Mr Punter

Looks like made ground. What's the mesh stuff about?

Yes, new covering. It is normally junctions where the leaks are, so make sure these are included, not let to "others".

https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/110mm-1125-degree-single-solvent-weld-socket-bottom-offset-bend.html

Site investigation is not commencement, so you are fine.

Got backache looking at this. Did you have someone to mix up and barrow?

If you can get the concrete in, great. Same with TF. If we are waiting months to sort out the virus issue we will be back in the stone age and fighting over rats.

I notice the spec is for A393 mesh top reinforcement. Is there anything specified to stop it sinking to the bottom of the trench?

Make sure that you don't end up with any impossible to clean gaps. Either butt stuff together and mastic the gap or leave enough room to get something in to clean.

Be good to see it with the skirting as well. I am sure you have looked at floor finishes and whether they will go up to or under?

Great trademark!

I have found that some RAL colours seem to have a huge variation.

The main merchants have monopolised the market and this reads like a lame attempt to screw some money from the government while their wallets are open. Maybe I am wrong and they actually intend to offer logistics support at low or no cost, but I doubt it.

You could mix a small amount and try it as a test. I think it should be fine. Some cold weather due so make sure it is over 4 degrees and rising when you apply it.

Cheap and fine for fence panels but you get seem to get loads of paint in the air. I have only used one a couple of times though. Could be my lack of finesse.

The rebar dowels are fairly straightforward. I think you can use a bit of ply with holes drilled and locate it where the joint is. Push the rebar halfway so it is part in the excavation and part in the unexcavated soil. Concrete one bit, dig the rest of the trench and bingo. Never done it or googled it but I think that is the basic plan. Unless the plot is huge, you should be able to get all the concrete in in a day.

What sprayer was it? You need a high pressure airless sprayer for this sort of thing. They are quite expensive and you need to spend a lot of time on prep and cleaning out.

A great looking project. Well done. I have done bendy plasterboard but it was years ago. It was not scored like yours and it was not too fragile. Is it onto a polished concrete floor or is that a trick of the light?

It is easily done in higher density settings, though. I am not sure how much discretion can be allowed but have seem some schemes where multiple ground floor windows fail but the scheme gets consent.

I have only had 2 of these done - one cost £2000 and the other £720. They model the impact of the scheme on the windows of the adjacent properties. I think they may be even cheaper now. Often not needed if it complies with the 45 and 25 degree rules.

Discuss with your engineer. It could be fine with a strip footing. (S)he should be able to give ball park costs for the options.

The timber frame co should be able to give you a full set of drawings and calcs on request.

The floor often holds the walls together.

If you are using local authority building control, get the building inspector to visit and they are likely to have experience of foundation types where you are. If piles are needed they may also suggest piling contractors.

Is this a reduced level dig for a raft or for strip foundations?

I think you have answered your own question and if you are happy without one, that is fine. I use one all the time for roasts, baking, stir fry, even veg boiling. I have taken out the fan unit and just use the lights on the canopy plus ducting to an external extractor mounted in a plant room, so there is no motor noise.