Mr Punter

It would not be considered previously developed land just because it has a septic tank. It does not matter if it can be farmed or not but having it for grazing suggests it is not contaminated. You could use it as a camp site under the 28 day rule.

I am a bit confused here. Have you submitted a planning application? What was it for? Was it refused or withdrawn?

What a load of nonsense. This is just the network companies scaling down their non-essential works programme to focus on the main networks. There may be the occasional local outage perhaps as a result of a component not being replaced but it would then be a priority. This is not the 70s.

If you have to have hot water to a basin and it is a long way from the cylinder you could have an undersink heater or instant water heater. If you do go for a hot water return / secondary circulation system, make sure you spend time and money to insulate pipework as much as possible.

Looks like a lacquered finish and the lacquer has come off. Maybe they can suggest a suitable replacement?

If you want to obtain consent for a new dwelling where the septic tank is located, on the basis of it being previously developed land, I think the chances are very remote.

I am afraid the £23k is the way forward. Hopefully you have mains water?

Just had a quick look at the instructions. Your runner with the nut and bolt is the wrong way up. Not sure if it helps but probably best follow the instructions!

I don't like the phrase "I don't think I have ever seen a council try this before. ". It is vague and equivocal. If he is so confident, suggest a no win no fee deal, offering only to pay the Local Authority application fee.

That's a lot of dresses you have!

I think you can put the vent pipe from the below ground into a shrub border at the back, away from seating or dining areas.. Just a 600mm upstand with a rodent proof mushroom cap would do. Because it is vented to atmosphere you should not detect any odour.

Is there a high vaulted ceiling on the ground floor in that bit?

Looks good. Did you do the high bits off a ladder or scaffold tower?

You have a house in the green belt that the planners and the local plan want to protect from development. If it was simple to circumvent, there would be no green belt or protected countryside. I guess your purchase price reflected this reality. Have you asked a planning consultant to look at this?

Picture of the catslide side would be good...

It depends on the system design and duct size.

If you are tiling it needs to be flat, so check it with a long level and some packers to see. If you can easily slide a 5mm packer under in lots of places then it may need a fair bit of levelling compound. Localised bits the tiler will get over.

Bull floated should be fine if you are tiling.

From @AliG's experience it seems fine for large single skin walls without openings and nothing needing to be fixed to them, otherwise, not worth the bother.

And if you were caught you would rightly be prosecuted.

Correct. The water companies are not allowed to charge for supplies for firefighting / sprinklers.

You can also do this with normal or thermal blockwork.

If these were removed by a condition, you need to look closely at the wording and justification of the condition before applying to have the condition altered or removed. If you let us know we may be able to have a stab at this before you spend your money on a planning consultant.

If the water is connected, get the sprinkler guys to do a flow test early on, as the system design will assume a minimum delivery rate to the heads. Often the 15mm meter- which is standard for the water companies - is the bottleneck and you may need to get this changed for a higher flow meter. For others, it is worth considering 2 supplies - one for the sprinklers and one for the house supply.

The fittings and meter cost loads more for 63mm. Is it for a sprinkler? If not, stick with 32mm. The 63mm can also be a wrestle to install, especially on a cold day.