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Everything posted by PeterW
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Hmmm ... so to discharge the first one you need to dig some holes ..!! I would basically state that you are required to undertake limited ground excavation works to comply with the conditions and that unless told otherwise this is not classed as commencing developement. If they don't agree, write to the council solicitor stating they have assigned impossible conditions and ask for them to be removed.
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Bonding Fibreglass to PVC Pipe
PeterW replied to Barney12's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
https://www.electricaldirect.co.uk/product/manrose-2000mm-flat-duct-225x25mm-white-371729?vat=1&shopping=true&mkwid=s_dm&pcrid=157072888259&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=CJurqIHC3tQCFca77Qodmo8P4g may have to watch it for blocking though.- 76 replies
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Bonding Fibreglass to PVC Pipe
PeterW replied to Barney12's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
https://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/products/rectangular-ventilation-duct/rectangular-duct-flat-duct-1mtr/-204mm-x-60mm/ will look for the 220mm- 76 replies
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Unlikely to be drilled for hinges either. MDF does not take screws well so the correct door hinges are key - the one I linked will also drill them for you.
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Yep that makes three of us ..!! 210 degrees based on that description
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Are you looking for wrapped doors or edged doors ..? There was a custom wardrobe door company linked a while back - was it you @PeterStarck that posted it ..?? Edited to add I've just found this link in my bookmarks https://doors2size.co.uk/door-styles/plain/3mm-pencil-round/
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Bonding Fibreglass to PVC Pipe
PeterW replied to Barney12's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
If it's not exposed to sunlight then ordinary rectangular extract duct would work - 220mm x 40mm would be easy to work with.- 76 replies
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Both of those are related to ground conditions and soil type - what do you have ..??
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The Brink units are ~£2k each so I am still struggling to add another £6k - is that a misquoted installed price ..?? BPC do a 22 room system for £4K off the shelf so that would be a benchmark for me. Titan make a 24v 0-10v proportional duct sensor for £165 as they are pretty standard -sounds like Brink just double the price of a standard HVAC component. https://www.titanproducts.com/duct-co2-sensor.html
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£10k seems a massive amount to spend on MVHR ..??! And £700 on a pair of CO2 sensors seems extraordinary as they are £15-20 at most ..! Is there an interface required that drives up the cost ..?
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I would ensure there is a deflection built into the back edge (inverted shallow V) to direct the water down to the sides. Have a look at the sheet lead association website for how to do it in lead and you will get the picture
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Looks like he is saying that the rearward wall will be shaded (from morning sun) however I can't work out where the 120 degrees comes in unless he is saying that the right corner is pointing 120 degrees from north ..??
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Same spec aren't they..?? As long as the dimensions match I wouldn't worry.
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No issue with rearward draining as long as the gutters / transitions are built correctly. The gutter or leadwork will be the same one that catches the flow from the roof above so should be adequately detailed - any reason you are having second thoughts or issues ..? What is the flat roof covering ..??
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Perfect thanks @Nickfromwales
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Can anyone point me at the latest wisdom on attaching timber roof plates to steel beams ..? We have two purlins that have the rafters up against them and I was expecting a small birdsmouth on each to slot onto the top plate attached to the RSJ. Previously I've used a spit/Hilti gun to pin them to the top webs however I've been told that's no longer the correct approach ... So I am assuming it's drill and Coach bolt but is that correct and what spacing ..? SE can't help as he just did the steel sizings and doesn't do domestic work anyway.
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So CatX cable can be what's called CCA- Copper Clad Aluminium. The issue is the suppliers who sell CCA as solid copper as it's fairly difficult to tell in cut lengths but the boxes of CCA are much lighter than a box of the solid copper. I think there is a quick chemical way to check but @JSHarris would need to help me with that ..!
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Yep had to do it with some stranded bamboo flooring - needs a decent sanding belt or pad though as the varnish on mine seems to be very hard and sanders seemed to skate on it.
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You would need to get the foam with no foil on it as the glue should really bond timber to foam. Most SIPs are made from controlled expansion of foam between the sheets creating the chemical bond and splines are just cut down boards of a slightly thinner profile. Any reason for not using the supplier ones ..?
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Sennoke cover vans on site from memory as part of their self build policy - may be worth checking with them ..? They seem pretty switched on to the SB market and tailoring what is available.
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Stuart Turner ones are probably better as they have been properly engineered. But as @Nickfromwales says they are a last resort... Turd gobbling sh!t pump...
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Fitting concealed shower valves and taps - tips?
PeterW replied to jamiehamy's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
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No they need the pipework as per the instructions - followed to the letter ..!!!
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Fitting concealed shower valves and taps - tips?
PeterW replied to jamiehamy's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
You can use LS-X to seal this sort of joint but it's not great as if you do need to undo it then it's a pain ... just sounds like tolerances are out on something. -
Fitting concealed shower valves and taps - tips?
PeterW replied to jamiehamy's topic in Bathrooms, Ensuites & Wetrooms
Tbh I would try a new fitting first ..! If it's the BSP male fitting that is loose then buy a decent U.K. branded one such as Pegler and see if that has any less slop. If there is still slop then consider sending the shower valve back as it's out of tolerance. The other choice is to go for a plastic elbow such as a Hep2O one as I've found they tend to seal a bit better than brass on brass
