Russell griffiths

Who is doing the render ? who is providing a warranty for the render? these are the people who should be specifying the board placement.

Buy it on the plastic round spool, fix a 3inch nail to the end, wind it up every time, if you don’t wind it up it’s your own silly fault.

That’s a fairly standard way of doing the walls by many timberframe companies. I wouldn’t worry too much.

Maybe, but that doesn’t make it right. Have a look at a topic on here of window heads deflecting and stopping the sliding doors working. Looking at those pics,there’s not a lot I like really, just stand issue poor timberframe construction. If your happy following that then then just rip a plywood packer to make up the difference.

As above what does it say on your bc drawings. I doubt very much if you can use timber over the 2700 openings, I think it will need to be steel, the deflection in timber will be huge. I also don’t think the 150 deep timber will be enough for any of the openings, the strength is in the depth of the timber, I would have thought 225mm would be better.

Certainly first coat, then fit ceiling then skim it all.

Your membrane option is best, ask the plasterer, but you could include a strip of stainless mesh to trap the mesh to the block work and allow the plaster something to grab to. Also why not plaster up higher so top edge will be above false ceiling, then you can put your mesh up high and any fear of cracking will be above ceiling height.

Kick them out as soon as you can, you will do them no favours keeping them at home.

Didn’t bother, have just filled the holes in and running a longer lead on the table lamp, we felt that if we ever moved the furniture we would be left with this socket in the floor, so decided against them.

What was his reasoning that it wouldn’t comply.

Isn’t this something your electrician should be specifying

Is £70 for the piles or finished floor at dpc level. My costs. Excavation work £6000 pile mat £1500 Piles £12,000 ringbeam £12,000 blockwork £3500 floor beams £4000 block infill £1500 Labour £6500 that was then ready to stick the icf house on top. Piles went down to 6m house size 240m.

My thoughts are stick to what the structural engineer said, then design in your insulation.

No. 40 is course 240 is fine. The number is the amount of grains of sand in one square inch of sandpaper.

If he’s this lazy now what’s going to happen later. Tell him to chop it off and fix back to solid brickwork, if he whines then send him packing, you have had a lucky escape. Show him manufacturers guidelines. If he said this is what we always do then again you have picked the wrong team.

Where did you get that picture? the problem with pictures is it doesn’t tell the full story, the picture might be nice but it could be horrible to live with. It doesn’t look like a robust solution, just a detail to come back and bite you down the line. I would want a small folded aluminium trim to cover the top of the brick, it might not need to project like a cill. Bricks are very porous.

Gaffer tape Patrick my boy. Flanges only needed for a gas membrane not for damp proofing.

Nice to see you cut out around the windows, so many put a join here that cracks. ?

As above, why block bond it, starter track bolted on.

Did you want metric, Will this line up with fixing points, most osb is still imperial so 2440x1220, metric is slowly coming through.

No, but ours was in a very dark chocolate colour and the water marks left after you put a cold drink down where a pain, continuous polishing to keep it clean. We had a cream colour in the laundry that didn’t show a mark. When end I had samples delivered I poured all sorts of weird stuff on it to stain it, never happened.

You need to connect back to the inspection chamber not the middle of the pipe, imagine a blockage past the point of that join heading towards the island, there is no way to direct a drainage rod to veer off and go up the junction to the blockage. Imagine a blockage at the point the (N) is in the word island, no easy way to get to it.

That looks right. It is normally easier to just yank that fitting and chuck it in the bin, new fitting straight on.

That’s just 10%, wait until you start ordering insulation and stuff.

Do you really want to start it in a rush ? pay £350 odd and re apply and get another 3 years to make up your mind, do you think it would get turned down. I have re newed an application 3 times now and still not built it. Probably wont re new again.