nh26302

Maybe I'll get him to remove the bonding and if possible to fix hardie backer then go with that otherwise, will get him to sand cement it. For fixing the backer board, is it better to use PB adhesive or adhesive foam? Also, for fixing the anchors, is it just a case of drilling a 6mm hole through the board once it has been fixed with adhesive and then push these fixings through it and fasten? https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylon-hammerfix-6mm-x-40mm-50-pack/57635 Thanks

Thanks.... What would be better, apply a skim to the bonding or replace bonding with sand/cement? Also, which would dry quicker as I would like to get the shower room functioning as soon as I can. Many thanks

Thanks Nod, As the area is small, I was thinking of maybe getting him to remove the bonding and just sand cement it instead. Would that be better than skimming or is skimming the way to go? Thanks

Hello, I had had a shower room tiled around 3 yrs ago with natural stone tiles and recently noticed one of the tiles had moved out. Just got a builder in to have a look and basically all the plaster behind the tiles (and adhesive) has crumbled away. The plan initially was to fix a hardie backer board and tile onto that but when the builder removed the affected plaster there is a brick wall and he said it's not possible to fix the backer board and as it had been bonded previously, he removed all the loose bonding and has just put bonding on it again and said he will be back in a couple of days to fix the tiles directly on to it. By chance, I was searching on line and came across a few posts suggesting that fixing tiles onto bonding is a no no. The bonding is currently drying and I'm wondering what is the best approach going forward....should I get him to skim over the bonding with multifinish and then wait a couple of weeks to dry before tiling? I've also read something about using a primer like sbr on the bonding and then tiling on top of that? If that works, is it just a case of "brushing" the bonding with the primer, letting it dry and then using tile adhesive to fix the tiles onto it? The builder had also asked me to get pva which he brushed on the brickwork before applying the bonding (not sure if he also mixed it in the bonding) but it seems like pva is also not the way to go from what I have read? The affected area is around 1sqm and this is what has been bonded (again). It was initially thought that as the bottom tiles were affected, maybe the silicon wasn't applied properly between and the bottom tiles and the shower tray and this caused water to seep through, however, thinking about it, it is probably the fact that it was bonded before and the tiles being natural stone also allowed moisture to seep through? Anyway, the builder is back Tuesday and I would really appreciate advise on the best way forward. Thanks in advance

Thank you all

I will be using the ultra slim LED downlights which have a depth of ~30mm - wouldn't the 100x25mm be cutting it to fine to be able to install them? To clarify, I was thinking of using 50mm x 50mm battens

I will be using the ultra slim LED downlights which have a depth of ~30mm - wouldn't the 100x25mm be cutting it to fine to be able to install them?

Wanted to have downlights on the ceiling, hence the use of battens to create the void

Hi, Have posted this on the SIP forum but thought I would also post here.... I have a SIP outbuilding with a vaulted ceiling and need to attach 2inch battens to the roof for fixing plasterboard (to skim). The roof panels have 11mm OSB and need advise on how best to secure the battens to the ceiling? I have seen suggestions of simply using 70mm wood screws and also using the black phosphate drywall screws together with PVA glue to ensure a greater pullout resistance? Thanks in advance

Hello, I have a SIP outbuilding with a vaulted ceiling and need to attach 2inch battens to the roof for fixing plasterboard. The roof panels have 11mm OSB and need advise on how best to secure the battens to the ceiling? I have seen suggestions of simply using 70mm wood screws and also using the black phosphate drywall screws together with PVA glue to ensure a greater pullout resistance? Thanks in advance

Great, thank you both!

Hi there, No, it's the actual brick. Here is a link to the product - https://www.forticrete.co.uk/products/architectural-masonry/linear/splitface Also below is a picture of the brick and how I want it to look.... Many thanks

Hello, I am looking at getting some masonry stone to build a small feature wall in my garden no more than 3 courses high. The bricks are the split face linear bricks from a company called Forticrete - in diamond white. I was wondering whether it would be possible to lay/fix them with an adhesive rather than normal mortar as I would prefer the finish of not seeing the mortar between the joints? Thanks

Hello, I have bought a new flush veneer door to use as an ensuite bathroom door. https://www.diy.com/departments/exmoor-flush-oak-veneer-internal-door-h-1980mm-w-762mm-t-40mm/5059340254777_BQ.prd I want to paint the outside of the door in a black colour, the wall has been painted in a matt black paint as the plan is to make a feature wall (and concealed door) using 19mm x 38mm battens. The black wall/door is just to show up the gap between each batten so was wondering what was paint was best to use on the veneer door? Thanks in advance

Thank you all for your responses...timbers have now been removed and gaps made good with concrete