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Found 15 results

  1. I've only just realised that my architect designed our plumbing layout in such a way that the boiling water tap in our "drinks station" corner of the kitchen does not have a waste pipe. We had never intended to have the boiling water tap over the kitchen sink, as we rather have a separate drinks station, but I just assumed there would be a tiny sink or at least a drip tray that fed into a waste pipe. The reason providing a waste pipe is tricky is that we would have to route it through a sound proofed wall and that would lessen the soundproofing. Is this a problem? There is plenty of space under the worktop where the boiling water tap is mounted both for the boiler unit and a large container to catch drips. So i could have a 300ml drip tray sunk into the worktop and if that's not big enough i could also drill through that and link it with a pipe to a bigger container in the base unit below. I would then just have to remember to empty that container, but that shouldn't be a problem as it's right by the coffee machine which I need to empty every few days anyway. I'm more concerned that a BCO might object to it not having a waste pipe. Is that a legitimate concern?
  2. Hello, I am completely new to the building control process, stumbling my way through, any help very appreciated... I have a maisonette flat situated on the ground and first floors of a 4 storey residential block. The block is a reinforced concrete frame construction. All floors are reinforced concrete slab, with uninsulated screed over the slab. I want to remove the existing screed. Replacing with floor insulation, then a finished concrete floor containing underflooring pipes. I understand from LB1 the new floor should ideally meet a U-value of 0.25 W/m²K, "feasibility" aside. Q1.A How to calculate the U-value of the ground floor? Is this a correct approach? https://warmafloor.co.uk/support-centre/u-values/ is a guide to calculation of the U-Value of the uninsulated floor. based on The IP 3/90 formula is U = 0.05 + 1.65(P/A) – 0.6(P/A)² Where: U = U-Value of the uninsulated floor (W/m²K). P = Length of the exposed perimeter (m). A = Area of the floor (m²) https://insulation-uk.com/member/u-value-calc is an example of a insulation manufacturer provided calculator I have cross compared and they line-up close enough. Q2.A How to calculate the U-value of the first floors within the same dwelling? I haven't been able to find any guides how to do this Whilst it seems a U-value of 0.25 W/m²K still applies, I would assume that first floors within the same property would require less insulation?? the heat only really escapes from thermal bridging of the floor with the wall, heat wasted downstairs is in the same property?? and/or the room below can be assumed to also be heated or normal room temperature, so there won't be such a large temperature difference, so less insulation is needed?? http://files.nu-heat.co.uk/core/media/media.nl?id=237176&c=472052&h=f809f347f001eb168007&_xt=.pdf this datasheet from a underfloor heating company states "In ground floors the insulation beneath the screed should be 70mm ‘Celotex’ or equivalent, or conform to Part L of the Building Regulations; whichever is greater. In upper floors insulation should be to a minimum of 30mm ‘Celotex’ or equivalent to prevent downward heat transmission" Q2.B can anybody link to a formula or calculator to use? Q2.C or is the calculation just the combined U values of the concrete slab + floor insulation? any help very appreciated : )
  3. Being exceptionally bored and frustrated with lockdown i have goven myself a few tasks that i just would not take on myself(old dog, new tricks) I managed to design, apply and succesfully obtain planning permsiion for a new build of my own design. So now i am applying for building regs to attach a sewere connection to a static caravan onsite. So to my questions. 1) how deep must the gravel be around the soil pipe? 2) does any onw know of revit families that conatin uk spec soil pipe componenets? 3) is an insection chamber the same as a disconnection chamber? Regards and thanks hive mind.
  4. Has anyone tried obtaining the docs on an existing house, or know what their status is? My understanding is that Planning Documents are essentially public, and Building Regs docs are essentially private ie I can't get a copy. I am going to see what my Council says, but I have 2 agendas here: 1 - I am planning work on my house (rebuilt from 3 walls and a hole after nearly-demolition12 years ago by the previous owner), to extend somewhat and improve the fabric, and it would be useful to know as much as possible. 2 - I plan to write to my MP suggesting that all Building Regs documents become basically public, as one response to the Grenfell Enquiry. And as a way of introducing a culture to encourage scrutiny. Any perspectives would be most welcome. Cheers Ferdinand
  5. Hi all. I'm exploring designs and ideas for a self-build garden room at the end of my garden under permitted development but having issues understanding the building regs requirement/process for non-combustible material when building within a metre of the boundary. I want to give part of the build over to a chill out/games room and the rest to a separate workshop. My garden is 6.5 metres wide. I want to maximise the build area and build close to the boundary so I'm thinking 4.5mx4m for room and 1.5mx6m for the workshop/shed, creating an L-shaped building. The right and left boundaries are neighbours' gardens, the rear boundary backs onto a park. The garden is 6.5 metres wide and I was hoping to use most of the full width. Under permitted development I think I'm good but believe under building regs I need to make sure the walls on the 3 boundaries are made of non-combustible material. I've found cement boards from Cedral which are A2-s1, d0 rated which I'd use rather than cedar. So, can I just install the boards and (along with the manufacturers specs/receipt) accept that meets building regs? If that's feasible might my neighbours have reason to complain/raise concerns to the council (I have one neighbour that is certainly pedantic enough to notice building within 1m of the boundary and what that requires)? Or am I being a naive newbie and I'd need to follow some complex building regs application/process with plans, fees, inspections for the entire build etc? The cost and oversight from.what I've seen seems a bit prohibitive when trying to keep the costs of the self-build down - especially as the Cedral seems expensive. And if I did go through building control route would I have to meet any other requirements I'd not considered (other than electrics) such as roof joist spacing, rain water runoff....etc..? Hope that's enough background info and the questions aren't to broad/vague. Any thoughts welcomed!
  6. Hi We live in a Victorian semi detached house in W13 London and are planning to do a kitchen side and rear extension. What I wanted to check is that does this project (assuming it falls under major renovation due to the surface area clause) automatically kicks in external 9 inch solid wall insulation requirements for the rooms in the front of the house (ground and first floor)? Or can we argue that the cost of the internal insulation required on those rooms does not justify the 15 year payback, as the annual saving by doing wall insulation based on the EPC report is only £284 annually (£4260 in 15 years) whereas the cost of internally insulating those rooms is in the range of £7000-£8000. Thanks
  7. I have submitted Full Plan application to Hillingdon Building Control for approval. When I submitted the application I have given the consent that they can take up to 8 week for decision if they required more information and can also approve with condition. After 5 weeks I got a call from building control serveryor and was asking for tree serveryor. There are no such a big tree in my house but there are small trees like (Apple and Plum) in next door property. These trees were already mentioned in the structure calculation pack and their impact on the foundation. He rejected the application instead of asking for further information after 5 weeks. When I got a rejection letter there were 2 reasons - Asked for 30 meter tree survey - According to their record there are trees in 30 meters. - My plan does not comply with Building regulation 2010 section. 14 I called few 10 time to building control and sent them 5 emails to clarify above points but never get any response. When I did not get any response for 2 weeks. I sent them new requirement based on my understanding (Tree survey withing 30 meters and Building regulation 2010 section 14 compliance). Only information I got from Hillingdon Building control that I don not need to submit the application again only send the amendments and process will take up to 3 weeks. Now more than 3 weeks have passed but still no response. I called them few time and sent them few email but BC officer and BC not bother to answer the email. I really fed up with the process now because project already being delayed 1 month. My question is - I want to make a formal complaint about the building control. The only thing is sttoping me that I have to deal with same BC officer during my inspection. BC officer might give me more hard time to approve the work and asked for unnecessary requirement like 30 meter survey. Can anyone share his/her experience in this matter or any advice how to resolve the issue Thanks in advance.
  8. hi, Probably obvious this one ...but i don't know the answer Currently i m waiting for my timber frame supplier to finish and give me the Building Regs document for their bit ...ETA 4 weeks I am in process of drawing up the sewage and services layout for my bit ...ETA 1 Week My foundation company say they NEVER do them and the "setting out drawing" and the "load calcs" (from the frame company will suffice All seems to be tickling along ... Although I just got an email saying that the although the foundations are going in about 4-6 weeks, the foundation company are going to crack an entrance by removing bushes (as currently there is none) , start grading the land and dropping some hardcore in there in advance of the Foundation and frame vehicles Am i silly in thinking that Building regs should be already FILED by the time work starts ? or does the above not count as WORK ? I dont want to be accused of breaching some law or other ?!?
  9. Does anyone have suggestion as to pros or cons for the Building Regs route to follow on a fairly straightforward loft conversion. I plan to keep the property, and it is a rental. I think I could go either route, but am thinking the full plans route as the prices are the same in this LPA, and I get lower risks of getting it wrong inadvertently. Cheers Ferdinand
  10. A PYC tweet today: https://www.ukgbc.org/news/government-confirms-local-authorities-can-set-energy-standards-beyond-part-l-in-nppf/ My summary: The Government yesterday published its revised National Planning Policy Framework (NPPF). Government said as part of the consultation: "local authorities are not restricted in their ability to require energy efficiency standards above Building Regulations". This implies local authorities can can set energy standards beyond Part L now, but just didn't realise it. I would love for a UK local authority to mandate something close to the Passive House standard.
  11. Just signed on the dotted line with MBC for our timber frame and slab. My question is on building regs. What exactly is needed for building regs? I believe MBC / their SE provide calcs for the structure / slab which covers off that bit. Does anyone have a list of what else is needed? What other drawings might be required (even if not for building regs)? And are these needed at the start? Or can we sort those as we go along. Our architect is trying to scare us......
  12. I'm hoping to begin a major build in around three months from now but am still waiting for initial building regs approval which is a precondition of the mortgage that I need. The plans were rejected just before Christmas though the inspector commented that this was mainly because otherwise he would miss a deadline to respond back. However, he had raised around 36 issues that needed to be addressed. When I spoke to the structural engineer about this (who to be honest has been dragging his feet terribly and caused a lot of delay) he told me: final building reg approvals is normally achieved well into the contract as relies lots on sub contractors input I can see where he's coming from but I can't start the build without some kind of approval as it'll hold up funding. Does anyone have any experience of this?
  13. It has been suggested (see the other thread) that a traditional "lean to" might be a better option than a Garden Room (sigh). And I was ready to push the button. What we are talking about is an unheated lean to on the side area of a house against a blank wall with, perhaps, a roof of corrugated polycarbonate or 2/3 layer polycarb as is used on some conservatories. It will be dry but unheated. If you think of a car port with the walls enclosed you get the idea. There will be a door to the back, and probably will not be a door to the front. There may be a door leading into the house, which would be an external quality upvc door - I may need a door there later anyway, so that is not an issue. I can add the door later if that will simplify matters. The floor will probably be slabbed. Cladding (including the roof) could be transparent, translucent, or even opaque. I know that Planning will not apply, as the area under 15sqm, never mind 30sqm, it is on the side of the house behind the line of the principal elevation, and we are not "designated" in any way, and PD rights have not been removed. This is in England. Max height will be under whatever is the PD limit - 3m? Which leaves me stroking my non-existent whiskers about how Building Regulations would apply. The objective is probably that they should *not* apply for reasons of simplicity. I will call up the BCO tomorrow for a chat. In Building Regs terms is it a shed, an extension, a garage or a conservatory? And which are subject to building regs in that situation? In one sense it is almost like a small yard with a roof. I may even be able to make it into whichever I need by mixing my cladding. Although the lean to will be concealed behind a 2m attractive fence, I need to be able to defend my position if someone complains. Any comments are welcome. Ferdinand
  14. I'm ploughing through the final bits for submission of BRegs and I've come across an interesting query.... The build being undertaken is listed as a Conversion and Extension on the planning application, and is effectively the conversion of a large 28sqm footprint double garage, and adding on two extensions of around 30sqm and 45sqm respectively. As its listed as a conversion, and to all intents and purposes the walls will remain from the old garage (it was built for the purpose of conversion in 1992) then its questionable as to whether it needs to follow L1B or L1A. If I read the terms in L1A then the creation of the house from the garage constitutes a material change of use as per the definition. If that is the case, I assuming all of the DER, TER, SAP and Pressure testing goes out of the window and basically I'm on best endeavours in relation to meeting the regs on an elemental method..?? Does that sound reasonable or have I missed something..??!!
  15. I have a question about what is and isn’t enforceable in the building regulations and subsequent guidance. This covers Under Floor Heating (UFH) and control. Our house (after debate on ebuild) will have one UFH zone (Passive Haus) but has a usable floor area of 419m2 (PHPP figure) and I am looking at the following for Part L1: And the Domestic Heating Compliance Guide: In the Building Regulations it states that Reasonable provision shall be made for the conservation of fuel and power in buildings by:….. Such that it is legally enforceable with the ‘shall’. However in the Domestic Heating Compliance Guide states that Dwellings with a total usable floor area of greater than 150m2 should be provided with at least two space heating zones each having separate on/off timing controls and temperature controls. Also the guide is full of ‘should’! I have worked with contractors (in my previous job) whilst refining a multi billion pound specification (military procurement) and they place a great deal of emphasis on Should and Shall, in that I want a Shall to ensure I get it and they want a Should to ensure that they won’t be held to account if it does not perform up to spec, basically Should cost money. So in the same vein a building inspector cannot insist that my house has two or more UFH zones as, as far as I can see, it is not legally enforceable and only a guideline! I would appreciate you thoughts on my dilemma!
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