Mr Punter

I would have expected the channel at the bottom to go right to the end of the glass. It looks like there is indeed a gap underneath. Maybe cut out the raggedy bits of silicone and (as per the Fugi bloke) clean up with meths before reapplying. I haven't noticed a bracket like that on a shower screen before.

It is more building regulations part L that is used to improve energy usage standards although some LAs have standards exceeding those and will add them as planning conditions.

If you strip the roof (including structure), take out all the internal timber, and the windows and doors you could get it removed from the rating list without it prejudicing your chances for a replacement dwelling.

If you want to have this removed from the rating list you need to ask the valuation office, not the local council. From your description I would say there is no chance. I understand that they ask "Having regard to the character of the property and a reasonable amount of repair works being undertaken could the premises be occupied as a dwelling?" If the answer is YES then you will not get it removed.

I don't think the eco slant will hold any sway at appeal. The sustainability they are looking for is stuff like walking distance to amenities, bus stops etc.

Yes, VCL. You can run a condensation risk analysis if you are nervous about it. It may be that at some times of the day and year in some conditions there is a condensation risk but I doubt this will be serious.

Quite a challenging ski run!

If the builder fitted the steels as per drawings they may have hoped to have all signed off and be on to other tasks, so are loading the extras quote as "compensation".

Why not ask him to quote labour only?

This sounds expensive. A bit more info would be useful: Who fitted the steel(s)? Who did the design? Is this a solid wall or a cavity wall?

Epic job! Did it need 6 people? Could you have made do with 3 with the decoiler? We did a fairly short run (100m?) of 90mm in cold weather and it was a real fight for 2 of us.

I was going to reply earlier but @JSHarris has it spot on.

I can't see any issue with brick and block. Does the PV need to be 3 separate systems? How much did they quote to put gas in? If you ever want to sell these individually, I think the PV will complicate it.

The one on the left. You want it so it sits flush and the screw is a bit into the insulation as if the screws are left proud the plasterboard may not sit flat.

Try these guys http://www.stevevick.com/services/water/pipe-handling-equipment/ and your water authority. I have seen people really mess up GSHP loops and it can be a real wrestling match if you do not plan it properly.

CT1 is a pain to get a neat finish with and it discolours. If you use masking tape you have to have a bead a fair bit narrower than the tape gap. Just use the tape to stop the smearing being too excessive. It looks a lot of silicone in there. Do you have a pic of it after tooling?

I would be getting a quote from @Bitpipe's contractor.

Did you look at the Kalzip type aluminium roof? Not for DIY but a very good product. They use a machine that they walk alongside and it zips the seams together.

Try ahmarra.co.uk who are based in Portsmouth. They make to measure. Oak veneered fire doors about £145 plus VAT. They also do doorsets. We had solid oak frames and linings but this was £250 extra.

Another thumbs up for the ceiling. This detail is fairly standard on prime London new builds, refurbs and conversions. https://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/find.html?locationIdentifier=REGION^61229&includeSSTC=true&mustHave=newHome

If you can connect to a surface water sewer and do away with the harvesting system you will save lots of money and grief. I have a friend in the water industry and it is just so much more economical and efficient to deal with industrial volumes. For domestic harvesting, I would just go for water butts.

Yes. Outward opening composite windows. Timber inner frame, ali sash. I like the unified sight lines so that fixed, reversible, side hung all look the same with a 50mm profile. Also look at Ideal Combi which is very similar. I cannot give either firm more than 6 out of 10.

Are you using OSB sarking? If this is a normal tiled roof it should be good for 70 years. How old are you? PU is really messy. If you are concerned about battens coming loose use better fixings.

ICF seems to have really taken off with Buildhubbers lately. Maybe even more than timber frame. Wrt the rainwater harvesting, where will the water go after the tank? With surface water you should go for 1)Soakaway 2)Surface water sewer 3) Watercourse 4)Combined sewer 5)Foul sewer. You may need to provide evidence (site plan and percolation test) to your sewage undertaker. Your attenuation tank may help but it could easily fill up.

I would just unscrew the bottom board and trim it.