Mr Punter

Look at compatible sold values. Ask a couple of estate agents. Look at values per square metre in the area. 2 easiest ways to mess up are overestimate the GDV and underestimate full costs.

Is it part of their Taliban range? Who thinks up these names?

Hi @Spainy86 and welcome I do this sort of thing for a living. The most important factors are (1) the achievable sale price (GDV) and (2) the costs (land, stamp, build, fees, finance). It is also important that there is a ready market for the finished units at your GDV, otherwise you will be sitting on them while all the time unable to move to the next project (as many on here have experienced). Work out the profit you need and hey presto you are a developer.

Travis Perkins? Otherwise maybe just a case of waiting a few weeks.

I once had some places sprayed with this and any bits of overspray on wooden floors was almost impossible to remove once dried. Not soft like normal emulsion. It is more scrub clean than wipe clean.

I would have thought that BC would now only need to do a completion inspection. Ask them.

The mist systems are OK for just a kitchen but BC often want whole house coverage, which rules them out on cost grounds. Also, although people are concerned about water damage from sprinkler systems, they do not activate without a fire. Leaving a fire to burn unchecked or having the fire service attend to extinguish a blaze will cause a lot more damage than a single sprinkler head, which is all that would typically deploy for a fire.

If you liaise with the tenants it may be better to do it on the basis that you would like access in order to fell the tree. Do not ask their consent to fell as they would not be able to give it. You can tell them that you have been in contact with the landlord and he is aware.

If that is the case you could fell it. You won't hang for it, especially if you have attempted to constructively engage with him and he has not reciprocated.

Why? You are building on your own land.

If you concrete in the timber posts, slightly overfill the hole and haunch the concrete up the base of the post so it helps shed the water and slows down rot.

As above, you need to make every effort to contact him with a view to removing the tree to enable your development. Be very polite as you may need to rely on the correspondence later. Point out that the tree may cause damage to your property. Offer to remove it at you own expense and provide the details, insurance cover, risk assessments and method statements for your proposed contractor. Offer reasonable compensation to cover replanting of a tree in a more suitable location plus an additional amount. If you are unable to gain their consent, cut back the branches and roots to the boundary. If the tree dies after pruning it would be down to the neighbour to prove it was because of the pruning. You could offer to cover the cost of removal of the dead tree and replanting as above. Court action would be cost prohibitive for them and any award in court would likely be small.

I have used a masonry saw to cut a load of halves. You can do 4 at a time. A pallet of bricks is fairly easy to do and you get two good halves. With fibre insulation +-10mm will not be any problem, although 100mm does not sound like it will give a very good u value. @tonyshouse used 300mm on his place!

So maybe 600mm max to the base of the foundation from existing ground level. They will not be able to dig down 1m adjacent to the wall without risking it collapsing. Can you not just park your car parallel with the house and just dig out part of the garden?

Your neighbour seems to have a car parked in their front garden. You could do the same as them without so much excavation and within your budget by just parking across the front.

Cobra duct rod would be better than drain rods as they are slimmer and normally over 100m. Feed in nicely and don't tend to get stuck.

Strong backs run at right angles to the posi joists and work a bit like herringbone strutting or blocking in that they stiffen the joists. They can interfere with services like ventilation and drainage.

I have sometimes negotiated extended included rental. In reality it is transport, erect and strike that costs them most. If they need the scaffold for elsewhere there is an opportunity cost for them, but good for him for not charging.

Keep them short. Steel v timber beam deflection can be the same. Depends on the specs. It is simpler to fit stuff to beams. Specify a maximum deflection of 8mm or 0.002 x span (whichever is least) and the floor will feel really solid.

Paslode im350 nail gun, stapler.

The expensive front doors have a similar feel to expensive car doors. Both work fine, but an S class merc has a nicer feel than a Fiat Panda

I am with @Ferdinand. Either a 450mm gap or none at all. You will not normally have any right to have any part of your building on or overhanging neighbouring land without agreement.

500mm sounds really thick. Maybe wait for the spec from the SE.

Can we play guess the price? Me first RRP £4,500 You paid £1,700 Let me know if I am close.

I have a Combimate and it seems OK but not scale free. We are in a moderate hard water area. They are fairly cheap and quite easy to fit. I think they help prevent Coronavirus and bubonic plague too, which is helpful.