Russell griffiths

If you have the height use 200mm eps and save 40-50%.

Concrete on site 8 am sharp, pumped in by 10, levelled by 12. Powerfloat 4 pm.

Just hirer one you will only need it for one day. get the edges shuttered up to the correct height then hire a spin screed. You will need a concrete pump and four guys. How wide is your place.

I don’t see this as much of a problem, not sure why you need to insure the site hut, add in tool insurance if you want and plant insurance, but I have generally found that in 35 years of building related work I have only ever made one claim for a trailer I had stolen. Minor thefts from site you normally take it on the chin as after you pay the excess it’s hardly worth the bother. If its worth more than £500 it doesn’t get left on site.

Do not buy the 150 it’s horrible to cut.

Need to find a good decoupling membrane, floor is traditional sand and cement screed tiles will be 1200x600 porcelain. Any recommendations for a good one, would rather spend a couple of hundred more to have no problems with it. Any thoughts @nod cheers all.

Do you not need a structural topping to go over your insulation? i thought you did, or have you changed the floor build up. As nod said you can pump the traditional screed, my lads where fantastic and would cover your area. I would allow £22 a m to supply and lay yours, maybe a bit more if area is small, as they need to allow for travel and setting up the pump. The lads I used came from Swansea and will travel to you.

Should have a folded trim behind the timber to prevent water tracking backwards.

I used the knauf omni fit, you could make a coat out of it, not scratchy at all. I have a load of rockwool acoustic here and fitting it today I’m seriously considering throwing it all in the skip. Roofwise i did 200mm omnifit then 70mm pir under the rafters.

Anybody that uses rockwool needs the head looking at, it is the most hideous product known to man and needs banning. Knauf on the other hand is a pleasure to use.

If laid in bays you need to mesh between the bays, or you can get a lip if one moves.

It will crack, end of. Plastic sheet underneath will not stop it cracking, what it will do is stop the concrete drying too quick especially in this weather. You will need saw cuts every 5-6m so you can make it crack where you want it to crack, you need to provide a weak spot or it will just crack where it wants. Blinding not needed, very heavily consolidated base, then plastic, then mesh as designed then concrete.

I thought that, but wondered if @pocster would understand, so decided to keep my mouth shut.

Did you send a drawing .? if not then you will need to put it in the pile with the drive on glass.

Do your own research. Im currently working on 3 icf houses, they all have their faults. Some issues are bigger than others. Cold bridging at reveals, poor airtightness, inaccurate blocks, hard to cut. The list goes on and on, you need to decide what items are ok and what needs major remedies to make a better system. And do not listen to the salesman, you want a rep who doesn’t care if you buy his blocks or not, he gets a sale by the product not his fast talking.

Why have you gone for a 762 door, far too small in my opinion. I would also say your rough opening is tight, doesn’t allow a lot for packing out the door lining.

Remember to buy your osb so you know what size it is, if it’s imperial it will be 1220mm wide not 1200. You should use a full sheet on the corners.

That’s standard, your roof has sagged, but the section over the party wall hasn’t. You would need a roofing carpenter to strip all your rafters to take that bow out, adding thousands to the job.

@Nick Laslett windows detailing, rubbed down, filled all gaps with PU sealant and a finger, two coats of TT gas proof membrane, this allows lots of other products to stick to the paint, I found it very hard to get anything to stick to the eps. Then windows fitted, masking tape applied around windows allowing a 5mm bit of frame to show,then gaps filled with illbruck foam,Foam cut and trimmed back, then illbruck air sealing paste, squirt on and smooth with a brush. Buy 20, 1 inch paint brushes and chuck them every other window.

If your a bit handy do it yourself, at the end of the day it’s peeling the back off some tape and sticking it on. I would even trust the wife to do it. £3000 buys you a third of a kitchen or a nice bathroom. I had the sega rep come to my job he came in a van with every conceivable tape they made in it, he cut off lots of different types and did a demo with them all to show how to apply them. I will hazard a guess that I spent £350 on materials to seal mine up.

Various, I had a 25 ltr tin of gas tight paint left over so I used two coats of that, also blower proof paint.

1 day liquid screed 3-7 for traditional if they have used a retarder to stop it drying to quick.

I went a bit ott with mine but I got a good airtest the other day. Every gap and joint squirted with some form of sealant and then painted over with an airtight paint.

65 days unless he’s using a modified cement product to mix it with.

I would say you would need 120mm on top of timbers, but you need someone to crunch the numbers for you. You don’t have insulation between the timbers on a warm roof, in between and on top or underneath is a bit of a hybrid, my extra insulation is underneath, Dave’s is on top, many ways to skin a cat, you need it to work in your situation with the height you have to play with.