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richo106

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  1. Thanks all for the reply We are happy with the windows we have chosen and I am guessing it will need to be a complete unit so might look slightly daft if the doors and windows either side don't match above/rest of the house Typically as well the colour we want/chosen for the windows and doors is called 'Claystone' which annoyingly hasn't got a RAL colour so hard to colour match I have attached our 2 options to show what i mean All help and advice appreciated
  2. Hi All Is there a max height we can have for a front door, the way the architect has designed it. The window/door provider we have been speaking too says the max height is 2100 so we would need a panel above. Is there anywhere that does bespoke door sizes, approx 2.4m? Or is that not a thing? Many Thanks
  3. That sounds exactly what it’s like to me! This will be our ‘forever’ home so i want to do it properly so I will be removing it. Thanks for the reply Would internal walls be built off this too or are they likely to have their own proper footings? I will be keeping 2 of the walls and building up from them as block walls to support roof structure Thanks again
  4. Hi All We are starting our bungalow renovations in the next couple of months and currently ripping out. We currently have joists and floorboard suspended floor. The plan was to rip up and replace with new slab, 200mm insulation, ufh pipes and 50mm screed etc. However when I lifted some floor boards the void below varies from 170mm to 500mm (to top of blues) below the floorboards look likes there is a solid concrete floor/slab. What would people do in this situation, it seems a waste to rip it and start again but I am not sure what options I have. Obviously the slab underneath isn’t flat as it follows the slope of the ground and I don’t know how thick etc it is all help/advice/information greatly appreciated
  5. Haha, the one quoted was smart visioglide plus. Could anyone recommend manufacturers they have used for their triple glazed sliding doors? Thanks again
  6. Hi All I have been getting some quotes regarding our windows, doors and sliding doors The supplier has said that our 6m sliding door would have to be double glazed due to size and weight and was unsure if the gearing would take the weight. I just wondered if this is standard for a sliding door of this size? We are focussed on good energy efficiency/ air tightness but not passivehaus standard.
  7. Hi All I am now in the process of deciding on what insulation to go with etc I was planning to have 200mm PIR under my screed but the general feeling is EPS is more cost effective so could be going for 300mm EPS. My question is jabfloor EPS70 suitable or does it need to be EPS100? my next query is cavity wall insulation, the cavity on the new extension/floor can only be 100mm wide. At the minute I am looking to use Celotex Thermaclass 21 90mm cavity wall insulation but is there any other options to consider? EPS platinum beads? many thanks
  8. Hi I am planning our renovation starting in the next couple of months or so I started another topic regarding my new concrete floor make up, currently my property is joisted and floor boarded with a decent sized void beneath (need to take measurements once flooring is up) The planned make up is: 200mm Type 1 MOT 50mm Sand Blinding 150mm Concrete slab 200mm PIR insulation UFH Pipes 50mm Screed So total depth around 650mm, there is 2 DPM layers also Some comments and research have suggested their could be better ways to do this but i can't find a definitive answer I would really appreciate some advice/information and some potential floor make ups, We will be using wet UFH with ASHP for heating throughout Thanks in advance
  9. Regarding the concrete slab thickness that was just specified by structural engineer, i was surprised they said 150mm The screed will liquid pumped screed is 50mm still too thin? Yes I am there is not much need to dig close to the existing walls, however the foundations are quite deep..9 bricks and 8in concrete base Another concern is that as the screed will only be 50mm over 200mm of PIR will this feel bouncy at all or will it feel solid? Planning to tile to whole ground potentially
  10. I just thought slab insulation then screed for UFH was a standard practice
  11. Thanks for this Conor, I have just been look at insulation and prices (off the internet) etc... My ground floor area is 120m2 so its either 42 sheets single layer or 84 sheets double layer. These are my findings: PIR 100mm * 2 (GA4100) - 84 sheets - £45.98 a sheet - Total: £3862.32 200mm * 1 (XR4200) - 42 sheets - £106.19 a sheet - Total: £4460 EPS - White - Jablite Jabfloor 70 300mm * 1 - 42 sheets - £66.01 a sheet - Total: £2772.42 200mm * 2 - 84 sheets - £44 a sheet - Total: £3696.56 EPS - Grey - Jablite Jabfloor 70 High Performance 300mm * 1 - 42 sheets - £108.50 a sheet - Total: £4557 200mm * 2 - 84 sheets - £72.33 a sheet - Total: £6076 I have done this and i am still non the wiser which way to go, suppose it depends how much needs to dug up below the floor or added to etc As always would welcome any advice/information on this from people with more experience than me is this Thanks again
  12. Sorry yes there is going to be two DPM layers. What is the benefit of EPS over PIR? I am guessing cost. How much EPS would I need to match 200mm PIR, is there anywhere I could calculate this? Thanks again
  13. Hi all We are putting a new concrete floor in our existing bungalow, the existing bungalow has a suspended joist/floorboard floor currently. The new floor make up is: 200mm Type 1 MOT 50mm Sand Blinding 150mm Concrete slab 200mm PIR insulation 50mm Screed So total depth around 650mm Due the slight incline in our land, one end of the bungalow is around 400mm deep below the floor but the other end is 800mm To make up the short fall of the depth can we simply add more MOT to build up the layer flat? so it leaves 450mm depth up to the top of the blues? All advice and information greatly appreciated Thanks
  14. OK Thanks, so even if i install ducting my back fill has to be stone free around the ducting? Many Thanks
  15. Hi All I am having to re-route my supply cable to the house to avoid the new extension etc I have had western power out and i have now dug the trench and got some 50mm ducting for them to pull the cable through when they come to do the work I have some of the electrical beware tape also My question is do i need to lay sand around the ducting or is that just if the cable wasn't ducting? Can i just back fill the trench with what i dug out? It goes in the middle of my gravel drive way which will be landscaped etc next year when the build is done, the cable is 500mm down so it wont be interferred with but I want to make sure its done properly Many Thanks
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