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hendriQ

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  1. This looks too good to be true. Does it spread the wifi magic in all directions (including behind the wall you install it in) or will it only travel away from the wall?
  2. I can handle a drill, a screw driver and even a hack saw, but apart from that my DIY skills are non-existant. The most I’ve been able to build with my own two hands was a wood store with a felt roof. However, I do remember seeing an Irish bloke on tv demo-ing a similar tool and it did make it look much easier. Do you really think it’s possible for a complete novice to use this tool to lay decent bricks?
  3. I guess I could complain to Mapei, but still very odd. There also seems to be a bit of variability with parts of the grout looking whiter than other parts. I know @nod's advice is to re-grout, but I wonder if before doing that I should experiment spending £10 on one of these grout paints made by Mapei though I note that it says it's for internal use, the data sheet stating "Do not use for external applications or on surfaces subjected to continuous immersion (swimming pools, basins, etc.)." Not really sure why given that even if it rains once or twice a day in England, that's got to be a similar exposure to what that a tile would have in the shower?
  4. If you are serious and can get to the job in London, please PM me.
  5. I just got quoted over £2000 to build a small brick barbecue consisting of 360 bricks. Foundations are already in place and even the first course has already been done. I’m supplying the bricks. £2200. Madness.
  6. Thanks @nod but are you saying you wouldn’t even consider the products that can be applied onto the grout to change their colour? I’m also pissed off with Mapei for not making it clear on their instructions that hard water could cause this whitening of the grout.
  7. Went to tiling supply shop, got the little strips of Mapei colours from their display (the ones made of their actual grout) and picked one that very closely matched my tile, a nice medium grey colour. Had previously told the tiler on an earlier tiling job done a few months ago on same site that it was important he use distilled water because we live in a very hard water area and the hardness of tap water lightens the grout colour. Must have forgotten to tell the tiler this time. Grout has come out much lighter than expected. Really contrasts with the tile, whereas it was meant to match it. Really not the look I wanted at all. Two options: re-grout or use a grout colouring pen. What are the pros and cons of each? Really upset as this was a large and expensive tiling job that is really prominent on our house and it looks awful.
  8. There is an alternative, which is to design in ceiling features that can conceal where the pipes go under the steals. We’ve done this in our master bedroom and created a nice effect in that we have a sort of decorative cornice all around our room, but it is much bigger than a regular cornice. Not only does this allow the ducts to run through that perimeter area (and past the steel) but it also offers opportunities for LED lighting in the recess and a concealed curtain rail as well. Create a really nice architectural effect.
  9. @nod thanks for your help. Do you think it matters if we exceed the recommended maximum depth of that Ardex screed I linked to by 20% of so? Maximum depth is 75mm and we need to lay it to 90mm or even a few mm more than that.
  10. That's very helpful. Thanks. We have to keep the external screed dry until the microcement topping is applied, so a fast drying flow screed is going to help, as otherwise we will need to have a tent up in the garden for 5 months!
  11. Thanks @nod But is there any disadvantage to the quick drying one? If not, why doesn't everybody use them? I'm planning on using this externally, as a sub-base for a micro-cement topping. At the moment we have an external cement slab that was poured several months ago on top of hard-core. The plan is to put a DPC membrane on top of the slab, then pour a 100mm of screed on top of that and then the microcement topping. But I don't know which screed to choose. The quick drying stuff just seems to good to be true.
  12. I'm confused by the general rule that is oft quoted here that screed dries at 1 day per 1mm, so a 50mm thick screed would take 50 days, and after that one counts 2mm per day, so a 70mm thick screed would take 90 days. That is a very long time. If that's the case, what is the downside of using something like this: https://ardex.co.uk/product/ardex-a-29/ which appears to dry much much faster?
  13. We weren't expecting to have to have so many FD30 doors, but the BCO has (rightly) pointed out that we do need them, as a fire curtain we were originally going to install won't work (for various reasons). I need to use 2040mm high doors, but I'm struggling to find widths that fit our openings. For example, one opening is 2040 by 813, but we will need to shave the door either side by 3mm making it 2040 by 807. The closest standard sized FD30 door I can find is 2040 by 826, but this would mean shaving 9.5mm off each side, and I'm not sure that is doable as the recommendation seems to be to only shave up to 6mm off each edge. Anyone know how fast and hard that 6mm rule is? The other opening we need is 2040 by 710 which would require shaving a 726 wide standard door down by 11mm each side. An added complexity is that we would like decorative doors, not plain blanks.
  14. Afraid not. Good luck with that though, hopefully someone here will have some they can spare.
  15. Thanks, but I'm not sure this is relevant to my original question which was about doors, not windows. When I have probed the literature on this it is clear that the standards for windows are not the same for doors. The interpretative document you refer to here is this Secured by Design document, which explains at page 65 that for doors: "A doorset which conforms to BS EN 1627 RC3 would additionally be expected to conform to the following to meet the requirements of PAS 24:  Annex A Security hardware and cylinder test and assessment.  Cylinders falling within the scope of EN 1303 shall meet key-related security (digit 7) grade 5 and resistance to drilling security grade 2." It is perhaps not the clearest of drafting, but to my mind (as an English language teacher), what that is saying is that: doorsets that conform to RC3 do not automatically conform to PAS24; However, if an RC3 certified doorset can also be tested to pass those two further tests, then it will also conform to PAS 24 in other words PAS24 is more stringent thant RC3 because it has two additional tests that need to be passed which do not form part of the RC3 test.
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