Russell griffiths

There are very few materials shortages, just people using it as an excuse. Just use 50mm pir, then tape it then plasterboard, it will be cheaper, that insulated plasterboard is very expensive.

this is a picture of mine, ignore the junk we where trying to plan our kitchen. You can just see the ceiling. Thats 70mm of pir board on the underside of my joists, then a batten, plasterboard is fitted to this batten if you can see the boards are taped together and sealed to the wall with an air sealing paste, you will just tape it to your pir in the walls. I noticed you have a few cables running along the sides of joists, is it to late to move them inside the thermal envelope of the building, every penetration through the vapour layer will need sealing.

You can fix this easily ditch the insulated plasterboard, it’s very expensive and only does half a job. Instead change it into two different products doing the same and a better job fit pir board on the inside taped and joined to each other to make a complete flat silver surface, then add a batten to form a gap to run services through and so no lights or other things penetrate this silver vapour control layer, then add plasterboard. You need in theory to make a fully sealed up tinfoil box, any water moisture will find any gaps and go inside the structure, it then turns into condensation as it hits a cold surface, if you stop it getting there by keeping it inside your box then that’s what you want.

I think you need to find something else to worry about 10-15mm out of plumb would hardly show up on the chippies level if you can still see the bubble it’s fine.

It’s gone mate, Jeremy has joined a traveling circus. Blog has gone. Somebody must have peed him off.

So you don’t have an airtight membrane at all then, boards between studs or rafters will not form an airtight seal. So you either turn what you have into a membrane or install a separate membrane over the top of what you have. Version 1 all boards need fitting tightly to the studs rafters, squirty foam everything, then silver aluminium tape every join, join each board to each stud then the next until you have an entire room that is silver, there won’t be a bit of timber on show. A bloke on here recently did a very good job zoothorn look up his extension questions it’s in there somewhere, it will basically look like a cannabis grow room. Version 2. buy a roll of air tight bembrane and tape it over the face of all walls, ceilings, taping all joins and taping walls to ceiling and walls to floor including void under the first floor ceiling. Look on youtube, loads of product videos showing procedure poinless having lots of insulation if it’s air leaky.

Haven’t yet, just first fixing plumbing now will be ASHP

And they have a habit of floating off in a flood

They are legally entitled to remove any vegetation back to the boundary, up to the full height as long as, it doesn’t harm the tree/ hedge doing so. It would be fairly sensible to think that you would need to allow a bit of space to erect the new fence.

How far are you from the drain, that’s a lot of fall.

£10,000 cheap, I had a quote of £14,000 and one of £16,000

It’s that round and oval stuff with the supposed anti bacterial lining. The oval stuff must be plated with gold particles £192 for a 20m length

Yes it’s good stuff, look at their website and study the tech drawings of how to instal properly, you will need to tank well as you haven’t used moisture resistant plasterboard, but you should tank well regardless of what board you use do not scrimp on this stage, your expensive tray will be worthless if water is getting around it.

Trying to establish the correct boundary is a mine field, land registrimaps are so inaccurate, do you think it is in the wrong place or are you annoyed they removed some of the hedge. You would not normally require council consent for a fence on a domestic property.

Absolutely everyone who came to my site with shoes on raped me.

They do make a horizontal tank.

Cannot see a problem, it looks well on their side, if you measure from the ground on their side it would only be 4 foot high on your side so not much use really. TBH I think you will have a real struggle to get anybody to see much wrong with it. Trim the hedge hard back and do some more planting this winter.

If you have a tf company doing your frame why not get a deposit paid and lock in the price.

You will need to waterproof the whole shower wet area tanking membrane with specific waterproof corner sections and details. Do not be thinking you can just tile the plasterboard, that’s a disaster waiting to happen. Lots of posts on here about bathroom tanking @Onoff is the man who likes taking lots and lots of pictures.

Anti condensation coating and vents.

I would have a real good sort out and let the removal co store it. Some removers do very good rates if you don’t need access to your stuff, we have been looking into this for the wife’s parents if you stick it in self storage it can cost a fair bit whereas the removers are 2/3 rds cheaper as long as you don’t want to keep turning up to look in your box. Ive owned dozens of shipping containers and they are good for tools and ride on lawnmowers and junk, but not soft furnishings.

What have you bought for your build that you consider to be the most overpriced for what it is. Im going to go with any ducting that goes with mvhr. To clarify why, I can buy any 110mm underground drainage bends for £4-5 a bend, so why is a 90degree bend for mvhr £11. I think the Chinese need to get in on the act to get the prices down.

I have seen a 450x450 brick pillar snap clean off at ground level when the gate swung in a gust of wind, I think you need to re think this and look at gate type and location steel post in the centre of the pillars concreted into the foundation at least 600 into the ground, and if ground is loose through excavation for services then a lot further.

It won’t have chance to bubble up squirt it all on, slap on timber, fire 34- 45 65mm ringshanks into it, it will still be there when you long gone.

If you lift that up I bet you it ends up in a skip, thats a monumental job to lift it and relay. Unless you are madly in love with it the labour involved would far outweigh skipping it and buying new engineered wood floor, the time you have sanded out the mess the monkey plasterers have made you could have laid new stuff.