PeterW

Yes ... assuming you get some decent hardcore onto it and a heavy wacker plate. Do it in stages and you can compact pretty much anything. Ideally you want the retaining wall in place to keep the soil from moving - when is that planned to be built ..?

We may need to move a recently installed Velux window down the roof slightly due to it being in the wrong place .... Does anyone know if it's reasonably easy to remove the flashing as it clips into place as I understand it. Ideally I want it removed intact as I don't want to have to buy a new one ..!!

I assume you mean the gas flue blocks ..?? Filling them is no issue - they are pretty thermally efficient so shouldn't touch the outer wall anyway. Lack of CWI - anything built in the last 10 years should have a warranty to fix that

That is correct - BRegs and PP are entirely separate so you can go back to it at a future point.

There are thee things at play here. 1. Planning is "locked in" when you commence, that is you then have an indefinite time to complete the build 2. Building Regs only ends when you've been issued a completion certificate which drives the ability to get insurance and in some instances the council services to the property. 3. VAT reclaim ends when you get the building regs completion cert. If you build what is there in the spirit of the planning then they are usually pretty good. If you do any minor changes then you may have to do an NMA - read your local councils guidance on this. Stopping after "phase 1" or similar will stop your VAT reclaim level so anything after that point will be 20% more expensive.

That's a chunky steel for a load bearing wall - is it over 4m long ..?? I used something slightly larger on one of ours and it was a pig to move - as @TheMitchells say, see if you can get it roughly into place before you put the acro forest in place. alternative is to put it through an outside wall and make good - it becomes a slide through rather than an internal lift if you put it on scaffold outside.

Not sure you can - 40mm in a 150mm would cause issues as you aren't supposed to drill the chords.

I wanted to use Genie lifts but had to get six 7.7m beams into the roof space which was a challenge due to having an existing roof in the way .... We used this bad boy ..! Thats a 4.5m jib on an 8m telehandler ..!

Superglue.... or anything that will hold it such as hot glue gun !

It's only cars/LGV too..! TfL bought a load of "green" buses recently and have had to spend an eye watering £86m to retrofit them to their own emissions target ..! The HGV issue is the biggest one as the energy storage isn't available that would allow them to move from diesel - even hydrogen would be an issue and I can't see them sorting that any time in my lifetime.

Pretty good bearing in mind it's an extension to an old building and has been done using reclaimed brick etc ... I've got timber on site that bends by 15mm over 4m so......

My brickie has just built a 6m chimney with a 5 step corbel from reclaimed bricks and according to my laser it's perfectly plumb ... Roofers told me the ridge is out by 10mm over 16m today too ... He uses a 1200mm Ox level, and a string line. Doesn't even use profiles for the doors and windows ..!

Adding some boards on the bottom transoms and then putting a few blocks onto those also stops the movement too ..!!

Overkill is an understatement..!! SE's aren't expensive - I'd be concerned at what else he has missed if that's an example.

Go with two layers of rock wool at 95mm each and then add a 30mm overlay of PUR and you have your 0.15 for pitched. Then seal it up with membrane to stop the real leaks ..!

Does your architect have steel shares...???!! Never seen B785 in a domestic environment - it is used in heavy slabs for structural floors and other open span designs ..!! If this is a standard enclosed ground bearing slab with a span not exceeding 10m in either direction without support then A142 would be adequate. If he really wants structural then A252 would be ok but it's overkill unless there is some cantilever..??Has he calculated it as non-ground bearing and spanning over the 3 intermediate walls ..??

Have you got no diagonals on that kwikstage ..?? Braver man than me ....

You can bury IBCs but they need to be either concreted in or supported in some way as they can be stacked full up to 4 high. That to me is a 3000kg static load through the bottom one - most likely through the trellis and corners so they can take a fair bit.

If you can tell the difference between the mass concrete sound of a solid 100mm slab vs one with hollows then you're better than me ...!! Mine is solid as a rock - although I used the Wunda trays ...

Is that a Grohe unit ..??

Welcome John - sounds like a candidate for a blog ....!

Hi Mike to answer your points : 1. yes in most circumstances. The PP has to list the demolition and then what is being retained. 2. Two walls maximum can remain - usually those facing the highway but this needs to be a condition of the planning. 3. It's on the HMRC VAT for Selfbuilders fact sheet - planning won't have a clue ..!! Good luck with planning and keep us posted Peter

You need to seal that sandstone very well if you use it indoors as it stains very easily. It may even be worth sealing it with one coat before laying and then add another over the grout and slabs when it's done. You will have to watch carefully if you are linking direct to a boiler with the UFH as the time for it to warm through will be quite a lag from when you put heat in - mixed UFH and trad rads can mean issues where the rads overheat as the floor hasn't reached temperature. Plan carefully ..!

50mm slope is a big slope and you will notice it unless your garage is 10m or more. I would go the 150mm - it's not a difficult step as it's less than an ordinary staircase. Makes it easier if you put a landing on the door side in the garage so you don't jolt down.

You don't need any zones - or actuators for that matter. Just pipe it as two equal loops and leave the actuators off, link the stat to the pump and set the mixing valve as low as you dare ...