Mr Punter

Egger Protect is good quality flooring and I have never had problems with tolerances. Regarding the height issue it is well worth getting a topographic survey incorporating the neighbouring buildings and a setting out engineer so that you avoid these issues. Very good that they were not focused on eaves height! Regarding PV we have sold a bungalow with a north facing shallow mono pitch roof and the purchaser had PV installed to the same pitch. Apparently it did not impact that much.

You may find the stud walls make the room seem a bit smaller. We have frameless glass shower screens which make the most of the space. Also a large mirror is good and useful. Where are the actual WCs? Did you look at wall hung WCs and vanity units? Again, because more floor is visible the room appears larger.

Why not just cut out a bit of plasterboard at the bottom?

We rent a villa in Portugal and they have used this extensively. It has discoloured and some areas have lifted. It was apparently very expensive.

I have heard this done with a tennis ball / swingball.

Will the room have no window? Even if the regs do not apply I would not be happy to have no way out other than past the car. You may be working on the car in the winter with the garage door closed.

I think you may struggle to get drywall screws longer than 100mm. If you go down to 60mm insulation it will be far easier. Hold the insulation in place with the drywall screws plus penny washers and drive them beyond the face of the insulation. Do all the insulation first and tape the joins with alu foil tape. Make sure you carefully mark the rafter locations at the top and bottom. I prefer 15mm plasterboard.

You also need to consider cost, speed and ease of installation and required floor finish. I had a quick look at the Wunda site and was surprised to see they showed a solution involving notching the top flange of an I joist floor, which I thought was a no-no.

Hello Sam and welcome With vapour control layers the convention is to place them on the warm side of the insulation. You should maybe do away with the membrane against the wall as it may trap any moisture which would be better to diffuse out through the stonework. Just make sure the VCL over the studwork is properly fitted, lapped and sealed. Regarding insulation, Rockwool may be difficult to keep in place if it just open studwork, whereas pir can be foamed in securely.

I have used these in a sloped roof covering 2 dwellings and yes, they are expensive. I got mine from Envirograf. They may be able to give advice on what product. I am not sure they would be all that effective with timber cladding, as they need to get fairly hot to expand, by which time the fire may have gone beyond the fire stops. Again Envirograf should be able to let you know.

Toupret filler is very good and easy to sand. You will need to fill and sand a couple of times.

I thought that MgO was normally used for external sheathing instead of OSB. Was it scrim taped and coated with multi finish?

They work fine with compressible insulation.

If you have rigid insulation it is difficult to make it fit snug to the closer. I know they act as a vertical DPC but why not just bring the cavity insulation to the edge and have a strip of DPC up the sides? The cavity closers do hide a multitude of sins (mortar snots, missing insulation, uneven cavity width, missing wall ties) and make plastering simpler and Building Control seem to like them.

Stick down is more expensive and time consuming, but a much more solid feel. If you DIY, do three rows at a time, loose lay first with everything cut to size, mark the area and remove the boards. Apply adhesive to the marked area and lay the boards into it. Keep everything clean.

Good point @TerryE but how would this work in a cold loft house, where it seems like the top floor ceiling plasterboard is the airtight layer?

I am not keen on the weird pan connector sizes and the number of adaptors needed to make them work. We have done quite a few with a flexi and left a bit of room so you could take the pan off and replace the flexi if needed. You seem to get a fair amount of tiling tolerance around the pan connector but almost none at the top of the flush pipe.

Removing the flush plate gives access to the cistern so you can change all the components without being a gynaecologist.

A while ago I read that to get the required permeability you had to drill a load of 2p piece sized holes all over the OSB. With the Scottish type softwood boards they have a gap between. Now it appears OK to use normal or T & G OSB. Not sure what changed.

Now installed. It is so much quieter! Stir-fry test tonight...

We have used 90mm black MDPE for this. Comes on a coil and difficult to manage without special equipment but OK on a hot day. We joined the lengths with a compression fitting.

When I get samples I like to try to scratch them, smack them with a hammer and try snapping / bending and burning with a lighter. It doesn't indicate the effects of the weather, but it can give an indication of robustness. The corrugated stuff looks quite shiny. Will it dull down?

I have seen some fantastic houses in ICF, timber frame and brick and block. All are capable of achieving very high levels of comfort. There are pros and cons to each.

The same firm charged £3,740 per house for 2 houses 10 years ago, but they were a bit bigger. All were just mains fed - no tanks or pumps. I guess there is some economy of scale with multi units but maybe prices are coming down as it is more common for these to be specified.

We had 7 houses designed, supplied, fitted and commissioned and it worked out at £15 per sq m - £2,485 per house.