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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Because the lounge and kitchen are open plan it looks OK.
  2. Ask your joist designer for a maximum deflection of 12mm or 0.003 x span (whichever is least). That will resolve any bounce issues. Actually just looked back at what we spec and it is the lesser of 8mm or span x 0.002, so a fair bit stiffer. Timber plate attached to the wall is fine for 1.) and 3.) It is normally cheaper to top hang than use hangers. You will probably need blocking in between to stop twisting. With 2.) you may be able to replace the steel with a glulam or posi which could make running services simpler. Joist hangers are rated according to the loads and the floor designer should specify. Some are universal so can be faced fixed or wrapped over.
  3. I think this depends on the vehicle. The turning circle should be enough to work it out. The swept path is probably more useful for trucks.
  4. BS 5534 is def what you want for roofing. The ones in the photo are not. They allow a depth tolerance of +3mm - 0mm, so between 25mm and 28mm, which those in the picture do not seem to be. Also, as @JSHarris noted, the knots would rule them out.
  5. "All battens must be stamped with information identifying the origin, size, supplier and conformance to BS 5534"
  6. Also should be stamped BS####. Get John Brash or similar so you know they have been correctly treated and graded.
  7. And you could look at doing a new style for your own lovely locks!
  8. Good to see kitchen units with handles.
  9. I quite like aluminium coping. Lightweight, easy to fix and looks quite smart. Quite expensive though.
  10. This is James Hardie Linea for the horizontal and HardiePlank for the vertical. It is smooth finish as I am not keen on the "woodgrain" look.
  11. Some of the picture of the wall shows it to be absolutely soaking. Is it supposed to have a coping on top?
  12. I have 2 section ones that are 3.7m closed and 6.24m extended. Light enough for me to handle and fully extended they just skirt the border of new underwear required.
  13. Having services on site will save about £10K. I assumed you would have to strip out everything above the top of your ground floor walls. I also assume replacement or thermal upgrade to ground floor. You will not be able to occupy until works are almost complete. If this was a loft conversion and extension it would be possible to stay while works were carried out as much of it can be isolated until the new stair opening is made or the new opening from the existing house.
  14. I doubt the timber frame supplier will be interested in much more than supply and fit timber frame which is probably no more than 20% of the project cost.
  15. The next step is probably to work up the existing plans and spec to the stage where you can send out a tender package and get some quotes from local builders. If you then find that you have too much cash left over, you can consider doing the additional works. Because you are doing so much to the property I think you will need to vacate as it would be unsafe and impractical to do otherwise but again your builders will let you know.
  16. Assuming all new plumbing, heating, ventilation, electrics, windows, doors, joinery, kitchens, bathrooms, flooring wall and ceiling finishes I would budget £1,200-£1,800 per sqm, so £240-£360k plus the garage. Allow 18 months and for it to be unoccupied.
  17. I have used Tyvek FlexWrap for cills and also for pipes through walls. Works well as it is elasticated enough to stretch around corners.
  18. Have you had anyone quote to do this work and let you know how long it will take? My feeling is that it will be slow and expensive. Get the figures pinned down as early as possible and perhaps compare this to moving to a larger house. I am a developer and it is very rare that a bungalow to house conversion would work financially, and I am able to reclaim the VAT in any case.
  19. Why not demolish and rebuild?
  20. Automatic gate controls I think. There is still some room for some more stuff if you pack it tightly. Maybe some ethernet stuff or CCTV? At least a couple of double sockets, just in case.
  21. It is nice that they put "Appeal Allowed" right at the beginning! Happy days.
  22. I assume your appeal failed because you are 150m outside the settlement boundary. Half a mile to the nearest facilities is not really what they are looking for and I doubt in reality if anyone in the 4 houses travels anywhere other than by car. I have however seen a case where the developer made a contribution to a cycle path, included some social housing and was consented a scheme outside the boundary. I know you feel you have been robbed but you gambled £4500 with the hope of a profit of £150,000 and it did not come off. Who owns the 150m of land? If you went in jointly with them with a scheme to do multiple units it could be a useful windfall site for the LA. If the LA are keen, you could go with it, if they are not, you could re submit similar to your current application, perhaps a small bungalow, as it would then be the lesser of 2 evils.
  23. This product has been withdrawn following the Grenfell Tower fire. The cavity wall product was not at fault but was part of a group of similar products, one of which was used as part of the failed cladding system, so Celotex withdrew the lot. Xtratherm do a similar product called CavityTherm, and it make no special claims as to fire resistance.
  24. Result! Any chance you can post up the appeal decision?
  25. Rendered inside, facing brickwork outside.
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