Mr Punter

I thought that was just for paving...

You would need EPS about 50% thicker than Celotex to get the same insulation values.

Google says https://www.jewson.co.uk/tool-hire/power-tools/fixing-equipment/products/3301/paslode-ppn35i-positive-placement-nailer/

I think smash off the tile and start again. You don't really want a cut edge at the bottom anyway.

This one was well received by the planners and quite a compromise from the architects original proposal. A similar form to the next door house but a modern look. The owners have put planting at the front so the house now looks distinct from the front wall.

Even on big projects I never see these used. On recent project we had about 800 hangers and they hand nailed the lot!

I have seen pictures of buildings in Japan with this finish. Very striking. I would not want to brush past it in my wedding dress though.

Perhaps get your device to forget the BT hub SSID as it may be trying to connect to that. I have 2 Unifis in a 4 storey house and they work flawlessly.

I am not sure why you are cladding over the render? Be aware of fire spread if the building is close to any boundary. Natural timber weathers to grey which is not to everyone's taste. You can coat it but it needs frequent re-coating. You could look at some of the pre-coloured cement cladding options. If you go with timber, it is just decide what you like and shop around for prices. The suppliers can give useful installation advice. Can be installed by a reasonable pair of chippies.

This bit of the Building Regs is nonsense. All that needs to be done is a letter from you stating "Notice under regulation 37 that water consumption is less than 125 litres/person/day using fittings approach”. Spend no more time on this!

You need a continuous gap from eaves to ridge for airflow to prevent condensation. Perhaps use 75mm Celotex cut between rafters with 25mm air gap above. 50mm Celotex under with ali tape over joins and finish with plasterboard. It won't win any prizes for low energy but is fairly cheap and effective.

You could pave the half nearest the house and have a step or 2 up to decking at the back, where you could have a properly fixed rotary washing line. Dig out where you are paving and put that under where the deck will be. Consider keeping some borders / planting pits. A bit of effort on design will cost next to nothing and the finished garden will be much better.

Looks pretty awful and may have been better had it been a proper step, say, 150mm high. The fact that it taper does not help. I would have gone for ramp, but at least a bit of tape shows you have done something. A pissed person, someone carrying a tray or someone taking a step back at a party look prime candidates. If anyone is all three, odds on you get sued!

No DPC below the foundation. The base plates were bolted to the foundation with grout under and bitumen coated to above FFL. DPC on the blockwork to support beams for Beamshield floor, DPM, mesh and concrete topping.

I once built very close to a boundary wall and had to modify the wheelbarrow with a club hammer to make it fit down the alleyway to do the back gardens.

What an epic job! Are you tiling the whole ground floor? If it was my choice I would have the corridor looking right as it is such an important part of the design. Are you doing anything special with the ceiling / lighting / skirtings along this? Before and after pics please. Chop chop!

We have some steel with columns built off the foundation. Engineer originally asked for the lower section to be meshed and concreted but we asked him to amend so he just spec'd 2 coats of bitumen.

Agree with @ProDave that you have really put yourself at risk. Bear in mind that you may be personally responsible if anyone on site is injured and you have not ensured that the work is adequately planned and carried out to ensure safety. Falls from height is the big one to look out for.

As I understand it, any drain which has more than one connection is adopted by the drainage authority, so this would be included in that. Request a sewer plan (small fee required). You will need to fill out the form from Southwest Water for a new connection. From what you say, this would be via a new manhole which you would build to their standard spec. As it is on private land you do not need to use a streetworks approved firm to do it. If you plan to build over or near the drain a further approval may be needed.

Salmon fishing?

Remove the ceiling and insulation. If possible, stick 75mm sheets of Celotex to the concrete underside with low expansion foam. Foam any gaps and seal joins with alu tape. Cover with clear polythene vapour barrier with all laps sealed, held in place with 38mm x 50mm battens as service void, fixed through to the concrete with insulation fixings. Finish with foil backed plasterboard.

No difference as long as they confirm they are treated. I think for roofing, battens must be graded to a standard as the roofer will rely on their strength to support their weight when working.

I have done a hidden gutter with a zinc roof. We built the substrate including falls and they did the waterproofing. For your roof, maybe you could do the gutter and, say, 600mm up the slope in GRP, then tile over. The ali copings are as much decorative as anything and a number of firms will supply these made to your spec. I quite like the ones in your example being at the same angle as the pitch. Any chance of you going to Prestbury to have a chat or stick a note through the door? Not sure what you had in mind for downpipes?

Looks like a great project in a lovely location. What is the plan for the walls?

You could demolish but it may be enough to strip the place disconnect services, remove the roof and windows and ask the valuation office to remove it from the list.