PeterW

Birtley do a thermally broken lintel - have you checked with them …? eLintels do them if you want a price https://www.elintels.co.uk/supatherm-lintel-st150

Ok so you’re probably now split zoning everything … and gas is cheaper than ASHP for heating to a point so need to be careful here.

Ok so you want a hybrid heating system. So you need to look at why, as running UFH at 40°C or less is the sweet spot in terms of performance. Not sure - unless you’ve got Rads upstairs - then a high temp supply from a gas boiler becomes irrelevant.

Sorry misread this - are you saying you are using a gas combi for DHW and floor heating and just the ASHP for floor cooling..? Or are you saying you will use the combi for DHW and the ASHP for heating / cooling ..?

Yes so you don’t put cold water through your DHW

Two 3-way diverter valves.

Don’t forget there are rules in Part M that allow for reductions in corridors etc due to obstructions such as radiators and other items. Nothing stopping a door frame being one of these.

So looks like he’s not balanced the cold off the control set so your mixers will have varying pressure. Can’t see the rest of the tundish set up but that’s going to need some work to get it into any sort of approved state.

What is that tundish the output from ..? If it is an unvented cylinder then the pipe from the tundish needs to be at least 300mm before any bend, and has to be of a type that can take 100°C water.

Yep I have a really nice one that does this and tend to use PictureThis for a lot of unusual plants.

Leaf position is incorrect for knotweed - it grows from alternate nodes on either side. Also the leaf colouring is unusual for knotweed as it is ordinarily green with red veins. That looks more like Himalayan Honeysuckle as @DavidFrancis said.

Pack of 10 x 6mm x 1 Metre Stainless Steel HELICAL Bars for Repairing Masonry Walls https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07FGVP59R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BMPR7KH25NRTD50ME5F5

You can - no issue if you do but watch the tog rating on the carpets and underlay Yes - just size them using a calculator that allows you to change deltaT from 50°C to 30°C and you wont be far wrong You’re obviously made of money …. Look up WundaTrade who can get you a much better deal Yep absolutely. Quieter than an oil boiler burner ..! Get your insulation and air tightness sorted and your heat requirement becomes less.

S’Fix kit is expensive. Buy a pack of these Buy a couple of tubes of this Clean all the cracks with a diamond disk on a small grinder, wash and brush out the cracks then put the helical bar in the crack. Try not to cut the bars if possible and you need every other bed repaired. Set them all up then inject the resin as you only get one chance at it. Don’t worry about filling the whole gap with resin, good depth around the bars and when it’s gone off just point the cracks with a 4:1 mortar.

Looks like a hollow block - use a toggle bolt to get behind it into the cavity. Has you licencing officer told you that is ok as a location ..? Local one here wouldn’t pass that.

I’m always amazed when “experts” tell you that you’re going to get damp coming into a building through an air gap, a beam and block floor and then 100mm of impervious insulation and finally into a screed later … Unless the floor is very uneven, the sand shouldn’t be required but should be on top of the beam and block and below the membrane. In reality if you sweep and clean the block surface there will be no issue. Should be : B&B DPM Insulation (with edge insulation) Slip membrane UFH Pipes Screed

Not sure what you looked at but their product is very good - fitted 10 of their 3G ones and they are as good if not better for UPVC than a lot of the competition at 50% more expensive.

No - the reason is the leach field is a secondary treatment location unlike a soakaway for a treatment tank which releases water of much higher quality.

No issue at all. Ideally you may want to use electric UFH mats as they can be used year round and have lower build up but not difficult if planned well.

Sorry meant the socket box screw into the rail not vice versa

Yes but needs planning - you ideally want to go into the side and with the flow, not tee it into the top. Has this not all been done for your building regs drawings by the architect or AT..??

To check if it’s M3.5 or M3 just remove a face plate screw from a light switch and try it carefully in the hole. They are M3.5.

That’s a direct connection distance you’re referring to. This is the min which is 450mm

Your stack rest bends will dictate the initial depth as will Part H as there is a minimum depth between WC outlet and the bottom of the bend.

If you want it for legal purposes then get the surveyor to map it with a GPS marker and then transpose this to the floor with pegs. He will be able to do it within 30cm.