PeterW

It's been raining and I've been having a think this afternoon. What would happen if you reversed "W Plan" and instead of having DHW priority, you have priority to the UFH / Buffer ..? System components are : 9kw ASHP 250 litre UVC 90 litre buffer (UFH) Low temp UFH No PV My current plan was to use a simple W Plan and time the DHW to be heated by the ASHP (48c) between 01:30 and 04:30, switching to immersion to boost to 62c up to 06:30. ASHP would then kick over to the buffer and bring it up to 37c and the floor would come in at 30c from 06:00 onwards. The norm would be for the W Plan then to drop back to DHW as showers draw off the water however the talk of PHE and pre heat has made me think I need to consider this for a number of reasons. COP - the ASHP at 37c is much more efficient than at 48c Usage - using the buffer to preheat the DHW will extend its capacity, and reduce the amount of high temp cycles the ASHP needs to do ASHP cycling - the volume of water in the buffer will be 6 times that of the DHW coil so should stop short cycling and potential defrost cycles. This would need the addition of a PHE to the buffer but that is easily done - question is, is it worth it ..??

Grass is pretty resilient - dig down 12 inches and keep the soil on site and replace it when you are done and then re-seed or turf.

Is it going to be retained as an access in the future ..?? If so, invest in getting a JCB to strip the topsoil from the roadway and then lay something such as MoT1 or road planings and get them compacted with a decent roller. It will pay dividends in the future.

You can use cheap laminate underlay - the 2mm foam stuff works fine. I'd only suggest putting it under heavily used areas - the rest won't move but beware of duct taping to floors as it may need solvent to get the glue off if it's left for a while.

Just up the road https://roncurrie.co.uk/gates/stock-gates/ledged-braced

Also make sure the floor is spotlessly clean before you lay the Correx - one of our places had to have an oak floor relaid as there was small pieces of gravel and sand caught between the correx and the flooring and the slight movement made it work like sandpaper ...!

You mean you've done FOUR jobs today on the bathroom..??! Not feeling well...??

Yep .... and it's the detail that is hard ..!! Only when we had bricks, tiles and the sample of fascia together we went .... errrr.....

It will be fine @recoveringacademic..! Onwards and upwards..! I was on site at 8pm last night loading up for the brickie and back at 7:30 this morning ... and made a snap design change as a dawning realization (and sunny morning) meant that the choice of fascia was wrong.... and it goes up next week ..!

No but you can make a stunning "swimming pond" for not a lot of money..! Some of the stuff they do on Pool Kings in the US is amazing and that's just black butyl liner in a hole with stone around the edge.

Only if the glass is edge lit ...

Has to be a Gothic arch though..... And a Doric pillar at either end of the bath...!

Wrong measure of durability... Thats the Trada post spec for durability i.e. If you left a 50x50 post in the ground. Larch will last 20-25 years as cladding.

Got any supplier links @JSHarris...?

So...... Youve now got me thinking about using my baby buffer tank with an external PHE....! I have a direct tank with no coil, so would need PHE plus flow switch and pump to drive the transfer however it would be a pretty simple thing to fix... Only issue is that when the ASHP is running I need it to not divert through the PHE (although I'm assuming resistance through the PHE would be higher than through the buffer tank) as I don't really want a zone valve in the way.

The TMV is closed loop mixing of water returning from the UFH loops and then returning the remainder to the TS. Hot is blended in from the top of the TS / Buffer /ASHP as required.

@recoveringacademic - time for a walk and to teach the seagulls some proper German swear words then you need to do as @jamiehamy says and clear the decks safely and carry on May also be worth a quick call to Durisol technical support to see if someone can come to site and do a quick inspection of what's happened - that could be a learning experience for both parties (or all 3 if the builder is there too...)

How much roof height would you lose if you lifted the floor up with a concrete slab ..?? I would seriously consider it - hard to comment without seeing it but leave a full height atrium at some point to give height to the build and drop to 2.2m ceilings. You can gain between floors by using shallower joists at closer intervals which can buy you 100mm. Time to challenge the architect ..!!

Get @Onoff to hand make you 200 copper screws ..... or more seriously use brass slot head screws but line them up nicely .....

£340..??!!!! I'll do them for £275..... No.1.... your SE is talking out of his arse ..! Hardwood is NOT graded unless it's requested and stamped and I know of no-one who does C24 Oak so if that fails his PI won't pay out as it's not as per spec... No.2 .... isn't this an investment property ..?? If so, do some value engineering and lose the twiddly bits ... No.3 ... If you really want twiddly bits, carefully remove the rest of the posts and frame (acro first...) and then rebuild with some nice window shapes in it and get some 6mm laminated cut to size, fix with beads and Robert is your granny's son ...

What size are the Velux....? I'm looking forward to some 78x140s.......

If it's T&G cladding then why not brads through the top edge into every batten ..?? Completely hidden and the paslode (assuming it's not a first fix one) will be fine ..!

That frame needs propping before you pour as otherwise it will bend more with the concrete. Stack of spare blocks and some timber packers..??

That was one of the B&Q replacement doors rather than a proper pre-hung door system.

I looked at these and found their cost comparison was "generous" when it came to the likes of hinges etc. Positives are that the doors are incredible quality - negative is the price ..! They are also prone to damage as you have to either fit them prior to plastering and cover them up, or add cost for lining the frames and then going back with the sets at second fix.