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About hendriQ

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  1. We weren't expecting to have to have so many FD30 doors, but the BCO has (rightly) pointed out that we do need them, as a fire curtain we were originally going to install won't work (for various reasons). I need to use 2040mm high doors, but I'm struggling to find widths that fit our openings. For example, one opening is 2040 by 813, but we will need to shave the door either side by 3mm making it 2040 by 807. The closest standard sized FD30 door I can find is 2040 by 826, but this would mean shaving 9.5mm off each side, and I'm not sure that is doable as the recommendation seems to be to only shave up to 6mm off each edge. Anyone know how fast and hard that 6mm rule is? The other opening we need is 2040 by 710 which would require shaving a 726 wide standard door down by 11mm each side. An added complexity is that we would like decorative doors, not plain blanks.
  2. Afraid not. Good luck with that though, hopefully someone here will have some they can spare.
  3. Thanks, but I'm not sure this is relevant to my original question which was about doors, not windows. When I have probed the literature on this it is clear that the standards for windows are not the same for doors. The interpretative document you refer to here is this Secured by Design document, which explains at page 65 that for doors: "A doorset which conforms to BS EN 1627 RC3 would additionally be expected to conform to the following to meet the requirements of PAS 24:  Annex A Security hardware and cylinder test and assessment.  Cylinders falling within the scope of EN 1303 shall meet key-related security (digit 7) grade 5 and resistance to drilling security grade 2." It is perhaps not the clearest of drafting, but to my mind (as an English language teacher), what that is saying is that: doorsets that conform to RC3 do not automatically conform to PAS24; However, if an RC3 certified doorset can also be tested to pass those two further tests, then it will also conform to PAS 24 in other words PAS24 is more stringent thant RC3 because it has two additional tests that need to be passed which do not form part of the RC3 test.
  4. Ordered a rather expensive front door. Prior to ordering I told the supplier that I wanted PS24. They said that being a European company they don't do PS24 (that being a British standard) but they can offer European equivalent. I gullibly said yes. Supplier has been very slow in general. Several months after I signed off on the post survey drawings, I get an email telling me that they design I want can't be done with 5 point multipoint locking and i can either change the design or accept 3 point locking instead. I ask how that will affect the security of the door. They say it won't make a difference because it's a standard level of security. I then drill into this pointing out i never orders a standard security and find out that what they are offering is RC2. I point out that RC2 is inferior to RC3 and that even RC3 isn't as good as PS24. I cite the guidance published by Secured by Design which explains the additional measures that are required for RC3 doors so that they comply with PS24 and also the definitions of RC2 and RC3: RC2 Occasional burglar uses basic burglary tools Increased protection for normal housing security 3 - 15 mins RC3 Experienced burglar uses heavy duty drilling and hammering tools High level of security for the premises in view of increased risk of burglary 5 - 20 mins I point out that they got their knickers in a fuddle by confusing windows with doors (in the window world, PS24 is indeed equivalent to RC2 or RC3 (can't remember which, but not in the door world). They claim that they only ever offered "similar to" PS24, not equivalence. I say bollox. Do people agree I'm entitled to my money back? Even if the description of the door was "similar to PS24" as opposed to "equivalent to", isn't a RC2 door sufficiently inferior to RC3 that it is in no way similar to PS24. It's like saying a Gold rated D lock and a Bronze rated D lock are similar because they are both D locks. Or a detached house and a terraced house are both similar because they are both houses. For contextual reference, it is abundantly clear that the door has not been manufactured, so the only loss the company might sustain from their negligence is the lost time in conning me.
  5. That's good to know. Given me a bit more confidence in agreeing with the builder's recommendation to bond. What bonding adhesive do you recommend? We're glueing the base of the engineered flooring to 5.5mm plywood that we are laying over the underfloor heating, so wood to wood. The flooring manufacturer has only said "We recommend applying primer before gluing the planks; Use glue that doesn’t contain water". Any thoughts?
  6. @Stones nice finish on that floor. I'm curious about your comment: "I have to say I'm still a bit unsure of the underfoot feeling that a bonded floor gives. I'm still finding the experience a little alien, compared to floating floors we have had in the past." We will be installing herringbone engineered boards onto a screed floor in the New Year, and the supplier has also recommended we bond it directly to the screed apparently to improve responsiveness to the UFH and possibly for other reasons I don't understand. What does it feel like to walk on? Have you got used to it now, or do you still prefer the feel of a floated floor?
  7. https://intuboilingwatertaps.co.uk/product/4our-matt-black-apex-4-1-swan-instant-boiling-water-tap/ Though it was £100 less yesterday.
  8. Ended up buying an Intu in their black friday deal. Will report back and how it performs.
  9. Thanks, very helpful. What combi boiler do you have and what is its modulation range. Do you also have a low loss header?
  10. An issue came up today though is that not sure how to set up a circuit for the two towel rads we're having. Here are the different factors we're juggling: The UFH will need to be kept fairly low temp, because our engineered floor cannot be exposed to a subfloor that is hotter than 27 degrees. So I'm guessing we will run the UFH at 30C - though not sure how to calculate what temp to give 27? And presumably different rules apply for heating screed on a ground floor than for heating a non-screed system on the first and second floors. The hot water cylinder I understand needs to be at 60 degrees minimum to avoid legionella. Our plumber thinks this is a waste of energy, but I don't see a way around it, although I know some people just heat it once every so often to sterilse, but either way the temp of the UVC will be much higher than the temp sent to the manifolds won't it? Then what to do about the two towel rads. Presumably these are fine at 40 to 45 degrees, but that is higher than the UFH and lower than the UVC. Or can each UFH manifold lower the temperature of the water it is getting from the boiler? We are not having buffer tanks for the UFH because we've gone for a broad range modulating boiler and a low loss header instead.
  11. That's very reassuring, thank you. It's amazing that you have a faster line of communication to CVC than I do, even though I'm a paying customer!
  12. That would be great, thank you! I have checked and I have enough space to remove the 510mm filter, but i pretty much don't have a mm more than that. Given the unit is 560mm deep in total, I'm just concerned that if a large part inside the unit ever needs to be removed for a service or replacement, I won't be able to. Presumably eventually the motor or heat exchanger needs servicing/replacing.
  13. @Nickfromwales as you're familiar with these machines, I wonder if you would do me a MASSIVE favour and let me know what is the minimum space required in front of a flair brink 400 to change filters and service it? The filters sold on ventilation land are 510mm long so is it just that ones needs enough space to open the door and pull out the filter, as shown in the space image or are there other servicing that need to be done which would need more space than that 510mm depth in front of the machine?
  14. Actually plumber recommended me to upgrade to the next size up softener because we were already on the limit for the size we had gone for and by upgrading the inlet and outlet on the softener would be 28mm instead of 22mm, so he thought this would eliminate any restriction to flow that the 22mm would have caused. We're paying a fortune to upgrade the TW connection so a bit more money for a larger capacity softener makes sense, although still shocked how much these things cost. I've been looking at Harveys and Kinetico. Any other brands worth considering? Interesting thread. I've contributed to it with my twopence - which is probably not worth very much. Not too worried about this as there are no bedrooms adjoining the pump room it is going in, as in the loft space it will just be the softener, the MVHR and the UVC. If it is noisy, I guess i can always box it in, but I doubt it will be.