Mr Punter

The one on the left. You want it so it sits flush and the screw is a bit into the insulation as if the screws are left proud the plasterboard may not sit flat.

Try these guys http://www.stevevick.com/services/water/pipe-handling-equipment/ and your water authority. I have seen people really mess up GSHP loops and it can be a real wrestling match if you do not plan it properly.

CT1 is a pain to get a neat finish with and it discolours. If you use masking tape you have to have a bead a fair bit narrower than the tape gap. Just use the tape to stop the smearing being too excessive. It looks a lot of silicone in there. Do you have a pic of it after tooling?

I would be getting a quote from @Bitpipe's contractor.

Did you look at the Kalzip type aluminium roof? Not for DIY but a very good product. They use a machine that they walk alongside and it zips the seams together.

Try ahmarra.co.uk who are based in Portsmouth. They make to measure. Oak veneered fire doors about £145 plus VAT. They also do doorsets. We had solid oak frames and linings but this was £250 extra.

Another thumbs up for the ceiling. This detail is fairly standard on prime London new builds, refurbs and conversions. https://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/find.html?locationIdentifier=REGION^61229&includeSSTC=true&mustHave=newHome

If you can connect to a surface water sewer and do away with the harvesting system you will save lots of money and grief. I have a friend in the water industry and it is just so much more economical and efficient to deal with industrial volumes. For domestic harvesting, I would just go for water butts.

Yes. Outward opening composite windows. Timber inner frame, ali sash. I like the unified sight lines so that fixed, reversible, side hung all look the same with a 50mm profile. Also look at Ideal Combi which is very similar. I cannot give either firm more than 6 out of 10.

Are you using OSB sarking? If this is a normal tiled roof it should be good for 70 years. How old are you? PU is really messy. If you are concerned about battens coming loose use better fixings.

ICF seems to have really taken off with Buildhubbers lately. Maybe even more than timber frame. Wrt the rainwater harvesting, where will the water go after the tank? With surface water you should go for 1)Soakaway 2)Surface water sewer 3) Watercourse 4)Combined sewer 5)Foul sewer. You may need to provide evidence (site plan and percolation test) to your sewage undertaker. Your attenuation tank may help but it could easily fill up.

I would just unscrew the bottom board and trim it.

Egger Protect is good quality flooring and I have never had problems with tolerances. Regarding the height issue it is well worth getting a topographic survey incorporating the neighbouring buildings and a setting out engineer so that you avoid these issues. Very good that they were not focused on eaves height! Regarding PV we have sold a bungalow with a north facing shallow mono pitch roof and the purchaser had PV installed to the same pitch. Apparently it did not impact that much.

You may find the stud walls make the room seem a bit smaller. We have frameless glass shower screens which make the most of the space. Also a large mirror is good and useful. Where are the actual WCs? Did you look at wall hung WCs and vanity units? Again, because more floor is visible the room appears larger.

Why not just cut out a bit of plasterboard at the bottom?

We rent a villa in Portugal and they have used this extensively. It has discoloured and some areas have lifted. It was apparently very expensive.

I have heard this done with a tennis ball / swingball.

Will the room have no window? Even if the regs do not apply I would not be happy to have no way out other than past the car. You may be working on the car in the winter with the garage door closed.

I think you may struggle to get drywall screws longer than 100mm. If you go down to 60mm insulation it will be far easier. Hold the insulation in place with the drywall screws plus penny washers and drive them beyond the face of the insulation. Do all the insulation first and tape the joins with alu foil tape. Make sure you carefully mark the rafter locations at the top and bottom. I prefer 15mm plasterboard.

You also need to consider cost, speed and ease of installation and required floor finish. I had a quick look at the Wunda site and was surprised to see they showed a solution involving notching the top flange of an I joist floor, which I thought was a no-no.

Hello Sam and welcome With vapour control layers the convention is to place them on the warm side of the insulation. You should maybe do away with the membrane against the wall as it may trap any moisture which would be better to diffuse out through the stonework. Just make sure the VCL over the studwork is properly fitted, lapped and sealed. Regarding insulation, Rockwool may be difficult to keep in place if it just open studwork, whereas pir can be foamed in securely.

I have used these in a sloped roof covering 2 dwellings and yes, they are expensive. I got mine from Envirograf. They may be able to give advice on what product. I am not sure they would be all that effective with timber cladding, as they need to get fairly hot to expand, by which time the fire may have gone beyond the fire stops. Again Envirograf should be able to let you know.

Toupret filler is very good and easy to sand. You will need to fill and sand a couple of times.

I thought that MgO was normally used for external sheathing instead of OSB. Was it scrim taped and coated with multi finish?

They work fine with compressible insulation.