Jde00

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About Jde00

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  1. It's a small development, with only 4 houses like mine and all 4 have different values for air tightness. However I understand your point and I will be doing one as soon as the builder finishes up some stuff. For example the back of the toilets have not been finsihed by the decorator so there are quite big gaps where air can get through.Lots of mastic left to correct too...
  2. Should you seal around spotlights ? My house is full of them. I think I have close yo 100 spotlights. And the ceiling is like a cheese grill. You can clearly feel air coming out of the fittings
  3. Yes traditional block and brick. so having a current value of 5.8 is it worth exploring improving it?
  4. Hi, My new build has a reported tested air tightness of 5.8 m³/h.m²in the EPC. I don't see any obvious sources of draughts other than perhaps the back of toilets which will be addressed shortly. How else can this figure be improved? I quite like the idea of retrofitting a MVHR system at some point in the future. Cheers!
  5. and I just noticed I should have posted this in the MVHR forum
  6. there's no way I'm doing myself I have a good builder who's the husband of a colleague and he doesn't know it yet but I have him in mind for a long list of jobs in the house Going back to one of my original questions. I assume that since you have continuous air flow, you don't need to open any windows but if you were to open one, can you pause the system to avoid wasting energy? We are bit peculiar and do like sleeping with the window open.. Crazy European things...
  7. Ha! I have no idea what I-joists are. I can ask the builder but doubt they'll even reply. I think assuming we can fit the main unit where our water tank is, most rooms are easily accesible. Not all though. This utility closet is in the first floor, within a couple of meters of two bedrooms and family bathroom. Right over the kitchen. Master bedroom and en-suite right above. We have a walk in wardrobe too. The hardest pleace to reach in my opinion is the living room. I suppose I could try to insert a camera through one of the spotlights and see what the ceiling looks like in terms of joists
  8. The thing is that we think the passive trickle vents is not the best option for an ASHP system that relies on slow flow temp. Whenever we open the vents we get draught and it feels cold, as a consequence the ASHP kicks more often than really needed. This a house built by a small developer, it wasn't self-built.
  9. Hi, I live in a recently built 3-storey home, this house is fairly well insulated (floors could perhaps improve as we have vinyl on concrete slab downstairs) and has a air tightness score of 5.8 m³/h.m² The windows are equipped with the usual trickle vents. The utility room and 3 bathrooms are equiped with timed extractor fans which are quite noisy and not very useful. We have an open plan kitchen/siting area and the hob extractor fan doesn't seem to cope well with smells as the entire sitting area usually smells of food and stale air. as I said the house is well insulated with good air tightness values. We have ASHP for central heating and hot water and really love the system. I hear a lot of people talk about MVHR systems, and I quite like the idea of having fresh air renovating in the property. I do have some questions. My main objective would be to renovate air in the house, I'm not necessarily looking to improve energy efficiency as it's already quite good. Can this be retrofit into a fairly decent new build? How would it be installed? If hte unit goes in the 1st floor I can see how the ducts could easily go into the ground floor ceiling and throughout the first floor, but we have our master bedroom and en-suite bathroom on the second floor so not sure how the ducts would go up there. Is the system less efficient if we keep a window ajar during the night? that's how we currently keep fresh air in the bedroom, but perhaps with a MHVR system we won't have to? Are the systems noisy? I understand the system would take air from the wet areas (kitchen and toilets) filter, heat exchange into fresh air from outside, and distribute that air to the rooms. But would the system distribute fresh air into the kitchen area as well? I'm in Cambridge.. any recommendations who I can ask?
  10. Very good point, I'd agree with that observation on the lockshielf valve based on the temperature achieved. As I said my sweet spot was very very small. Probably worth installing TRVs even though the heat pump manufacturer doesn't recommend them.
  11. I think I got it !!! Changed the heating curve to a -1 degree offset. Shut off the studio radiator off completely and restricted the guest bedroom and the landing radiators to as low as I could get it without the rads making the hissing noice. Set the heating temperature aim in the ASHP to 21 degrees. Voila! downstairs is 21 degrees, floors aren't stone cold anymore, upstairs is decently warm 21-22 degrees, office is slightly colder to 20 when unoccupied but as soon as I close the work and get to work it goes up to 22-23 which I can deal with by opening the window a tiny bit. I realise the temperature right now is not as cold as previous days but it feels as though the heating has stabilised somewhat and I'm not loosing heat by reducing the temperature aim to silly low levels. I've also looked at the degree minute graph and it looks much more stable in the last 2 days or so. Let's see how long it lasts!!
  12. Thanks Yes, the radiators are bled and have no trapped air. I will try if letting the hiss stops when the radiator is hot.
  13. Hi all, Reporting back from testing for a couple of days. I seem to have no margin of action with these radiators. I begin by closing the lockshield valve entirely, let the radiator cool down. Then I open in 1/4 increments, and the first two quarter turns I hear a hissing noise which I assume is the heating medium flowing through. I can continue to 3 quarters and the hissing noise stops, let the radiator stabilise but it gets hot, almost as hot as if the lockshield valve was fully open. I can't find a sweet spot where the radiator is functional but slightly colder without making a loud hissing noise. I'm really puzzled with all of this. I'm thinking of calling a ASHP installer to seek advice on the whole ASHP+radiator central heating system. Could it be that the rooms that are cold have undersized radiators and that's why they are cooler to the touch to begin with, rather than a problem with balancing? I suppose I could take temperature readings of the water coming in rather than of the radiator top.
  14. To be absolutely honest I have no freaking idea where the maniford is. I would guess that it is either under the studio floor or by the cupboard where the SMO and water tank are. I've asked the builders and plumbers and no one could tell me.
  15. Thanks - I'm going to try this out. I'll go one room a day. Funnily enough, I completely closed down the radiator in the study and the temperature is still 22-23°C. The room is right next door to the water tank and I believe is surrounded by all pipes (the ones going to the ASHP outside) and the manifold that distributes the water to all radiators. I'll follow this but it could be I don't need a radiator here at all! I can't really mess anything up as I can just return to the way it was before by opening up all valves. I assume installing TRVs require me calling a plumber?