PeterW

3 course is standard but these - if they are supporting the roof - will need to be “garage door type” or XL cavity type. I would in this instance use steel - I’d also go for a full length steel end to end and pin it either side of each opening with resin bolts.

Make sure you get a decent cowl fitted that both keeps the birds out and also the water out.

Diamond floor grinder on its edge would cut that but not sure how you would hold it at that angle. Some concrete floor saws can be set at angles but they aren’t cheap to hire and it’s only normally 5-10° you can move them by. What about a concrete wall chaser ..?? https://vevor.co.uk/products/wall-chaser-concrete-saw-electric-groove-cutting-machine-slotter-125mm-saw-blade

Are the lintels taking the load from the roof or just spanning a gap and taking the brickwork load only ..?

Can you not get full fill at 200mm in there if you have a full breather membrane on the outside ..?

What’s on the other side of the wall..? I would want to get 25mm acoustic fibre (regs requirement) and possibly use sound block board too - so I would use 200mm

That won’t work. ASHP will find the path of least resistance

Don’t do it…!!!! Fit the pump and the blending valve from the outset. Do not rely on the ASHP to blend the UFH - it just ain’t worth it. You also have no control of the flow as when the zones start to close down you will be restricting the flow on the ASHP and you will get ASHP flow errors. You need to make sure you have a decent bypass valve too.

It won’t squash out - you need it to be wet to bond otherwise it will just sit on the mortar and not bond to it and stay loose. You’ll lose some down the sides but if you’re worried just wrap some cardboard around the tops first.

Not enough insulation under there for UFH and possibly borderline on building regs depending on the P/A ratio.

Standard Coax but if you run sky then they may want shotgun cable. CAT5 or CAT6

That document is 10 years old - yes they were noisier 10 years ago ! They were also less efficient and more likely to be non inverter drive. Worth having a quick look though this (other brands are available ..!) https://ultraquietecodan.co.uk

Is this Pax stuff ..? A lot was stuck on the Ever Given.

Got one and it’s the best thing I’ve ever bought ..!! They are AEG - very well built too. Even on the pyro setting the glass doesn’t get warm on the outside but it is noisy as the fans run full chat. it’s this one https://www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-partners-jlbios643-built-in-single-electric-oven-a-energy-rating-stainless-steel/p5113535

Frame ties Skin the build with OSB and breather membrane, 25-50mm cavity then the stone. Frame ties screwed to the OSB and preferably the timber frame also.

Sorry but the flashing is your responsibility. They are separate as they depend on slate / tile / profile so it’s why they aren’t bundled. Supply for me is that you supply everything - install is install all items provided by the client.

All depends what you’ve asked for - I’ve done them with stuff down to 50mm as they are clusters or like @Mulberry View, they want to use them as proof for there being a continuous habitat available. But if it is for any work in a TPO area, or if for planning purposes then they don’t need to be listed if they are less than 75mm at 1.5m above ground level.

If the boards are being painted black then Puraflex is good but you can’t paint it.

Only tend to use them in wet room floors.

Ok so this is where a £50 solicitors letter pays dividends. I have had someone state that the letter we provided in a court pack was not the same as they received, despite it being sent registered post and signed for. A letter from a recognised third party makes that all the more impossible to be struck out and also shows you’re serious.

need to stop the air movement behind the wall boards. Can be done but needs patience. Get a decent foam gun and some low expansion foam. Now drill a row of 10mm holes about 150mm down from the ceiling and same up from the floor about 150mm apart and then slowly squirt foam into each hole. It’s tedious but go slow as the foam needs to form a continuous band top and bottom. Do the same at any corners and doors and you’ll reduce the risks of air going behind the boards. Not perfect but unless the plasterer did full top and bottom beads of adhesive you’ll have gaps.

Only way to fix that is get up there and scrape it clean, jet wash it then paint the whole thing with one of the Desmapol type products from end to end and up onto the top of the gutter. You would be best plugging any deep gaps with epoxy concrete to make it a bit smoother but it should be fine as long as it’s not full of big holes.

No-one has said anything of the sort ..!! All the responses above give facts, house sizes and run costs. How about you quote the facts on your experience and it becomes more balanced ..?? @Moonshine ASHP isn’t for every scenario especially where there are high heat loads due to poor insulation etc. A lot of social housing had them fitted where previously they had storage heaters and the tenants saw significant increases in costs as they went from using electricity off peak to peak for heating when the ASHP was used during the day as a standard heating system with rads. It is most ideally suited to UFH as you can create a thermal store type load using the floor slab overnight (huge storage heater in effect) but rads do work. You get a lot of emotive type statements around the technology (look at this article for example https://utilityweek.co.uk/concerns-raised-over-headlong-rush-to-air-source-heat-pumps/) where if you read the first few paragraphs you find it’s not entirely true : “They have high maintenance costs; they have a lot of moving parts that can go wrong; they are external; they make a lot of noise,” OK - so, they aren’t high maintenance as there is very little to maintain. Cleaning the coils takes 5 minutes with an air line and that’s about it. Unlike a fuel boiler there are no combustion products to deal with so nothing to corrode. They have around the same or less number of moving parts to a gas boiler - modern gas boilers are complex beasts and have a lot of parts that are constantly high temperature cycled that causes fatigue. They are external is an odd statement and not sure why it’s a problem …! And they make “a lot” of noise…. A WB 30i Combi has a sound rating of 50dB, the Mitsubishi Ecodan 8.5kW has a sound power rating of 58dB and a sound pressure of 45dB at 1m…. There are a lot of badly installed heat pumps that do cause issues and it is this that causes most of the problems. Just by siting a heat pump at 90 degrees to a wall for example rather than facing a neighbours wall in a narrow gap between two houses can substantially reduce noise and there are other basic install issues that cause problems further down the line such as not using flexible hoses or under sizing the units that will create a lot noiser installation both internally and externally.

Dig the smallest hole possible to get the post in, and lean it back by about 10mm at the top on a 4ft post. Then pack the front with an offcut of brick or tile and then back fill with a semi- dry mix of 2 sand, 2 small gravel and 1 cement and ram it in, building up all round. Add a little bit of water and leave it for 24 hours. Then come back and hang the gates ..!

Factually incorrect. A radiator size is related to two factors - heat loss and delta-T. Heat loss is the same irrespective of the radiator size, as it relates to room size, shape, insulation levels and windows. Delta-T is the difference between the water temperature and the desired room temperature. All new radiators under BS-EN 442 are sized at dT50°C assuming the flow is 70°C and the desired room temperature is 20°C. Taking an example room heat loss of 885W (2720 BTU), this would require the following : Using a flow temp of 70°C (std Gas/Oil) then the radiator would need to be something like a 500 x 1000 Type 11 Single Rad Using a flow temperature of 47°C (ASHP) the Correction Factor of 0.43 would require an equivalent output of 2058W (6325 BTU) which would require a 500 x 1200 Type 22 Double. That’s 200mm longer, and 25mm deeper than a single rad. Not 3 or 4 times the size. Let’s stick to facts and not conjecture and guesswork please.