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About Oxbow16

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  1. Just googled that myself, and 904 seems to certainly be non-magnetic, so that's a good start...
  2. Thanks @markc There are no markings on the liner itself. Good point RE the 316, which is presumably on the outside and so doesn't come into contact with the gases. But with that being said, why do they then manufacture the 904/904 and give it a longer (sometimes lifetime) warranty? Is it a "second line of defence" situation? Also, I've just put a magnet to the flue - inside and outside - and it falls straight back off. Is that to be expected? Cheers
  3. Hi all Recently had a stove installed. We asked for 904/904 flue liner to be used but I'm not sure it has been and am thinking 904/316 might have been used instead. The data plate just says 904 on it, and the installer doesn't seem to distinguish between the two. I've attached some photos of an offcut that was left... Is it possible to tell from these what type it is? Happy to take more if that would help. Or is there any other way to tell what it is? In the third photo you'll see that there are thinner strips of metal that I've peeled back to illustrate the point. I don't know if that counts as the inner or whether it is an additional layer? But that is definitely thinner than the outer... Cheers
  4. Thanks for the advice @markc I can certainly see the sense in adding new timber to support it, if that's what's needed. I did show it to a couple of builders/roofers who were here quoting for other work, and they both said just to treat it and use hardener, which is why I started on that line of thought. But that was just after a quick glance up; they didn't go up the ladder to look properly. I've hopefully got another coming next week and will perhaps ask if he can take a closer look. Cheers
  5. Hi We had a disused flue taken down recently. It had been occasionally leaking prior to removal, and now that it's gone and left a hole in the ceiling, I can see that one of the rafters has been damaged. The wood was wet and soft in places. I removed the worse of the soft damaged wood, and what remains has dried out quite nicely over the last few weeks. I've given it some woodworm treatment, not that there was any evidence of any, but just in case. I was going to follow up with some wood hardener and then leave it at that. But I've been reading my bottle of wood hardener and it says to follow up application with wood filler. And it also says not to use it as a surface treatment. So would slapping on some wood hardener as a last step be a bad idea? Do I need to use some kind of treatment to prevent wet rot? I've no idea if that's what I can, other than the fact it was wet and a bit rotten! But now that the source of the water is gone, does it need it? Any other ideas of what's best to do? Cheers
  6. Excellent, thanks Mark. Would I need to use any kind of primer, or PVA, or can I go straight in? Cheers
  7. Many thanks for the replies. We are indeed dead against I'm relatively new to all this, but I did do some mortar repairs to my fireplace recently and was pleasantly surprised how well it came out. So I like that option. Are we just talking a basic sand /cement (4:1) type mix? Should it be done in stages to build up the levels or with render/mortar can it all be done in one go? Cheers
  8. Hi We've just had our kitchen floor re-tiled. We removed the skirting boards before they came, and we do not want to put skirting boards back. We much prefer not having them. The trouble is, while most of the room is fine and may need the odd dab of filler for SB nail holes etc, there are a couple of areas where there is quite a deep void (or is "recess" a better word?). One such area is a solid wall, and the other is a plasterboard wall which is actually the side of a larder cupboard. What would be the best way to fill these areas and what should I use? The finish doesn't have to be great. It's an old farmhouse, the type where we wear welllies indoors etc. and the walls are not perfectly smooth. So rough and ready is fine. Many thanks (PS - Hope I chose the right forum, I guess it's not strictly speaking plastering or rendering, but is it close enough??)
  9. Would simply cutting the pipes above the nut be a bad idea? I was just wondering if it would mean less likelihood of weeping/leaking if I don't have to touch the vavles other than to turn them off. That's to an outside tap, so no problems there. We've got enough rain to not have any use for that! For a couple of reasons really... One to save money. We're have a baby belfast on wall brackets so i thought if I've already done the work to remove the current sink, fit the brackets, etc. it might make for an easier cheaper job. And secondly , it will give us a chance to decide on what height is best, whether we want taps on some kind of backboard, or chased in wall taps. It's all a bit hard to imagine as is, so hoping to remove it so we can have a play around... Do you mean where the tap connects to the sink? I think I might have one of those spanners... I'll go check. Thanks for the quick and helpful replies, much appreciated
  10. Hi folks We're looking to replace the small corner sink in our WC. We want to remove it before the plumber comes so that we can put in the brackets for the new sink and get things ready for the new connections. Luckily there are isolation valves beneath the sink. But because the plumber isn't coming for a few weeks, I wanted to check in here what's the correct way to disconnect. Get it wrong and I guess I'll be reaching for the mains stop cock and calling the emergency plumber - something I want to avoid!! So with the isolation valves turning the supply off, is it just a case of unscrewing the nut? Or would it be safer to leave the nut and cut the pipe above? What are the chance of getting it wrong and flooding the house?!?! A couple of photos below... Many thanks
  11. Many thanks for the further replies and help. I'll give them another tap with that in mind @Hobbiniho Thanks for explaining In terms of Welsh vs Cornish vs Scottish, etc. I think I'd best stay out of that. I love living in Wales, but I'm not Welsh. In fact, I'm originally from Luton and I don't think there are many slates from that town! So suffice to say that Penrhyns are a great slate tile, even if not best in the world. But when it comes to cars, you can't beat Vauxhall
  12. Hi again We went to the reclamation yard at the weekend and picked up some matching slates for the patch up work needed. I'm guessing it is hard to tell from photos, but I wondered whether anyone can tell what condition they are in? I read that they are supposed to ring when tapped; these certainly don't. But then I also read that not all old tiles will ring like a bell. I could try a short video of me tapping them with a hammer and post it to Google Drive? Are the size of the holes and the damage around the holes a problem? The reclaimed ones are also a tad larger; just by a few mm. Will that make the roofer's job more difficult or is that quite normal and expected? Any thoughts before the workman comes to fit them would be much appreciated. Thanks for all the help
  13. Thanks Vijay, but we don't want to paint the bricks as we like them as they are. As for the heatproof mortar, I did find that and thought to begin with it was what we need. But on closer reading I think this is for inside open fire places, for fire bricks, and that kind of thing. IE - where temps reach the 1000C+ mark. On top of that, the vitcas mortar says "It is also not suitable for use as a rendering or gap filling material." I'm thinking standard normal mortar will be fine, but just not sure whether to use sharp or soft sand, plasterciser or no plasterciser, ready mix, etc. Cheers