NewToAllOfThis

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  1. I scraped as much moss off as I could and then sprayed Wet & Forget. Didn't kill or remove the existing moss but I have found there is a lot less new moss but this could just be to do with the weather.
  2. We are starting the build on our new house soon and the company supplying the piling and steels have asked for a VAT number or Certificate to prove that it is a new property that we will be living in so that they can bill us VAT free as they are supplying and installing. The company are saying that they need proof otherwise they will have to pay VAT. Has anyone else had to do this or how can you prove that it should be VAT free
  3. I have been told that there cannot be a gap between insulation and plasterboard as condensation would form in the gap?
  4. Our House design includes a vaulted roof, the rafters are 215mm deep. Plyboard will be fitted on top of the rafters and then insulation applied from below. It will then be finished with plasterboard. I have been told that it has to be full insulation between the Plyboard and plasterboard so I am wondering how do I install electrical services for the lights.
  5. Just got a quote from Protek, thought it was going to be a lot more, we are in a flood zone. selected £10,000 hire plant for scaffolding and toilet, is this enough and what other hire items would I possibly need. £2 million Public Liability. Property size 120 square metres, over two floors. Reinstatement Cost: £150,000.00 Duration: 12 Months Premium: £301.33 IPT: £36.16 Total Cost: £337.49 Hired PlantOwn PlantSite Huts & CaravansContents of Site Huts / CaravansPublic Liability
  6. Thanks for the replies, will probably have to buy new as have no means to collect them and second hand prices seem to be almost the same as new.
  7. Hi All, I am trying to find out what fencing is required around the site. All I have at present is a 1 metre high fence along the left hand side of our boundary. To the right hand side there is no fence but there is a workshop at around 6 metres high belonging to my neighbour. The road is a private road and a dead end, although people do walk along the road and there are no signs up saying private road. I currently have two of the metal fencing units around 3.5 metres wide by 2 metres high going along the front of the property where the new house boundary ends together with a gate and a piece of 2 metre high fence. I guess I will need to bring the metal fence closer to the road and join it up to where the current 1 metre fence ends, but will I need to place a higher fence where the 1 metre fence currently is and will I need to put any temporary fence along the right had side and if so will I need to run it the full length or can I use the Neighbours workshop and run the fence from the ends of the workshop. Is it better to buy the fencing and sell it afterwards or is it better to rent.
  8. Thank you for all the replies, mixed view of comments regarding if Red Oxide or Galvanised and also price. I have asked for another quote to see what they come up with so it will give me a choice of three. I was told that I will need to check with the building inspector as he is likely to have a view as to if they have to be galvanised. At what point can I get a building inspector to provide advise as to if he will allow Red Oxide or require galvanised steel. As mentioned, the beams will sit on steel piles, these will not be protected at all. It is estimated that they will be 14-16 metres deep into the ground and then 500 mm above ground. The ground is constantly wet from around 500mm below the ground. Will these not rust faster than the beams if the beams are covered in Red Oxide. Also should the 500mm of the piles above ground have any treatment.
  9. Hi, It is for supply only, the steels are 203 x 203 x 46. Approximately 70 metres of steel, also a number of connecting bits, not sure of total as some beams seem to be split into 2 or more sections< i guess to keep steel to suitable lengths. quick count looks like 20-25 joints
  10. We are having piling with Steel ring beam that will be around 500mm above soil level. Block and Beam on the steels and then a timber frame. I have had two quotes for the Steel Beam, one has said it has to be Galvanised and the other said it can be either Galvanised or Red Oxide. Reading through Google, there seems to be a variety of views, not sure if they are all based on UK so building regs may depict what has to be used. Galvanised adds another £2200 on to the price, Red Oxide £4500, Galvanised £6700 None of the steels with be visible when the property is completed so doesn't matter about the looks. Has anyone any experience of this.
  11. Thanks for the replies so far, so if I need more than 90mm of insulation what is the next size of brick after 150mm. Without underfloor heating what is the sensible thickness of Screed
  12. We are have Beam and Block on A steel Beam and a timber frame building. The Frame provider has recommended blocks of 140mm sat on 10mm of mortar creating 150mm height. Then using 90mm of insulation and 60mm of screed. We are not having underfloor heating, is this a sensible buildup of insulation and screed? Are 140mm blocks available or would they need to be cut to size. Looking for suggestions and information as to what others have done
  13. Just looked at Solidor, shame the designs are fairly basis, any other suppliers that can meet the £2k price but with some imagination to the designs
  14. Hi All, Originally it was thought that the sewer was at the edge of the Road but it has now been found that the Sewer pipework and all connections run within Neighbours Front Gardens. The Sewer and all pipes are owned by Anglian Water. It is around 1 Metre on to their land and they have a gravel drive and no wall but they are saying that as the sewer is on their land they are demanding a fee of £1000 plus all costs to restore their garden and driveway to connect to the sewer. Is this legal and if it is can they ask for any fee to connect or is there any set amounts that neighbours can ask for.
  15. Just had drawings back from timber frame company and it shows a number of SHS ( Square Hollow Section). They are no diagrams showing how they are fixed, would it sit on the sole plate or is that part cut away and it sits on the block and beam. Will it have a plate so that the weight is distributed.