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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    Eeeeuuuwwww..!! Soggy chipboard ...???
  2. PeterW
    Its not a crazy idea and your "better" option is to create the strength in the steel. For example you are looking at a bending moment - steel works best in section so you could find that using a T shaped section that is clad above and below the flange is a better approach - 50x15 tee made of 5mm stainless would be pretty strong and is an off the shelf product. Yes, you would show a 5mm stainless edge but that could be a feature.
  3. PeterW
    It's only D.C. - welding Aluminium needs A.C. otherwise you get poor welds. Find a local welder who can do it - shouldn't cost much.
  4. PeterW

    oak slabs

    PeterW replied to vfrdave's topic in General Joinery

    Yep but the shipping would be eye watering ..!! Search for drtimber at Mumby on eBay - has some fantastic stuff but won't ship so you would need to sort that. 5-600mm will be a real challenge for both finding it and also keeping it flat - you would be better using 200mm and a decent frame.
  5. PeterW
    Nope - usually they go cold when they can't balance the hot / cold differential. Most will take 85c hot input and still manage 42c out, and boilers tend to max out about 75c anyway.
  6. PeterW
    Mark is pretty good - they do what you want rather than work within a set boundary. Never heard the 1m rule either - did they give you a schematic as the load valve needs to be correctly placed on the stove or it becomes irrelevant. ESBE do some nice ones and also do pump stations with built in load valves and temp gauges too. Will find a link.
  7. PeterW
    So do you own it now ..?? If it was freehold with vacant possession then they don't own what is inside unless it's connected to the main at which point they need a wayleave anyway..! If they have signed and sealed the deal, you can remove the kit at their cost if you give them 28 days notice to either do it or you will.
  8. PeterW
    You can get gabions in a variety of widths - we have some 600mm high ones that are only 300mm wide and they aren't going anywhere as they are wired together. Use them to "hide" all the old bricks etc and just face with stone. Weren't expensive either.
  9. PeterW
    Looks nice ..!! Wonder how much they will charge you for a water connection ......
  10. PeterW
    +1 to the sand and cement - make it a 5/1 mix with some FEB or similar and don't be afraid of making it a bit wetter than normal as it will settle well into the voids with a gentle tap of a rubber mallet ....!
  11. PeterW
    I think the issue you're trying to resolve is the one of the Celotex floating or absorbing water ..? Any water that is below the insulation and above the DPM will get pushed upwards by the weight of the concrete or screed but some may remain. It's not going to affect anything in the long term. At worst, it will get into the lower part of the screed and it will take longer to dry out.
  12. PeterW
    I need to get a roof on.... ...and it's all the crap jobs getting in the way - taken the guys nearly a day to get the old one off as it's got to come down in bits. I stand and look at the jobs that need doing and contemplate what to do first - usually it's read the forum ..!!
  13. PeterW
    Pair of 1050's if they do them or 1200's if not
  14. PeterW
    Yep - no issue with a pair (one inside and one out) as allows you to change the door in the future
  15. PeterW
    Your garage needs an armchair and a beer fridge ....
  16. PeterW
    You can get them to fit individual appliances from a couple of places in Germany and the granules are much cheaper. Think its www.wiltec.de
  17. PeterW
    I remember that @JSHarris - wasn't that stuck in a bungalow window ..?? That could be a useful "tool" to share around ..!
  18. PeterW
    Site layout Drainage plan Elevations Floorplans Section Wall/Floor section That is the minimum you seem to need for my BCO. You may want : Service plans Window schedules Door schedules wall/floor junction detail any complex details
  19. PeterW
    Is that a single skin wall ..?? Assuming those are 600 centre's and only one joist lands on the lintel then you could get away with a Naylor ES1 65mm lintel.
  20. PeterW
    Two questions .. - what is above the lintel..? - are the joists parallel to or landing on the lintel ..? will help to advise the correct choice .
  21. PeterW
    Soakers over - they can be bent out to be replaced if the cladding needs doing first. Could also just just create a secret valley and be done with it.
  22. PeterW
    Not much ... although you could hang the lower joists from the upper ones to stop any movement.
  23. PeterW
    Johnstones make an endurance paint and it's as hard as £&@# and is scrubbable. Do it once and not have to worry about it for 5 years ..??
  24. PeterW
    So it would provide rigidity but not from the impact of a hammer - you would only have 50mm depth whereas your rafters are 150-200mm depth. Have they battened already and could you go to a 50x38mm perhaps ..?
  25. PeterW
    Can't see how that will help as the centre will still bounce as much as the thickened area will only be 50x50. It may also create valleys in the membrane but they will be filled by the batten. Isn't your roof counterbattened ..?
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