Oxbow16

Members
  • Content Count

    219
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About Oxbow16

  • Rank
    Regular Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    South West Wales

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. That all sounds great, but to be honest that's why I'm here because I don't know what I would need. Nor whether it even exists! Perhaps. And if we have to do that then so be it, but I'd like to see what options I have first as it's definitely our preference to keep the old waste. You'll have to forgive me, I'm not familiar with the different types of plumbing fittings, BSP, etc. But having looked into it more it turns out that the "nut" from a standard trap (the bit that you tighten) actually screws on fine, so I guess the thread is standard 1 1/2" BSP. The problem is with the pipe section and rubber seal of the trap. Because the sink waste's inner diameter is smaller than normal, the trap pipe won't slot into the waste to form a seal with the O ring. So whereas it should be like this: On my sink it doesn't and it looks like this: With all that in mind, is there anything other than the rubber reducer with jubilee clips that will work? Many thanks
  2. Sorry, it's been a long day! I meant trap, which to be fair does consist of bits of pipe I've amended the title and thread to make it clearer though.... Cheers
  3. Hi all We're having an old belfast sink fitted in our WC/utility room. We'd like to use the existing old waste; and by all accounts it'd be a pig's jacksie to remove even if we wanted to! The threaded section in the photo measures approx. 1.88" / 47.8mm outside diameter and 1.24" / 31.5mm internal diameter. The only thing I can think to use is something like this: https://www.swelluk.com/swell-rubber-reducer/ But whilst the sink out will be inside the reducer, which is good from a gravity point of view, the 40mm trap/pipe will also be inside the reducer which ain't so great. So I wondered if there are any other options? Anything entirely different? Or something along the lines of the rubber reducer, but with a threaded connection on the smaller end to it connects to the 40mm trap/pipe properly? I'll keep looking in the meantime. Thanks a million
  4. Hi all I've already got vermiculite in the loft, but only to 100mm or so (varies quite a lot)... I'm currently reboarding beneath my header tank and got a few other jobs to do up there, but will soon want to add additional insulation. Does anyone know how vermiculite performs compared to the usual suspects? I've had a quick look online and come up with nothing so far. It would be really helpful to know so that I can decide what else to add up there, where to put what, etc. Many thanks for reading.
  5. Thanks for the replies and suggestions. Someone reminded me about Toupret fillers... I'd kind of forgotten. I've used Le Reboucheur in the past after having read how much pro decorators rate it, and I too thought it was excellent stuff. Not used it for a few years, and so forgot that it says there's no maximum depth. I'm not sure if another one of their other fillers - TX110 - was about when I bought Le Reboucher, but with a quicker setting time and no limit to the application thickness, I'm gonna give that a go. Cheers for taking the time to respond and help
  6. Great, thanks for the tip I'm going to be using low expanding foam around the frame to seal it. Could I potentially use that in the gap or is it too large? Cheers
  7. I'm might have ballsed up here... I was planning to patch up a few holes like this one before it gets tiled in just over a week or so (could be less): I had thought to use mortar, but now I'm thinking that might take too long to cure enough for tiling over (more than happy to be corrected if I'm wrong!!)? If I'm right, is there anything else I can use that could be dry/cured well enough in 5-7 days+? I'll get there one day! Cheers
  8. Thank Jesus, Buddha and Mohammed for that! Right, I think I get you. So in the last two photos I'd be foaming/filling to the left of the DPC? And the order of things looking from left to right would be - reveal, foam, DPC, window frame. Is that right. So to be el thicko, but I keep drawing a blank when I try to think about it logically myself! As for the large deep gap, I was thinking of using mortar for that. Or could foam be used there too? Wasn't sure if it was too large for foam. Thanks again for all the help and guidance.
  9. Hi Craig Thanks for joining it and sharing your expertise Not a fan of it, but do you hate it enough that you would take hammer and chisel to the reveals and get it all out? I hope not because that sounds like quite a big job! And it's not the only window that has it. Assuming for a moment that you're not proposing that and that whilst not ideal it's there now and so must stay, how do I do about doing the filling and foaming around the window? Should the DPC you can see be on the outside side of the foam etc (pressed against the frame?), or on the room side? The reveal is going to be tiled in the next week or two, so what foaming/filling I do will be the stage one to the stage two of tiling. Thanks for your help.
  10. That all makes sense RE the 5mm. I was thinking about it properly. I did see expanding tape while I was looking into it earlier this week, and I wondered when and how that would be used. That explains it then I do tend to struggle with the theory behind the sealing vs ventilating balance. Think I might have done a thread about it a few months back. It's something I need to get my head around as we do more work on the house. As I sit here now only two coffees into the morning, I scratch my head when I think on the one hand the desire to seal around the window properly to eliminate all draughts, cold bridging etc, yet on the other hand the need for a trickle vent. Or perhaps it's quite simple - the gaps around the window aren't controllable whereas the trickle vent is??? In any case, there's no trickle vent, but we do have the window open often-ish. Cheers
  11. Morning Onoff Not sure what was there before but I'd think wooden windows is most likely. It's a mid-70s extension and the current windows - I think - were put in around the turn of the century. Yep, it is cavity walls. Hard to tell how much the DPC wraps around beyond what you can see in the photos. Unless I take hammer and chisel to reveal, which I'd rather not! I will have another look now it's daylight though, and also a look at other windows from the same era to see how they look. We discussed me filling all gaps with expanding foam, even as small as 5mm. Does that matter seeing as there is meant to be a 5mm gap (something I also read/saw on youtube vids earlier in the week)? Presumably the gap is to allow the window to expand / contract? Or is the idea that expanding foam is flexible enough to allow the expansion whilst eliminating the draughts and cold? Thanks again and have a great weekend.
  12. I'm back from work now, and there was some loose wall in the reveal so I've pulled that out and taken another couple of photos which show the DPC deeper into the wall. I thought they might better show what's going on and in turn what I need to do... Cheers
  13. Hi The onslaught of plumbing questions continues! Sorry folks... The plumber is coming on Monday and will be draining down to do the bathroom etc. I was considering whacking in some system cleaner before he comes, but would need to get some tomorrow. 1. Is it worth using for such a short time (less than 48 hours)? 2. If so, which one would people recommend for that timescale? 3. I think it's Fernox who say the system should be drained and refilled BEFORE using the cleaner. Is that generally true for all cleaners? I won't be able to do that and can only add it to the system as it is now. Is that ok? 4. I'd prefer to add it via the magnetic cleaner. I've got one of these: https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/center-(cb)-system-filter-22mm-black/ Are the quick dose etc versions from different manufacturers all compatible, or would I have to buy a specific one for that filter? 5. People sometimes say, half jokingly, that if you have a *really* old banger of a car you shouldn't clean it because the dirt is holding it together A plumber once told me that the same is true of old heating systems, and that system cleaners can potentially cause/expose problems if there's rust inside radiators, dodgy piping behind the scenes, etc. I've googled and not found others saying the same, so wondered what people here think about that? We've on oil, normal boiler (vented system), most of house heating around 20 years old, but some radiators probably much older than that. Many thanks for putting up with me!
  14. Thanks for the @Onoff - that guide will be very handy. I'm all done with the frame fixings and no DIY disaster. My partner looked shocked! I was more pleasantly surprised Will give some low expanding foam a blast around the window/wall over the weekend, with all your tips to hand. Does anyone have any thoughts on that before I do? Cheers
  15. Thanks for the further replies. @saveasteading -Good point RE the eco credentials and something that does matter to me, so I'll bear that in mind. I do have a reasonably small carbon footprint though day to day, so if the hardwood trumped the soft on other counts then I might just close my eyes, clench my buttocks, and do the wrong think environmentally on this occasion... @Temp - WBB? What does that stand for or should it read WBP? Trouble with that is sourcing it at this stage, and finding someone who can either cut it on site so that I can transport it, or who does delivery. Also, sticking one bit on t'other.... That would depend on whether it resulted in the plumbing work having to be redone due to the small change in height... Something I'd rather avoid if possible... All in all, I think the 18mm will be fine, and probably fine just in it's off the shelf state. I made the thread wondering if all the answers would be a definite "NO!". So I'm feeling sufficiently re-assured now. Cheers for all the help