markc

Unless the existing floor is already well insulated you really need to dig it out and start again

In an ideal world you could put in a cavity tray, but where? Ducts/flues are often within a couple of inches of the ceiling or soffit so the cavity tray would go directly under the joists? That’s not good. A full course of blocks down would probably be too low so you end up splitting coursing. I’ll stick to boring the hole afterwards and sleeping it.

Not really, you could go to a concrete place and get it loose from the silo but it’s messy, dusty and one big lump if it gets damp.

As above, these mini dumpers are very toy-like and ok for scooping a bit of sand and soil etc. But they will not dig.

In the sketch the opening trimmer would take the majority of load, the side wall supports the turn and then this takes the majority of load for the remaining flight with the top assisting, in reality the loads are minimal compared to a heavy cabinet etc.

As above, get on with it … ohh, just don’t chew or eat it.

Had to look several times to see it, I thought that was next door

Nothing wrong with your proposal, a set of stairs does not add much load. Some local strengthening is likely but nothing complicated. Most of the work will be in cutting the hole and associated trimming etc.

For horizontal or overhead it can be vacuum attached or an anchor put into the part you will be getting rid of anyway. You could do hand held but 600mm a lot of times would be murder

Never seen them, that would be easier

Diamond core drill does not bother what it’s going through, we have gone straight through concrete, rebar, steel beams etc.

Not a chain, core drill bits. Chain drilling is drilling a series of holes just touching each other to effectively cut a slot

Diamond sawing leaves a very nice edge but obviously can’t do the corners. hire a diamond core rig, or get someone in and it will fly through 600mm. As you are going to trim anyway then say 50mm diameter holes around the edge and then push the block out

Do you need a perfect cut? If not you could chain drill with diamond core drill. no vibration so no disturbance of the masonry

Good point! Never noticed that. how dare you question design by wanting frivolous things like access etc. Pffft

As a test engineer you get certain ‘free passes’ as you are not there doing work using the equipment as a safeguard. If there was an attachment point I would use it anyway while inspecting. the 3 year harness ‘rule’ is still banded around but that is not written in stone for all applications. Painter and decorator would have a contaminated harness and the chemical attack could weaken so a timely disposal is recommended. a harness which is clean, dry and in good order can be used for many years. harness inspection is nothing more than a visual looking for cuts, abrasions or pulled stitching etc., literally 10 minutes - the paperwork takes longer. too many scare tactics around inspection and testing requirements. your safe system of work could be supervision and verbal warning that the person is getting too close to the edge. Look at the work being done, what could go wrong, likely hood of it happening, what measures can be taken to reduce the risk … often the additional measures are more of a risk than the task itself so doing nothing is the safest option.

Hi @zoothorn, Understood markc thanks. I do have a heck of alot of cavity to fill. Hmm.. I'm wondering if Onoff's idea might be easier, just for me.. you don’t need to fill the whole cavity, just block the top of the open ones where smaller stones would fall to the bottom.

Hi, I have just been looking and I can only see corcertina type connectors. a plumber mate gave me one that was made up of rings and the inside was smooth as opposed to the saw tooth corcertina ones. I can’t remember seeing a name on it but it was very well made. I’m a bit stumped now, maybe one of the plumbers on here can advise of a good make?

Omg! That’s unbelievable

Run the soft parallel to the roof line … like an gable end would be. of wait, just re looked at your sketch … hmmm, so the end soffits will be level, not following the roofline, and I feel the extra deep facia at the front may look out of place. not helping much here am I. ?

Most people and many retailers/installers do not appreciate how PV performance can be effected. I hate the look of added-on PV panels so often notice how badly some of them are. Recently saw panels on a roof that was entirely shaded by a very big tree.

All of the above is sound advice, here’s where you are probably going to hate me: reading between the lines I get the feeling the real problem is that they got their planning in first and you are feeling a bit miffed, in which case take a step back, deep breaths and logical head back on. it is reasonable for people to want to make the most of their properties, and had you applied for planning you wouldn’t like someone to object to your plans and ideas. that aside. Any addition to a building is likely to have an adverse effect on neighbouring properties, but planners are people, speak to them with your concerns.

If you provide a fall arrest or restraint anchor point then it must be tested, marked and regularly inspected. Restraint is much simpler to design and install as the test load is much lower. Inspection is once a year and would take 10 minutes. If you provide a harness and land yard that prevents someone going over the edge then you have covered yourself. the portable units are heavy and must be inspected before each use, and if left in place add a large localised load to the roof usually causing it to deflect (permanently). how often will the skylights be cleaned? … be honest here. Roofers and window cleaners are used to going onto flat roofs etc. And I guarantee they will not use the anchor point, either fixed or portable.

As there is a property already and presumably water and electricity then it’s a simple matter to connect the caravan with temporary supplies from the existing