PeterW

Quick one… Main board in property is all RCBO and radial 40A to a secondary board in the internal garage. Secondary board has RCBs feeding socket, lights etc in the garage plus a dedicated 16A feeding an external power to a shed/greenhouse 15m away via 3 core 2.5mm SWA terminated at an adaptable box. Initially the shed was only having a double socket internally however been asked to also put lights in there. Do I… spur off the power and use a fused spur to power the lights, or just put a small CU in the shed and give everything it’s own circuit…? Or is it worth not exporting the earth, protecting the armouring at the garage end and then installing a rod at the shed with an RCD at that point ..? @ProDave any thoughts ..??

yes

Please don’t use abrasives … Go and buy a big tin of Multisolve - it will remove the residue.

Can you move the WC or change the door to a pocket door ..??

UFH isn’t cheap to install so it’s just part of the costs. The system should already have an expansion vessel somewhere already ..?

Rubi 250mm is £60 or so normally ..?? https://www.buybrandtools.com/acatalog/Diamond_Blades_Marcrist_Rubi.html#aRT_2d30949

Yep nail on with copper nails

Start with 100 litres which should be fine.

Ring shank galvanised for all timber work.

Roofing nails for ..? Battens, yep. Tiles, use aluminum nails.

So a buffer isn’t that difficult - you just add it into the heating circuit. It is just a tank in the system that the heating runs into one pair of tappings and the UFH runs off another pair. When you swap to an ASHP then you just add it to a third set of tappings. Adding an immersion to this isn’t a problem if you want backup. How are you planning on doing DHW ..?

What is there now ..? A 3kW Willis won’t replace a 25kW boiler so if you’re doing this in stages why not just hook the UFH to the existing heat source via a buffer if needed ..?

It isn’t and it will cause cold spots. Run it as three loops of 80m, it will be an extra £20 on the manifold cost. Yes it is too big to be one circuit but not one zone. See above.

K5 is available in 40mm https://www.insulationshop.co/40mm_kooltherm_k5_external_wall_kingspan_1200mm_x_400mm.html

MKM do a self build account and they also do decent pricing when they know you want quantity. Get a full list sorted, go meet the branch director over a coffee and show them your plans. I have accounts with MKM, TP and Buildbase and probably put 90% of my stuff through MKM as they out price and out deliver the others.

Why are you using foundation blocks ..? And have you bought them already ..?? Use standard 7N medium blocks, 215x100 and you need to just cut the first one to take out your camber or roughness in the foundation. So I would cut the first block to 150mm, lay it on a 25mm bed and get it all square and level. 3 standard courses of block will give you 850mm total, last two courses laid in std engineering’s gives you the 1m. Weak mix back fill as you go will be fine. If you’re not sure about cutting the blocks lengthways then lay 140mm blocks on flat on a fatter bed assuming you have 450mm width to play with.

If there is a basin on the same run then just add an anti syphon trap to that which will negate the need for an AAV on the bath if they use the same connection.

Who are your current insurers @WWilts..? Most if not all of the major insurers have a householder minor works clause in their policies and it defines what they mean. I think your insurers may have got the wrong end of the stick here. Also beware of this : That could be deemed cancellation by the insurer and that may go on the insurance database as such and you will need to declare you have had a policy cancelled. Home Protect do insurance with cover up to £20k works not notifiable so I would expect this would work for you assuming you don’t need higher cover. I think that a discussion with your insurer is the first stage, then insure the plot for the build.

Usually a lead or bent tin flashing over the top and front. Wood stores are also better built the “wrong” way so the back is higher than the front, you then hide the back edge in your case assuming it’s up against something.

Yes - you can split the plot for insurance purposes and that’s what needs to happen here. Fence it off, give it an address of “Land adjacent to 42 Railway Cuttings” and then crack on.

I think you’ve asked the wrong question of your insurers. Sequence should be : - Split plot and fence off. - Insure plot as self build plot. - demolition of garage and new extension Doing that most insurers would see the demo/extension on your land and plot. It sounds like your insurers think you want them to insure the self build on the same policy which they will not do.

All standard stuff then. You need to know a few bits of detail to order them but U.K. Lintels do them so why not bundle all your steelwork up for a price https://uklintels.com/product-range/windposts/

6.5m or so with a slab side onto a very large (12x12m) room.

What’s the spec from the SEng..? Last ones we did were inserted into the outer skin on some 12m block walls and they were just 150mm box section from memory with welded end plates and welded tabs. These were bolted to the founds and then built in. They are nothing special for a steel fabricator to add to the steel order I expect. Not sure where you’re located but ACS do them in standard sizes

Then don’t use lightweights…?? Crack mesh won’t fix that issue.