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Mr Punter

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Everything posted by Mr Punter

  1. Mr Punter
    No it should be easy enough to have it start lower down. Show him the picture above of the proper job done by @Thedreamer so he knows what is expected. If it makes a mess inside it may be down to you to make good plasterboard and decs.
  2. Mr Punter
    If you are bothered you could offer to buy a replacement roof window and flashing and get him to swap them FOC.
  3. Mr Punter
    Wow it looks like it has been upholstered. Probably matches the sofa.
  4. Mr Punter
    Or this nailed to the studs https://www.insulationshop.co/600x2500mm_galvanised_steel_rib_lath_sheet.html
  5. Mr Punter
    I don't like the small cuts round the Velux on the right. Slate and a half would have been better. Only 3 so maybe they were short of supply.
  6. Mr Punter
    Normal screed - compo sand and cement - when laid properly 75mm gives an excellent solid level and flat floor with or without UFH. It does not need sanding or priming and you can lay any floor finish. The reason it is not more widely used is because it takes more skill than the liquid stuff so you cannot get untrained monkeys to install 1000m2 in a day. You can mix on site or have it mixed and delivered and with or without fibres - I would choose with.
  7. Mr Punter
    I would doubt it would cause an issue but maybe alert him to your concerns. Planting trees down the centre of a shared drive sounds unusual.
  8. Mr Punter
    As per @Russell griffiths it needs to be non-climbable. Cover the top part in broken glass and razor wire to make it safe.
  9. Mr Punter
    Maybe a 1.5 storey chalet style with pitched roof would be better? Can you get a sketch scheme done and have a chat to the planners? Make sure it looks good. If you made it, say, 6.8m x 6.8m you would have over 70m2 of floor space, 1.6m from the rear and side boundaries and be 21.6m from the existing house.
  10. Mr Punter
    As above, if you are a self builder, CDM does not apply. F10 would not apply anyway. Make sure your contractors do their own risk assessments, are fully insured and supervise their own workers. If anything is requested (alter scaffold, supply electric etc.) make sure it is done but that is is still up to your contractors to verify that it is safe. HSE are not interested unless something goes wrong.
  11. Mr Punter
    It can sometimes be a bit tricky to find room for these, especially with full height windows, doors, steel columns, wind posts and services. With your brick bond make sure you leave lots of space with a bigger lintel on the inner leaf.
  12. Mr Punter
    With concrete piles they often do pile integrity tests to make sure there are no defects along the length of the pile. I think they connect a sensor from a tablet and tap the pile with a mallet. Somehow this tells them a fair bit. They do it for every pile. You may also need concrete cube tests.
  13. Mr Punter
    I think it is good to have some DPC on the outer leaf wrapped around to the back. Other than that, @tonyshouse method seems to work OK.
  14. Mr Punter
    I think they tend to work better if all around, not just opposite walls. 12 is not many and it would be a shame if BC picked you up on it.
  15. Mr Punter
    Recessed would look best I think as you do not need it to be weatherproof. I like the way the coursing works in with the ceiling, cupboard and beams. Well done.
  16. Mr Punter
    It may be worth talking to Building Control as they will probably be familiar with the soil type and typical pile type in your area. A Mackintosh type probe would probably reveal if the clay continues to full depth. It is a manual device and would be far cheaper to do. You can use the NHBC depth calculator to work out strip footing depth or whether a specialist foundation is required.
  17. Mr Punter
    Some of the resin type stuff is rubbish if you drive over it. Worth overspeccing if it it taking vehicles, as delivery lorries etc may drive over it. The slot drain stuff looks very neat. Plastic stuff like RECYFIX PRO 100 is decent and will take high loadings if installed to spec.
  18. Mr Punter
    You could DIY an overlay UFH system on ground floor only. If the house is well insulated you will not need anything upstairs but you could get a portable fan heater and use it for 10 minutes for the exceptional days. Heated electric towel rads on timers in the bathrooms. The gas combi seems more attractive though.
  19. Mr Punter
    Yes but you are a sparky. Big ceiling with lots of spots and the plasterer will not thank you for covering it with holes.
  20. Mr Punter
    It is a nice looking design. I like the dormer type windows, which I guess is vernacular style? Is the cladding brick for the rest? How do you support above the "extension" roof?
  21. Mr Punter
    Why not leave them. Measure and mark carefully on a drawing, tuck the wires up so they don't get caught later and drill the holes when he is finished and after you have painted the ceiling?
  22. Mr Punter
    One more bad work from you and I will send round some highly trained cats to crap in your garden.
  23. Mr Punter
    There you go. Five minute job. What was all the fuss about?
  24. Mr Punter
    I once put grey aluminium half round on a development. It ended up looking similar to plastic but was 10 times the price.
  25. Mr Punter
    Nice, but expensive and may attract thieves. Does it go green or is it coated with something?
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