Mr Punter

It looks like a good candidate for external wall insulation which would work well with you render and new window aspirations. Was the back insulated or just rendered?

Why the change? You need to look at this in the context of the overall design and decide.

1) Normally line the glass up to the centre of the insulation. 2) How to do this depends on the ICF and the external finish.

It is a pretty bad design. You could try replacing the seal with another. Some have fins that stick out to deflect the water. The one you have does not look great anyway.

Doh! I meant 32 degrees - the same as the roof

Can you pitch the stairs at 52 degrees or get rid of one of the winders at the bottom? I appreciate it will throw the top landing forward 240mm.

Really? I have just had a digital building survey done on a site I am buying. No issues.

Decent enough effort. Are those tile levelling things good?

In England and Wales the Land Registry are sticky about this as you need to transfer part of the land to a new title and they like the transfer to be to another party, as it can cause issues granting rights, covenants etc to yourself. Hopefully it is simpler in Scotland.

Example flint work near me. Some considerable craftsmanship with some.

I looks fairly flat. If there is not much topsoil you may want to strip it, pile it up elsewhere, create the levels by cutting the subsoil from the high side and filling the low side, then spread the topsoil. It is still good to leave a bit of slope to stop waterlogging. Perhaps consider a finished gradient of 1 in 40.

I think they deliberately take the piss and create shortages. I saw a draft letter to the govt. from the big suppliers threatening shortages early on before lockdown unless they got a wedge of money. It suits them to inflate prices. Like the brick shortage where you had to book them in 4 months in advance. They have had the same with blocks. Then we get them from elsewhere and later the UK supply magically comes back.

I think the small concrete pumps are more forgiving than the Schwing lorry pumps. They are often run by smaller operators and the kit is cheaper. It takes a while to set them up but they may be cheaper if you need a few pours and get on OK with the operator. Not so fast and furious.

I have had 7 kitchens from DIY kitchens. They are OK quality and good price. 4 damaged units. They do the annoying you have x days to report, which is not great when you are held up by other trades. The delivery times are pretty random. I have been phoned at home at 6:00PM to hear they will be there at 8:00PM or the following (weekend) morning. I normally keep the site hours at 7:30AM to 5:00PM and it is annoying to have to drive back when I am about to have dinner. I rate them 7 out of 10 mainly because they are cheap, ready assembled and average quality.

I have never had 10 newton blocks specified. They often spec wind posts to add strength / support.

I thought the grip-it thing went bust? Toggle fixings and the interset type expanding anchors (with setting tool) are pretty good as well.

Standard large garden shed.

You can go up to 30 square metres with no building regs, although if it is more than 15 square metres AND within a metre of your boundary it needs to be made mainly of non-combustible materials.

If the noise is so bad that you have had to move out you may need to take legal action against him. Firstly I would contact the council again and ask them to visit, as at least that will not cost you, whereas legal action will be thousands.

Sometimes it is handy to be able to get a mop bucket under the tap, so size height accordingly.

It is well worth buying a couple of drainage plugs for testing and isolating. https://www.screwfix.com/p/bailey-steel-drain-test-plug-100mm-2-pack/62513 The expanding foam was a bit mental.

I have not really followed this thread but the boarding looks tidy. Is it to be tape and jointed or skimmed?

Is this mesh the rolls of expanded metal lath? You can also get some stuff that looks a bit like train track that goes in the mortar bed. You can use it to make brickwork act like a beam or lintel.

I am about to build 3 new flats and considering making the ground floor fully wheelchair accessible but the cost is quite considerable. I will do some research on the prospect of enhanced rental values before I decide. One issue is that some features that are desirable for a wheelchair user are a nuisance for able bodied. There are lots of ambulant disabled people who will appreciate the level threshold though.

I can promise you that the roof was not designed to take in water. If you add pir type insulation above the rafters and re-roof, the roof structure will stay warm and dry. I have seen sheep wool insulation destroyed by moths, even with boron treatment.