Russell griffiths

We have laminated in whole house only added about 5%.

Blowerproof is a bit expensive, but if you think you will use 3-4 tubs then £200-£250 is not a lot for some good insurance.

G,day all the vanity units I’ve had before had doors on them, now the ones we are looking at have drawers. What sort of void space is behind the drawers to accommodate pipework. I can look up tech drawings, I just thought some of you good people might have some pictures for better ideas. Cheers peeps.

As far as I’m aware, but I’m no expert only what I read on here, I don’t think you are responsible for any cost, a lot on here have offset their connection fee with the cost that the dno will incur removing their poles from your land. Bit of bartering and you should get what you want.

Costs on what ? moving the cables, or building a house.

Move house, it will be easier in the long run. Or go and buy a longer drill bit, drill all the way through and push in a bit of 20mm plastic pipe as you retrieve the drill. Then slide through the copper.

I used a planning consultant for my place, if they had of suggested that we use my wife’s maiden name so nobody knew it was us I would have done it, there’s many strange ways to do things, just start getting your head around the fact that they are doing something.

Regarding the cuts, just cut them twice, you cannot put a cut edge up against a factory edge it will look shit.

But you also don’t need to own a property to apply for consent on it.

I think you need to get it in your head what the end game is and see how you feel about it. Lets say the end game is to apply to convert it into a house. How does that grab you, doesn’t matter how they went about it, what are your feelings if it happened. You then have a few choices. Live with it move fight it all the way. We have recently fought ought and won a case against a neighbour who was trying to set up a commercial enterprise, it cost a lot of neighbours a lot of time and money to fight him, but in the end we won. We estimate he lost £70,80000 fighting us. Work out what it means to you and take the appropriate action.

You can buy a liquid air sealing paint, paste type stuff, you either paint it on thick around all joist ends and penetrations, or spray it. I wouldn’t use sand and cement for any detail work as it will dry crack and leave gaps. Flexible is your friend. I have probably used 25 sausage tubes of air sealing paste to go around all the nooks and crannies.

@Balraj Appadu, why the 4 inch nudura, just use the 6 inch you could land an aeroplane on my roof.

No your parge coat is the vcl as long as it’s done well, you need to look at how joists will be fixed to the walls and how you seal around them.

Please tell me you will tape and paint that wall before you fit it.

I like acrylic eggshell, avoid oil based as it yellows badly. Buy a couple of litre tins to have a check first.

I was going to say exactly the same, get a smaller cylinder.

Doesn’t that pic show 3m to the toxic materials not the corner of the building @ProDave

I was thinking the same, what is the max discharge temp, then what would that be 3-4 m away.

If this is run in copper to outside, how do you finish it outside, and what should it drain into.

Wasn’t me honest guv.

@PeterW so are you basically saying if I have a wall with a door in it that has a 10mm gap underneath for the mvhr to work better the wall insulation becomes a waste of time, as sound transfer will be through the door itself as well as the gap under the door.

Morning can anybody point me at building regs for sound insulation between rooms in timber stud walls. If a wall is built using 88mm cls timber then I’m going to struggle to get 100mm in, so is 75mm sound slab enough walls will have 11mm osb both sides and then plasterboard, happy to upgrade plasterboard if it’s needed. What are the regs on ceilings between rooms I have 225mm deep joists so far more room in there.

So you basically did it a bit dodgy to save money and now you’ve found out it’s going to bite you on the arse. Its very simple to sort out but it’s going to cost you the money you think you saved the first time around at this time they don’t hang people for doing non building regs work, but they will if you let anybody sleep up in that room and there is an accident, then the poo will really hit the fan. I would either, get an architect around to draw up a list of everything that is wrong so you are prepared, or go straight to the council and tell them what you have done, there will be a few fees to pay for inspections, but at least you will have a building you can use. You can also choose to do nothing, but it will only be able to be used as a storage area whatever you do, do not rent it out.

So let’s say you don’t fancy taking it down why not buy a dozen 4m lengths of rsj dig a metre square hole next to each steel leg and put the rsj in, fill with concrete get a mobile welder out to weld some cross bracing in between the two chunks of steel so in effect you can completely undermine the whole barn dig out what you need, pour your preferred floor then cut off the temporary supports re bolting the steel legs back onto the new floor cut the temporary rsj down to ground level bobs your mothers brother.