PeterW

Got too many components in there. Just install two decent manifolds complete with blending valves and circulation pumps. Buffer can be a standard 2 port buffer that just is tee’d into the flow and return. Needs a thermostat on the buffer - if Newark are making from scratch then ask them to put pockets at 1/3rd and 2/3rds down the tank and you can sort the call for heat

Peel or Protect ..? It is 80 sheets in a pack - any chance you can share a pack with someone as you will get better prices.

No don’t. 32mm is only used in exceptional circumstances for runs over 100m and where pressure is low so you need an accumulator. ST and AW do not specify the insulation level - it just says “insulated” in the specs. Nitrile rubber is more flexible and around 25% better insulator but unless there are multiple air bricks and a flow of air below the floor you will not have a frost risk. 25mm will do 46.8l/min at 75% velocity but it’s unlikely you will have the pressure to do that.

Use 25mm MDPE and sleeve it with 28x19 armaflex pushed over the top of it without splitting it. Fits easily inside 110mm UPVC

Use 110mm underground drainage with a rest bend and bring it up through the floor. If it ever needs to be replaced then it’s dead simple.

What thickness is the insulation in that floor build up ..?

Tend to use Utopia as they don’t look cheap and are very well made.

Looks like Weinerberger Profile Dry ridge - you still need the membrane lapped up and over the ridge.

only over a certain volume which is massively less than a normal house uses.

AX Pro aren’t certified to any UK recognised standard. I would always use TexecomPro, used them a few times and tbh they are simple to install.

I would use 2 or 3 coats of good quality Matt floor varnish - easily done using a cheap sweeping brush and a washing up bowl or a roller on a pole. Also worth buying some 4x 1/2 planed to use as a skirting board and seal this to the boards as it will stop leaks running under the edges. Other option is garage floor paint which is equally as good and similar price to varnish.

plumber doesn’t understand electrolysis. It happens when 2 dissimilar metals are connected by a electrolyte - they don’t need to be touching. Inhibitor doesn’t smell, but sulphates of iron do. I think this is more about the water going into the system to start with and not enough inhibitor rather than too much. Who marked that up..? Item marked as a “pressure valve” is an automatic air bleed valve.

Order drawerline units and then remove the tops carefully with a decent sharp fine tooth saw. You will need to reinforce the top of the frames with the bars you remove. Also worth stabilising the top of the chipboard with some epoxy resin or quick set araldite.

Can you not find the studs and mark them, then put a 30mm sheet of Kingspan, 9mm OSB and then screw through into the existing siding and studding ..? Then a coat of garage roof type GRP..? Cover the whole side and you’ve insulated the whole thing and no messing around ..?

Yes as if it is gypsum based it is nasty stuff that will absorb water and also can cause lifting and swelling of the ground. Lime plaster is not an issue in this sort of situation.

5 boards plus a toe board on the outside edge, and 5 plus toe boards in and out of working near existing glazing.

Lead rolls are pointless - just buy a bag of clips and forget about it forever. You can point up but consider finding a pale cream external silicone in that case as it’s more stable.

16 zones seems a lot - how have you worked that out ..? And another for WundaTrade - manifolds and pumps are top notch, pipe is all much of a muchness. if you’re doing it yourself then buy the auto balancing actuators and save the grief of trying to sort it.

Unlikely to be enforceable. There is usually a period for which it refers - 5 years after the end of the last property in the development being built is the norm. It’s there so you don’t spoil the street scene etc whilst they are trying to build more houses and sell them.

Prefer flush mounted and only use unswitched sockets as have a nice grid of marked up isolators in a walk in larder

If this is for split system then you need 8/10mm soft annealed copper refrigeration pipe which must be properly insulated using nitrile rubber insulation on both circuits if you’re burying it in walls. Some split systems use smaller bore for supply and slightly larger for return so you probably would be better leaving ducts and access points available to retrofit.

Yes - Magic Man

If the roof moves that much during a storm you’re going to have bigger issues than lead tearing ..! I use lead clips and leadmate rather than mortar these days to remove any issues with minor movement cracking mortar.

You can use a concrete but make it at least a 140mm deep as you will need a minimum of 100mm bearing end and then an “upright” section to stop it sliding. Top will be more of an issue and may need brickwork building up first where the hashed area is and allowing to set. … and that picture is sideways ..!!! Rotate 90 degrees anti-clockwise to see what I mean ..!

Kwikstage is probably the best for home use. You can get it second hand and can pretty much sell it on for what you pay for it. Buy new battens though as they are what keeps you from practicing amateur free fall …