PeterW

Who’s BCO..?? If it is from 3 properties then it is the Water Co problem to resolve.

I refer to my previous point - I think they have not told BCO and WaterCo that there is sewage works as part of their extension. As such, the cost and issues are all theirs not yours.

That isn’t correct as a boiler even fully modulated down will produce far more heat than the UFH can absorb with a single zone open and calling for heat. That’s not going to work as the buffer pump will be pushing against closing valves and will cause issues. You may want to move that pump to between the boiler and the buffer unless it has a built in pump

Thanks ..! Thought it looked familiar ..! Downside is that is a thermal store so tbh it is pretty useless at 55°c from an ASHP unless they have really cracked the 70°C barrier somehow with their “innovative” design of the ASHP which apparently has no resistive back up. @Balraj Appadu any reason for choosing this over a standard setup ..?

+1 to what he said..! Never seen a Red tank in the flesh and they are all plastic from the description - all the blurb I’ve ever got my hands on has been artists impression and computer generated.

Even more reason to go 25mm and then use a PRV on the inlet down to 4.5 bar then use a control set to get to 3 bar for the UVC

Yep can make that up with a couple of coats of bonding or even sand and cement render

Take photos and clearly mark a Google map with the location and direction and try and make them triangular so the point is the location and the “base” of the triangle the width / scope of the photo so they can see what you’ve taken.

What dimensions are the box…? Is this just lead line a ply box or does it need building out from rafters ..?

Would pick the most optimum line between them both and then build out with bonding coat.

Is this 6kW on a single inverter with no optimisation ..? If so, really poor design as that will not give you a decent peak figure especially at 19° What was its output calculated at..?

Electric Combi is a complete no unless you have very deep pockets. It will chew electric like it is going out of fashion. 2m height is very low - why the low ceiling ..? And do you have BRegs/planning for any of this ..?

why are you trying to re-invent the wheel ..?? Sewage pump systems are sized in the building regs by the number of occupants / bathrooms, and how much they can store in the event of pump failure. You can’t get round this, so just go to a supplier and say you want a 4 bed suitable sewage pumping system, send them the delivery address and dig the hole…

So you should have the bayonet hose running to a proper bayonet connector that will have a 1/2” threaded connection. This goes to a 15mm solder connection and 15mm copper through the wall, then to a regulator. Reg then connects by flexible to the bottles.

Rebuild the wall in 140mm blocks at their cost. Will remove the issue with the founds.

How are you finishing either side of the wall ..? Wet plaster ..?

Just had something very similar on a property near me and the builder went through a lateral drain whilst digging founds and didn’t spot it, and pouring the foundation they ended up with concrete in the drains. Cost £18,000 to resolve… Bigger concern is that your neighbour is digging over or near a lateral drain or sewer. If that is the case they need a build over agreement and your neighbour will need to do that at their cost not yours. Minimum will be repair and lintels, worst case is they need to move the drain or re-lay it.

I got just off some paving where some screws had been left out in the rain using this stuff https://www.screwfix.com/p/zep-calcium-lime-rust-stain-remover-1ltr/8679F

why..?? We’ve had these since the 1900’s and never had issues so why start now ..??

Wouldn’t worry - unless there is a downstream full blockage you won’t fill a stack. Downstairs WCs will be the first to show a problem.

blender pumps will pull 7m from a buffer. Just have 2 connections and use tees - the boiler pump will circulate as needed. When the manifolds are calling for heat you will get little flow through the buffer.

Yep that would work. Also worth considering using moisture resistant PB as it’s not much more in the big scheme of things

I’d suggest both ..! Use a roofing type membrane stapled to the outer frame before boarding out to cover the insulation and stop anything getting into it, and then a plastic membrane on the inside. It is one place where the foil bubble wrap type products can add a little insulation and vapour control and are easy to install. Just remember to tape the joints.

Welcome do lots of research - not only on their designs but parent company, and do some searching before you make any decisions.

That’s not entirely correct. You can use polypropylene but it has to be BS / EN marked to the correct spec. What is sold as solvent weld pipe is not sometimes true ABS so you need to check carefully. @Olf why the UFH manifold drain ..? Never used one, it’s a hosepipe job normally ..!