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About Me


Found 13 results

  1. A double barrell question, please. Im building new - masonry, with sand and cement - when can I plaster the sand and cement, how do I know? - same question, indoors?
  2. Hi guys I’m new to the forum, please be gentle with me! I have built an enclosed workshop on a tarmac driveway - the floor of the workshop is the tarmac. I believe there is a concrete slab about 30mm below the tarmac… I don’t know for sure that the slab is continuous, nor do I know the condition or thickness of the slab because the tarmac was down before we moved in. The tarmac wasn’t great to start with but now there’s trolley jacks and the ocasional spillage to contend with it is getting scrappy. Every time I sweep I’m bringing up the aggregate 😕 I should like to have a non-porous, flat, smooth, strong floor without adding more than 15mm to the existing height of the surface. Is there anything I can pour / trowel / paint onto the tarmac to seal it, stabilise the surface and level it off? Or am I stuck with excavation as my only option? The area is approx 25m2. It is bound by existing tarmac front and back, the house on one side and a dwarf wall on the other. There is no DPM under the tarmac - this is not a problem for me, but may affect the solution. We live on the top of a hill… and the subsoil is sand and ballast… we don’t have drainage problems! The workshop is a wooden structure and is built directly onto a 300mm engineering brick (and waterproof mortar) dwarf wall and leans-to against the house. Front and rear are full height / full width doors. If you need more information, please let me know. Thanks for your help.
  3. Hi, My plasterboarding guy has recommended I use something to seal by new boards prior to painting. He recommended gyproc drywall sealer - which seems to be discontinued in Ireland. He said if you don't seal them there is a risk the tapes/joints will show through- we aren't skimming. Anybody any recommendations for a product for sealing and or priming new boards? I will probably get it sprayed on prior to final two costs of paint. Thanks
  4. I am thinking about getting the house spray painted internally before 2nd fix. I am not sure whether this should be best done before or after finished floor is put in. I believe there is pros and cons for both. Before you arent worried about overspray onto the finished floor and how that might impact tiling in the future, however you are susceptible to more damage as the vast majority of plumbing would be done after this into the floor build up. To do it after finish floor you only have 2nd fix to worry about but what about the overspray?? Essentially I want guidance for when to do this inline with the thought of never to paint where you are going to tile.
  5. Hi all I'm renovating/converting an old pub into a house and the existing brickwork is covered with several coats of thick white masonry paint. I've been pulling the electrical fittings and wiring from the facade and it's making an awful mess. We're going to be changing some windows and doors, adjusting brickwork here and there as well as building new walls - all to be painted. What is the best and quickest way to remove this old paint from brickwork (some of which is 18th century) to give a good surface to repaint later? Thanks,
  6. By a stroke of good fortune, I've just acquired a nearly new very high pressure airless paint spraying rig, complete with gun, pump, hoses etc. According to the (rather basic) instructions, it looks to be fairly easy to use, but I've zero experience with this sort of spray kit; all I've used in the past is conventional spray guns and HVLP. I've had a look around YouTube, and there seem to be loads of American videos on spraying house interiors, but all the ones I've seen are a bit thin on detail. It seems that this method of painting is common in the US, but not used as much here. I want to use this to paint the inside of our garage with white emulsion, as it looks as if using a high pressure (as in around 200 to 250 bar) sprayer is a very quick way of covering a fairly large area. Has anyone here used one of these things, and if so, are there any words of wisdom that could be shared?
  7. What colour white have people chosen for their build. People have said are you using just every day good old white emulsion or are we going with a strong white, elephants breath or gnomes testicles are other suggestions. Going to use just ordinary white to get basic colour and then decide whether to use this as final colour or over paint with a slightly different white. Only sensible replies please!!
  8. After rolling paint in one room I realised my shoulders weren’t going to make it. So I invested in this Aldi paint sprayer. It’s not an industrial one so coverage is only marginally quicker than a roller. But you don’t have to keep dipping into a tray and there are no streaks. And it’s brilliant for applying a mist coat onto fresh plaster where the ceilings and walls have the same paint. Best £40 I spent in a long time. Progress much quicker now and my shoulders are surviving. Takes about 5-10 mins to clean it for the next use. Took a few mins to get used to the ‘controls’. Still available online and free delivery. Still reckon we have 8 weeks of painting ahead of us. 1-2 hours a night after work just isn’t enough. But I love my spray gun?
  9. Bit of a strange heading, I was having a YouTube hunt for a glue for XPS sheets and one product that came back with a good report was a primer sealer made by a company called Glidden would anybody know what the make up of this paint would be so I could find a similar product and also why it works on XPS i know a lot of the low expansion foams work well I was just looking for a product that won’t squeeze out of joints if applied a bit heavy handed and also maybe brush applied for good coverage. Cheers russ.
  10. Building on this thread, the question the fabricator has asked me whether we want the steels painted or galvanised? Well, I suspect that galvanising, while excellent, would be too expensive. The steels hold a structure (a curtain wall) that is external to the heated envelope, and they form one corner of the house. Has anyone got any experience of painting steels? What's the best paint to use? Is it the sort of job that a self-builder can do well enough? Got any trade names for an appropriate paint? We are about a mile or so inland (and more importantly down wind) from the sea. Blown salty wind is only a problem in winter. (I can taste it)
  11. Plasterer is finishing on site tomorrow and I'm quite excited about getting the paintbrushes out! I'm going to be very boring and just go for white everywhere, at least for the first few coats. Seems to make sense to do this now, before moving on to flooring etc. I'll have to see what's available locally, but in general are there any brands or types I should be looking for, or avoiding?
  12. Hi all, We got our bathroom redone a couple of months ago, and the walls were replastered and repainted. Just recently, bubbles have started appearing just on one section of the walls. They only appear after showers, and when the bathroom has cooled down the bubbles disappear. Our contractor is insisting that he's never seen this problem before, and that he had paid for quality bathroom paint for the painter. Can anyone advise what could have caused it? Wrong paint / primer / waiting times not sufficient? I attach a photo below, I hope it's clear enough. Many thanks in advance.
  13. Hi, I'm looking to repaint the exterior masonry walls of my house over the summer. I'll wash down the walls, scrape away the loose paint etc and fill the cracks. After that I've found a vast range of interweb advice over which paint (& possibly primer) to use - Pliolite/Silicone/Acrylic/water based/oil etc. I don't necessarily want to seal the wall (cavity block construction) if that could prevent the wall breathing and cause moisture problems inside. What paint have you had success with and what should I aim to use in my case do you think? Thanks!
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