PeterW

incorrect on most counts but hey, that’s your opinion. 145sqm 3 bed, brick and block with UFH. 300 litre UVC (no loft tanks), 9kW ASHP and stats set to 19°C and there is a post heater in the MVHR and all that costs around £120 / month in coldest part of winter last year on Bulb E7 tariff. That was for the period when it was -5°C and sometimes down to -8°C last winter. For an ASHP to not work requires temperatures below -16°C for the older units and -22°C for the newer gases. Newer gases can produce 56°C water temperatures, and can still hit CoP of 2.5. I think you’re not using the term Luddite correctly - that would be someone who doesn’t move on with the times and prefers old technology … bit like 1980’s combi boilers .. They do - usually when badly sited, and undersized or incorrect type. As said above, the variable speed or inverter drive ones are much better. Sound can be reflected very oddly by walls and buildings, soft landscaping can soon change the noise levels.

slight misnomer here about duct sizes as tbh they are only larger to keep the noise down as airflow increases. The bigger Lossnay units can move more air but become more inefficient. The only “good” thing about most of them is they have the enpalthy heat exchangers so you don’t need any drain with them. I have a 35RX5-E and it’s pretty good - I’ve added a post heater but only for upstairs rooms, and that’s pretty effective. If I was doing it again ..? I’d check the Blauberg range out as they do post heaters (technically pre heaters) as a plug in option to their MVHR.

What board ..? Insulation ..? 20mm is ok as long as it’s compacted and levelled and not just chucked down.

LLH only has a vent at one end on most and two pairs of connections top and bottom. Can’t see how it would have an issue upside down..? @Nickfromwales..?

Says who..?? Sand blinding over the concrete then build an insulation upstand.

Most people have never heard of Carrier but they have been making AC units since the 1950’s and their production dwarfs the numbers made by Mitsubishi. There are plenty of very good units out there and if your installer is the one to install and maintain it then why not go with their suggestion ..?? The issue is always one of parts supply so ask about after sales and maintenance.

Nice idea - that MDF needs a couple of good coats of decent eggshell or gloss to stop it absorbing moisture though.

Is this a requirement from building control ..? 25mm rebar is a little …. Extreme ..?? Should be able to use 12mm tbh as it’s only there for tension and differential movement that rarely happens.

Welcome. Your statement makes no sense - what’s the floor build up from ground upward ..?? Self Levelling is only used normally to make up the top surface prior to final finish such as tiles or other flooring, 40mm below insulation is calling out for 40mm more insulation ..!!

Gaskets are air tight. Duct tape round the joint on the outside also stops it moving in the future.

There is a reason ..! You don’t want to be using 6mm down unless you want an impervious surface as it compacts down like armour.

depends..? Under what and for what purpose ..??

ok so that wouldn’t be on any plans or tender so your contractor is within his rights to say no. I would too ..!! Porcelain isn’t good at elastic / tensile bends so when you cut it then you create stress and it will break. At 40mm slices at that length there is no way of on site cutting that so you would need it to be water jetted. I’d expect about £15 a cut, so you’re probably at £5-600 for cutting but would add 50% for breakages so two tiles, cutting etc would be £15-1800. Redesign it.

Make it bigger if possible - if you can get a 300 or 350 with a coil rather than a PHE you have no moving parts either.

Be careful..!!! @joe90 is referring to the wooden cill, not the concrete cill ..!! If that is staying in then it is opening only you need to measure.

Get the UPVC company to provide a stub cill. This is shorter than an ordinary cill and will sit on top of the concrete one. I would always try and use a cill, without it you need to get a window with what is called face drains which will add to the price. How big is the window…?

Will most likely be one of these - decothane is the product range https://www.promain.co.uk/liquid-plastics-sikalastic-618.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwi9-HBhACEiwAPzUhHL2_xDsinGkoqe1YNWFU210qLtt2EzXTTDMcycZaCic3ZUocDbVSzxoCBc0QAvD_BwE

Don’t hold back @Nickfromwales…

They will quote much less if you give them a list and also open an account and show them the size of the orders. I tend to use a mix of JTM and Toolstation of all places for Hep2O as they get very close on price and also have good availability.

Flow - you keep it hot

Ahhh yes it’s a Hong Weng Chinese Plug Company socket … Weatrer Proof..??

Ok but you have to also look at air leakage as you haven’t got a perfectly sealed load cell, so you will have voids and also other leakage routes and won’t create the lift you are anticipating. You’re also only using self load, so haven’t included any additional static load or additional downforce such as fixings. And you can’t measure 0.025mm in a building.

They don’t and can’t move and all you end up with is an increase in air pressure in the cell using a straight line PVT calculation.

2372mm doesn’t work any sort of unit though - 2380mm is 28 bricks high

These may work but bluebirds are the best. They are in boxes in my local MKM to buy individually but make sure they price them for you as trade https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-frame-ties-25-pack/31633?_requestid=456467