Russell griffiths

You will need to up that insulation level as 100mm is a very low spec and in keeping with the time your foundation was put in, you need to allow at least 150mm plus 50-80mm of screed depending on type of screed, then finish floor. So that means your finished floor will be 250mm higher than the concrete you have in your pics.

Have you considered a timberframe up the top. Have you got the room to put a timberframe inside the stone walls downstairs.

Rustic junk. ?? i think tile style on the floor can make a wet room fit in, limestone in smaller sizes looks nice I think. I like the mcalpine stuff very very robust and some good design details. The one I chose you can raise the height of the tiles by adding in a plastic disc spacer, so if you change you mind on tiles after installation you just bump it up a bit.

I cannot see how this will work, unless you are getting all your stone cut to a regulated size how will you keep a nice regular face, the stone will be all different widths which you then lay to a nice line by having more or less poking backwards into the cavity.

Will that not look a bit modern in your place, not that I know what your place looks like I’m just going by the flagstones and sash windows. Ive just fitted one from mc alpine, you screed it in then tanking membrane goes over the top before tiles. Second house I have used them in, good bits of kit but a bit expensive for some plastic and a couple of stainless screws.

Looks good from my house. ??

Thanks all will talk to the sparky.

Any idea what is added at the CU to do this.

Is surge protection still a thing??? im planning location of sockets at the moment and have got to my wife’s office, it will be full of all computer type stuff, so should the computer go through a surge protection socket of some description. Also what about television and stuff located in the front room.

Reading that it looks like the bloke didn’t put it on thick enough, I also don’t think you use the accelerator any more. I phoned the technical helpline and they told me that they do not recommend the accelerator anymore as roofers could not work out the amount correctly, they said as long as it was 5 degrees and rising you could install. I did it on a day that was 7 rising to 10 degrees, I had it all on by 3 pm and it was picking up starting to go by then, by the morning it was like a sheet of rubber. I haven't actually looked at it since I did it.

@Rainmaker cannot help with prices, I have absolutely no idea how many m I have, I had a budget and they came in under budget with better spec glass than I thought I would get, so I bought them. They have been in since January, but we are not in the house yet, I fitted them myself apart from the lift n slide door, and I wish I had done that as they charged me £2000 to fit that and a big triangle window the fitters where nice lads, I just didn’t like spending £2000 for one days work.

Can only help a bit, I have norrsken and really like them, went to look at rational and cannot understand why so many people buy them.

Fark me, the thickener was £65 for a litre, I think I used 150ml, so that is a right con but if you build the £65 in with the total amount to do the whole job 25kg desmopol. £175 1 litre thickener £65 matting £40 so £280 did 10m plus 7m upstand.

Do you have a pic from the outside

I used the fleece membrane, just like glass fibre mat really, you get a thickening product that you mix in to do the upstands, it removes the self levelling properties exactly the same process as grp but without mixing in the catalyst.

I would be looking at something else rather than grp, it’s very moisture sensitive when installing, if you will be looking at doing this in the next few months. I would look for somebody that does the new single component modified polymers, I’ve just done my flat roof in a product called DESMOPOL i did it on a damp day and it rained lightly 3 hours after I had finished, very happy with it, but it has only been on a week.

You don’t normally put the waste behind the machine, it goes in the cupboard next to the machine with a hole in the side of the cupboard for the drain pipe, putting it behind normally ends in a world of pain trying to install the machine and get the pipe all in, let alone clearance problems.

I’m sure that’s what I suggested 5 hours ago ??‍♂️

Cannot remember the u value, too long ago. I beam 225 dont like the quilt stuff insulation 200 ductwork MVHR you will find it hard to diy spray foam as the equipment to do it is not readily available to hire. I discounted it as it was double what mine cost to do, I had 3 quotes and they where all roughly the same. There are are many ways to build a house you just need to find what works for yours.

i did this on my icf house 1. Plasterboard 2.service batten 3.pir insulation taped at all joints and sealed to walls 4.was going to be vcl but left this out as I used the pir board to do this. 5.i joist. 6.knauf Omni fit insulation 7.breather membrane 8.counter batten 9.sarking boards- battens 10. Roof covering. This could all all change depending on your roof buildup mine is all vaulted. Be aware of what you will do with ductwork I have had a bit of a drama planning where to put it as I started building before it had all been finalised.

I would not do it how your proposing is there not the option to drop the waste pipe down to where it should be? if not I would fit an inline trap, one with a waterless trap and instead they have a rubber flap to keep smells out, then maybe an air admittance valve on the end of the run. That pipe needs more clips or it will sag.

I personally think the whole design is wrong if all the water coming from the main house roof is being projected onto that flat roof then it should have been designed to take all that extra water i would want to see a box gutter arrangement ro the two back sides of the lantern collecting and guiding the main roof water off to the front edge. Was this an existing roof roof that you have just done a refurb on, it’s poorly designed and poorly executed.

I wouldn’t use flexible, I always found it collects sediment i would use a ridged 110mm pipe, the drain around the property can be flexible if wrapped correctly to prevent silt entering the system, but as it flows away if the run is slight you can get a silt build up.

@PeterW one of these valves will be for the bath, it will operate a spout and a wand, so no problem there, I just want them to work if the input temp is low coming from the cylinder. He is probably unconscious at home as he’s ignoring my witty text messages today.

@PeterW this is all coming from the hep 2 O and hot return saga, when we all discussed that hep was ok on a hot return as it’s blended down and is run around the pipe work at a lower temperature, that’s all good, but are we going to run into problems with shower valves wanting a higher input temp. Might need to wait for @Nickfromwales to sober up to get some input.