as an easy fix/tidy up, mix up some mortar, fill the open cavities with stones, broken brick etc. Push in more mortar to fill the gaps. After that has started to harden, tidy up with more mortar (like plastering)

Running a lathe in reverse is good for manual boring so you can see the cut on the inside but away from you without leaning over the tool post

Could be separate pull-in and run windings? But then there would be a spare aux contact to cut the pull-in circuit. plus not usual on smaller machines, even old ones

All sound advice. And if you wish to reassure yourself - take a broken block out from below and you won’t worry about them falling again.

Yes it is possible for you and pretty straight forward. It doesn’t need took pretty with straight joints. Good clean up, scraping or pressure washer so you can see what you are dealing with, then cut away the bad stuff and replace

Fabricated and fitted loads of them in the past. Nothing mystical about them just needs a bit of thought and a few measurements. there is a previous thread with examples and sketches etc. But can’t remember the name of it.

You can get away with almost zero fall as long as the valley/gutter is large enough to handle the amount of water without overflowing. steeper gradients get rid of the water faster and therefore require less volume

+1 on what @Digger1 said. Save money by getting good deals, less waste and saving unproductive labour.

Also be wary of cheap flexi’s and tight radii. The pan in my garage (fitted by previous owner) is too close for a decent flexi bend and I can only get the corcertina type in … last a couple of years and then split. The armadillo type flexis are much tougher but larger bend radii.

Agree with all of the above, there is no magical gadget that will crawl around the cavity doing what the brickies should have done in the first place,they either didn’t bother or didn’t understand what and how insulation works. why is taking down not an option? It is the easiest and cheapest solution.

Definitely, I’ve stopped using my cast iron pans and now got some cheapie frying pans from Amazon, much easier and less cringe when putting them down

First thing to ask yourself - is it penetrating damp or damp trying to get out? removing render can be laborious, expensive and end up with a horrible looking brick that looks like it’s be hit by a 1000 pigeon Sh1ts. sand blasting cleans it up well but then the brickwork can stilllook bad if it’s spalled and crumbling. also render that is loose and cracking allows water behind and then it’s trapped.

Very little noise transmitted through a wall tie, if you want to improve then use a longer tie and place at an angle, not as strong but does allow each wall skin to flex without directly pushing the other skin. No idea how much low level noise will transmit in a domestic wall but in Stadia etc. The sound pressure has a big impact on the structure

Makita impact driver is awesome, I’m still using Dewalt drills but as they wear out I will be switching over to Makita, I also love my Makita 165mm circ saw … brilliant for flooring and trimming doors

Hmmm, really not sure, maybe @nod can help

Sounds like they could be rust spots but to reoccurs there must be assitional moisture, any chance of a small leak above?

You missed Tension Control Bolts (TCB’s) and oh the pain of HSFG’s with indicating washers ?

Absolutely! I had one run a red light, straight into the side of me and then start ranting about drivers not looking out for bikes

Oh look kids, another Curtious cyclist. … ?

From many years of building steel structures, marine and railway engineering, the washer always goes under the part you will turn (additional washer if other side is covering a slot. bolts always go upwards - if a nut should happen to come off the bolt will drop out and be noticeable. never heard of lubricating nylocs as they are made to be used once.

No personal experience but any system is only as good as what is underneath it, can you give any more details of make up to give us an idea of what you are doing and wanting to achieve.