Jump to content

NewToAllOfThis

Members
  • Posts

    80
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

NewToAllOfThis's Achievements

Member

Member (3/5)

2

Reputation

  1. Hi, We have UFH with liquid Screed on the ground floor that has been sanded to remove laitance. We are looking at having Karndean flooring. W On the first floor, 22mm Norbord “Cabershield+” particleboard with a heavy duty PU coating on 600mm wide Posijoists. We have just had our first quote for installing Karndean and they want to lay ardex primer and a 3-4mm coat of ardex N/A latex screed. On the first floor they want to lay 6mm ply on the 22mm particleboard. Is it correct, or could the Karndean be laid directly on to the floor surfaces?
  2. Yes should have said flat but also smooth. Looks like I have plenty of filling and rubbing to do. Can over sanding bring out a rough surface as taking off the smoothness created by a trowel and wet plaster
  3. I was told that Anglian Water were realy strict so I bought the insulation from JTM plumbing that met their requirements. Stopcock and stop end required at pipe end outside where connecting to the meter as it said the red stopper that came with the water pipe was not acceptable. I didn't connect anything beyond the stopcock as nothing else was requested by Anglian water. They classed it as full service not building supply and all they want is to inspect once everything is connected up. When the person came to inspect, he didn't check the external end for the end cap, didn't want to see the insulation and just passed it. Strange they insisted that the pipe should be embedded in sand, when they connect from the road to the meter, they didn't use any sand, just shovelled the same material they removed back in. We now have water
  4. How smooth should I expect the plaster to be that has been applied to a new plasterboard installation. Where the wall meets the ceiling and internal corners of walls feel rough compared with the main run of the walls. One wall as you run your hand along it you can feel it is wavy and more noticeable where the joints have been taped. Should I expect to have to sand any of it and expect to do a small amount of filling ? Once it is painted will it look better or worse than when looking at just a plastered wall.
  5. I know not an answer but similar topic and probably 'teaching your grandmother to suck eggs' but maybe useful to some on here. I have just run PEX for radiators upstairs so ran them in the ceiling and clipped to Posi joists with the 15mm copper clips with no problem. I haven't fitted the radiators yet but have managed to run the pipe in the service void and put a sharp 90 degree bend on them so they can be connected directly to the radiators eliminating any hidden joints and keeping everything off the floor and avoiding the skirting. Make sure you use a spring bending insert, available from Screwfix and do a few practice bends with bits of spare pipe if you need a tight 90 degree bend. Make sure you get the PEX to radiator valve connectors rather than generic type as they are slightly different sizes.
  6. Hi James, I am doing something very similar, with UFH ground floor and radiators upstairs, not installed yet so can't say if it is the correct decision After viewing some youtube videos and talking to Wunda, I am going with two manifolds, one for the UFH and one for the radiators. Each radiator will be fed separately from a port on the manifold although you could feed each room off one port if you have more than one radiator per room. Going with this solution as easy to drain each radiator individually if required, Room thermostats to control temperature of upstairs rooms rather than TRV's, Running plastic pipe to each radiator so no joins to worry about, It can all be controlled by a single app Will it all work and was it a good decision, who knows, has anyone else taken a similar approach ?
  7. Hi, We are having UFH and liquid screed on the ground floor. The hall and other rooms will be Vinyl but the shower room will have 16mm Floor Tiles. Is there a solution to get the finished height of the Floor Tiles and Vinyl at the same level.
  8. Hi, Had two designs for UFH, this is the ground floor as we are building a 'Topsey Turvey' house, one went around fixed furniture such as Wardrobes and the other had pipes under the Wardrobes. I have attached the design that runs under the furniture, the comment was that the room designs could change in future and therefore pipes run around the whole area. Looking for comments as to the runs and would you run under furniture that is unlikely to change due to the room shape. All the pipes run out through the small bedroom and under the wardrobe, is this normal. The route the pipes take are through door openings, we have stud walls and can go under non supporting studs that divide the boiler room and bathroom, is that possible or is it better to run via door openings. Both designs and many other designs I have seen use what I understand is called 'single serpentine', reading articles on the internet the 'double serpentine' and 'concentric layout' seem to offer the best evenly distribution of heat. Is there a reason why the single type seems to be the most popular. Finally, if I make any changes to the routes, will new calculations be required, is the information used to calculate overall efficency of the property or is it a document building control will need. Thanks Colin
  9. Single Oven integrated mounted in Tall enclosure, can not decide which is best, Pro's and Con's for both welcomed
  10. I need to get the 110mm waste pipe through the beam and block floor that is on piles so there is around 500mm between bottom of block and ground level. Do I just drill a hole wide enough for the 110mm waste pipe and then seal the DPM around it, cut PIR around the pipe and then have the liquid screed poured so that it seals round the pipe or should I install a 125mm pipe and PIR and screed around that. I would then be able to insert the 110mm waste through the 125mm pipe and seal that so that if it ever needed replacing it will not need the screed, PIR and DPM to be repaired.
  11. Why do all the designs I have seen run the pipes as what I understand is is called Single Serpentine, rather than the Double Serpentine or Concentric Layout. To me Single layout doesn't seem to distribute the heat evenly or is there so little change in water temperature from when it enters to leaves a loop?
  12. I need to bring the water mains above ground to run under the house that is on piles, 500mm between ground and Beam and Block, from my understanding reading Anglian Water information I have to provide 100mm ducting from before the start of the house and run it the full length to where the pipe enters the house and install insulation in the ducting. I only need 8 metres to be insulated and ducted but looking at the flexible blue ducting it is only sold in 50 metre lengths online. Has anyone experienced local supplier selling it by the metre rather than 50 metre roll. I know that some ducting pipe is sold in 3 and 6 metre lengths but it is rigid and impossible to bend and I will need to bend it through at least 45-60 degrees in approximately 300mm radius. What insulation have you used and the thickness of the insulation, any recommended web sites to purchase it from. What solutions have people used that has been accepted by their water supplier.
  13. Both will be fitted to toilets, shower and sink waste will be connected inside the house to the same pipes. I have to had a chamber as building control said that two toilet wastes can not be connected by just using a Y connector
  14. We had to paint on fire protection on to our cladding, it was a pain as we had to put two coats of fire protection to gain the 30 minute required. Had to do it by hand with a roller and then brush it to get a smooth finish. Also whichever fire protection paint you use make sure the cladding will meet the fire requirements, we had to have interlocking wood cladding, featheredge was not suitable as most do not interlock and fire can sneak through the gaps, it also has to be a minimal thickness at the thinnest part of the cladding. We also had to use fireboard instead of OSB on the outside of the timber frame. Can you use cement board cladding as this has a class 0 rating, we couldn't due to where we are and planning only allow wood cladding.
  15. Trying to plan my sewer connection, after watching some youtube videos I thought I had it worked out but speaking to building control he said I couldn't have any tight 90 degree angles, they had to be 45 degrees or wide sweeping 90 degree angles. I have come up with a design that has one of the wide sweeping 90 degree bends angled on its side at 45 degrees and then a 45 degree bend so that it can take a pipe vertically into it. Any comments as to if this would be an acceptable solution or and other ideas please.
×
×
  • Create New...