PeterW

External ..? Or internal ..? Either way, not sure why you are looking for crack reinforcement as there are no shear loads that will cause issues. Has the SEng specified it ..?

Why will you..?? Are you using a lintel or a steel, and what’s the height and loading ..??

Depends on the timber - some need to be glued, others float.

No but you don’t need to notch the joists, you just feed it through the web and tack back up. Insulate the bends with climaflex and insulate under the pipes well with fibre insulation. Easier and quicker than messing about with the overboard systems.

Last one we laid was done using 4.8 x 2.4m sheets of mesh from memory and bays were proabably a foot larger than the mesh. Between each bay were 3 lengths of 1/2” rebar about 3ft long, half covered with a length of hosepipe to allow one end to move. Think it’s still there and no cracks - must be at least 10 years old now and that’s a farm track taking machinery.

What lengths are you laying this in as over about 5-6m then it will crack. If you do it “properly” then you need to put expansion gaps in between the slabs, if you want to do it quicker then I would shutter and lay every other bay, then use a standard DPC as a slip between each bay and lay the second set. What is the finish specified on the surface ..?

They will need to carefully clean the surface with acetone to ensure the new resin bonds to the old resin before the glass is scattered. It’s not just something they can roller over the top.

Other issue can be that the steel deflection causes unsightly gaps as on a beam with a 10mm deflection over 4m, you would need to leave 5mm fitting gap so at the supported ends you could have up to 15mm to cover and fill - that’s a big gap..! Increasing the steel size - either by height or weight - could reduce that to 2-3mm.

So a steel will have a deflection value under load and most SEng will use standard values. That’s normally L/360 which means for a 3.6m beam it can be up to 10mm. That can cause issues with jamming of bifolds so you can ask for a smaller deflection to resolve this.

Did you ask the SEng for no more than 3mm deflection ..?

Bifolds in place of what ..? You may need a non material amendment to your planning if the openings have changed. Also, you’ll need the SEng to check the lintel and steel sizes for the openings as bifolds have very tight tolerances. TBH if you just want light, add a couple of full length floor to ceiling windows - 1/10th of the price and much more practical. Bifolds are very overrated …

Glazing chisel is the quickest way to get the beads out but be careful as the big units can be quite heavy. Longest beads out first then work the others free.

Cut the wall with a multi tool and recess it half way and it will close up the back gap.

That would affect my OCD when you put a 6 pointed hex nut on a design with 4 points on it … Think you need to get some square dome nuts machined too …

Bit like walk on glazing ….

So why not just go for an XHD Steel lintel (or a steel with an 8mm bottom welded plate) and then put a standard Naylor concrete on the front face ..? Will stop it bending and also dead easy to render straight on to.

Depends on the requirement but you can get them fitted with brackets to take a render board. Also depends on the outer leaf load How big is the opening ..?

looks spot on @zoothorn.! Whats the next job then ..? Finish the shed or are we on with the balcony ..?

Not sure that’s entirely correct unless you’re talking insulation and then board ..? If you go with insulated PB then it’s dot and dab back to the wall or mechanically fixed.

Run. Away. Now. It doesn’t work. It needs to be detailed very carefully as otherwise it’s a foil tent. You’ll need double battens and board too - bet you find insulated plasterboard is as cheap in volume from CCF and easier to install. Go look at Seconds & Co, see what they have and work from there. Bonding PIR to solid walls is a no brainer too.

Nope.. this is also due to the stupid rules Wickes have brought in about their staff and manual handling of anything 25kg or over. If it can’t be picked by one person, you can’t have it ..

nope - think about a runner with a feature varnished bullnose step ..? The runner with underlay will be more than 10-12mm thick, the bullnose will have nothing yet they will “appear” the same. BCO won’t be getting a tape measure out ..!

13mm on a 13 step flight is 1mm per step. Unlikely you can get that accuracy anyway so you are not going to get a rework at much better tolerance so I doubt 1/2” will be noticed by the BCO and it really isn’t worth it.

Cavity closer will be 2-3mm at most. You want a decent fire door frame in there - and also make it an 838mm door too. An FD30 trenched frame for a larger door is 906mm wide, so with 5mm either side you would be well to put a 920mm structural opening in and also go with 145mm deep frame too.

Timber frame ..??