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Found 21 results

  1. We had the frame renderd back in Dec 15 / Jan 16 just after the frame was erected. System is 25mm battens onto the MBC exterior panel, 12.5mm Gtec Render board, 4mm Parex Maite undercoat with mesh reinforcement, 4mm Parex Maite second coat and 1mm Parex DPR topcoat. Application went well, they were very diligent, only working when the conditions were suitable and the finish looked superb when complete. They were back a few months ago to do the garage and some other areas originally inaccessible. However this last few weeks I've really noticed the outlines of the underlying boards, especially in direct sunlight and wondering why this is only now obvious and how to remedy. Want to get some wisdom here before engaging with the contractor (who I've always found fair to deal with). I'm wondering if it's just the accumulation of dust on the render or something more serious. Have to stress, there are no cracks or blown areas etc and the problem is consistent across the house.
  2. We're about to start battening, renderboarding and rendering our timber frame... the renderer has been pushing the structural engineer on whether or not we're required to incorporate compression joints into our huge swaths of render, and, having been somewhat vague about the issue, the engineer now advised compression/movement joints ought to go in. I've not found much online, but what I've come across is lines that run down or across the render which would tarnish the design of the house. Has anyone had to incorporate these into their build? Would you share pictures? and does anyone know what the guidance is on these? And whether they're necessary?
  3. Hi all, I'm building a retaining wall (gabion) that, when back filled, will result in a section of my house wall being underground. The external wall is rendered (bit damaged but i'm fixing that). Will render alone suffice if its now underground to prevent damp getting in, or do I need to be doing something else? Its impossible for me to tell what sort of damp proofing has been undertaken inside the house without ripping out panelling. Any advice is much appreciated.
  4. We are experiencing lots of teeth sucking regarding render and timber frames, which is a bit of a worry as we planned on the ground floor of our timber frame new build being rendered. We've had comments from numerous individuals which sum up to something like "you shouldn't render on a timber frame, far too much movement'" etc. Looking through BH it looks like there are plenty of MBC frames out there with render, is it lasting well? Is there a preferred system that will look crisp and smart for decades and can you invisibly repair it should the need arise? Is there a system to avoid at all costs?
  5. Can anyone advise me what this mini beam is that we have discovered in my cottage end wall? We are patching rendering and have found 2 small beams in the gable wall of my 1850s cottage. It is original. The one on the LHS is completely rotten, but I am not aware it has caused any structural failure or that anything has moved. I am not sure what it is for. It cannot be part of a roof truss as the horizontal is not all the way across - unless there is a type of semi-truss which relies on the joing from the beam to the wall to provide the strength in tension. It is to support any orthogonal joist as the other side of that wall at that point is a bedroom not a roof. It almost looks like a mini wall plate for the table wall. The wall is only half brick. As I cannot see any real issues, I am inclin d simply to tprake it out and full with bricks and mortar. Ant comments would be most welcome. As an indicator of how mini this house is, I think the top platform on @Mr Punter‘S scaffold tower is at about 3.7m. Ferdinand
  6. Well, it’s over. The company that did our render and cladding has finished and the final bill paid so the warranties can be issued. Now I feel I can blog about what has been an up and down experience. We started looking at companies to do the render and cladding before we had finished knocking our previous house down. The sales guy sat in our caravan in May last year. We felt we had got on top of this at an early stage. One issue we were really concerned about was the joins of the render with the cladding. We were told that the battens for the vertical mounted cladding needed to be a min 38mm but that fitting vertical cladding would require horizontal battens. So double battening needed. The sales guy guy got his render depth wrong (told us 25mm when should have been 19mm). That 6mm matters when you are trying to get battens to fit two different depths of final finish. Should have confirmed sales guy conversation in writing. Lesson learned. Confirmed every subsequent conversation. But didn’t notice that the company cocked up their calculations of area to be rendered / clad. So got a surprise demand for extra money at the end. The experience of the actual time on site can be summarised as follows: Delivery of materials was in mid November. Bizarrely, no one rocked up on site for a further week. Then, no one knew what to do with the materials that were there. Alarm bells were ringing loudly at this point. We had had outsourced the whole job to a specialist company so expected them to project manage it. A project manager was absent for most of the first two weeks with the guys on site working without any guidance with a render system they claim never to have seen. For the record, this was SAS ProWall and the company we used was recommended by the SAS people. Some of the workmanship was shockingly poor. This sort of thing - see the photos. Awful mess on the expansion joint mitre (which would remain visible) and huge variations in the render board gaps. It was down to us to raise this as nobody supervised their work. We had to raise issues a few times, including right at the end for remedial work. It seems it was too much to ask for someone to just do a good job. They all tried to take shortcuts or simply hadn’t a clue how to do what was needed. Half way through the job, one guy was let go. Good job as his efforts at fitting Cedral Click boards were pretty poor. The two teams (Estonian and Romanian) who then came in were good. Finally. The Latvian render team delivered a good final finish but it was a big effort from us to get them to focus on quality. Apparently they “render loads of low cost housing and no one really bothers with the finish”. So, the SAS system involves battens, then heavy render board (which they fitted the wrong way round to start with). On top of the board goes a layer of base coat with a mesh embedded in it. then it needs two top coats in the chosen colour (ours is white) and it has to be 5 degrees or warmer day and night for at least two days to do this. It was December. We were getting worried. But we have been very lucky with a mild winter and they got it all coated by the first week in Feb. It’s a slightly textured finish - hopefully visible on the photo. The Cedral click cement board has to be cut with a decent circular saw. It then has to be fitted so the cut edge isn’t visible. The boards are slightly overlapped and fitted together with metal clips. Each batten has to have damp proof membrane on it (they didn’t know this and we had to tell them). The strips for the ends are colour matched aluminium trims. We still need to silicone the window reveals. But it is done. We are pleased with the overall effect. And delighted that we don’t need to go through this any more or ever again. Difficult company to deal with. We got there but the journey was horrendous at times. Many sleepless nights and days of worry. Plus anger and frustration. But now we can look forward to getting the scaffolding down.......
  7. On this week's Grand Tour they went to Inverness. Clarkson just called render, but it would actually be what we call "harling" in Scotland or "pebbledash" in England "batter for houses" I have laughed out loud quite a few times on the train home.
  8. We have a long retaining wall in the garden which we wanted to clad in stone. The architect recommended a drystane effect but neither my wife nor I liked that idea and we wanted something less rustic. We ordered coursed sandstone and the builders have started to put it up, but the stone that came is just very very yellow. My wife has decided that she doesn't like it and I can see her point. She thinks the issue is that the sandstone pavers are not uniformly yellow. We thought they were going to be yellow when they were ordered but they ended up being mixed sandstone. For some reason getting proper samples out of people seems to be an ongoing issue. Last week we refused to let the driveway get done in resin bound stone until we had an actual sample that we liked and a full bag of it, not a 2 inch square sample in a box that bears no relation to the actual colour. Anyway, having looked at it I don't think the pavers are the problem, I think the problem is that the colour is too yellow and that it is too many different finishes. I suggested changing it to ashlar stone to match the house, however, having spoken to the architect he suggested rendering it with a sandstone cope to match the house. This I think would look the best but has issues with staining which is why we didn't do it to begin with. I have a picture of the part complete wall and a picture of a rendered wall with staining issues which we want to avoid. Thoughts would be appreciated.
  9. We've finally approved the drawings for our timber frame house and the erection is slated for January. Time to order our windows. The supplier and the price are both sorted, but something that cannot be agreed upon is whether the windows are installed before or after the house is rendered. MBC and Velfac are adamant the property should be rendered first. Our renderer says not. What has everyone else done in this situation?
  10. Hi, I completed a new build last year and was fortunate enough to be able to borrow money from family to complete the build, not I am trying to mortgage it and have hit a blocker on the fact that many mortgage companies don't like Timberframe construction with a modern render system outer leaf. We used a closed panel Timber Frame which was then battened out and had Knauf Aquapanel and Knauf render applied to it, I am told by various people at Buildstore this is one of the best Render systems on the market and I am trying to find people who have been through mortgaging these types of build and who they used for the mortgages. I find it so frustrating how Lenders are so far behind the new techniques which are often a necessity to meet building codes.
  11. Thanks to the recent discussion about render ( @gravelld's concern about the quality of his render) I have been given the courage to think about mine. Yesterday Gary wrote this ' .... Regarding the thickness As long as every inch is covered you will be fine .... ' here Taking a bit of scaffolding down today to get ready for our flat roof I saw this ... Little holes that I couldn't see when I was working a bit higher up...... And of course that means that I have about a million little holes to fill. Just need to find them now, that's all. Oh the joys of full on DIY self build. Thanks Gary. Appreciate it.
  12. I'm having an MBC frame with Velfac windows and a Parex render on my new house. Whilst they all promised to liaise with each other re: final aperture sizes at the time of booking, it's less than a month before we start and no one is willing to take responsibly for the final size of the windows. Velfac say MBC's aperture sizes need to be adjusted for the battening, cementboard and render as this needs to be done before the windows can be installed. The render company will not promise an exact thickness, and MBC are trying not to get involved. How do I ensure the window sizes are right?
  13. TL;DR: scroll down to "So my questions are about the render" or if you fancy a read about the context... We have a fully rendered house. The render is about 15 years old in its newest spots, maybe 20-25 years old elsewhere. The render is sand and cement. The problems with this are: It has popped (taps hollow) in the more exposed locations Rusted corner beads There are cracks everywhere Signs of water ingress in some of the worst places Numerous bits crumbling away around the bead at DPC level My original plan was to install EWI at the same time as also replacing the windows (which are also in a bad state of repair). The trouble with this is the cost. Not only in terms of the EWI, but in terms of what the EWI has a knock-on effect on. For example: Making sure EWI meets loft insulation Digging, parging, insulating below DPC Moving drains Bricking up windows that are overlapped by insulation Converting lean-to roofs to warm roofs. Moving the electricity meter Changing other services running in and out Probably replacing rainwater goods Probably replacing soffits/fascias I definitely intend to install EWI in the future. The reality for most people though is that this is extremely expensive. So I wondered what my other options were, and if I can make this project much financially tolerable for my family. Here's what I know I can do to plan for the future: Follow details to allow new windows to be moved into the insulation layer later Get the cavities fully filled (currently crap partial fill - will source some sort of foam... or something) If I have a lower initial project cost, I can spend a little more on quality for what I am actually buying, e.g. window quality If I were to not install EWI and just fix the render, I would want at least a decade, I would hope, to save for EWI with ideally NO maintenance in that time period. So my questions are about the render: Is there much point in "patching up" S&C render? What should I fill the removed sections of render with? Won't other areas go, or crack at the join between the two? Is it better to rip the lot off and start over with a modern render, e.g. silicone? Could we render over the top of the existing render? (This would reduce the space for insulation later if we also don't convert the roof to a warm roof at the same time). Would really appreciate people's knowledge on this one...
  14. How would you finish the render on these chimneys where the lead trays are. I can see the point of the folded lead but it doesnt exactly leave it easy or neat to render to. Could the fold be trimmed off and the lead meshed and rendered over? Advice welcome
  15. My neighbour has built a new block wall and I would like to render my side to tidy it up. I'm pretty sure my neighbour won't render his side and will leave it as exposed block. Am I wise rendering my side?
  16. Had the 1st spray render guy out today for a quote. Our house is ICF on a 450mm high passive slab with the DPM coming out between the raft and ICF. I was originaly hoping to have the render all the way down to the ground level, but the render guy told me I needed a bead with DPM coming out. With a stop bead and render both sides it doesnt look good which i agree. He suggested brick slip or painted for the DPM down. Has anybody used anything else for ideas?
  17. I need to crack on with our rendering / parging / slurrying. But it looks like there'll be a bit of a nip in the air soon. I have organised a cover for the parged / rendered / slurried area (well, I get moaned at if I get the term wrong ) Should I simply avoid the process in the very cold weather? Or is there some witches potion that we can add to the mortar mix?
  18. Can anyone give me suggestions for covering the rust showing on the corners of our front porch, in the render? I plan to give it a coat of white paint to freshen it up but assume if I just paint over the rust, it will soon show up. Its on most of the corners both at the front of the hosue on the porch and at the back on the kitchen extension. I wondered about Hammerite as better it has a slightly different shade of white than the rust. Or could I then paint over it?
  19. Hi guys, I am looking for a bit of advice on a external wall insulation system and where I can buy it. I am thinking of insulating part of my house and a recent extension (within past 10 years I think) which seems to have shocking insulation, part of the house I would just want to render over and possibly the extension would end up with Marley weatherboard or something on the external. I have seen this stuff going on, it looks very easy to install yet everywhere I look they want to sell and install the product. So, can anyone advise on a system and where I can get hold of it. Thanks
  20. Mr Bitpipe kindly let us look around his build a short while ago and we were very impressed with the render system he'd used - I think it was Parex if I remember correctly. Does anyone have any long-term experience of this system or can recommend a better one? Obviously pretty much everything looks great when it's first done but it's how it lasts over the years that I'm really interested in.
  21. Things have been moving forward last month with the render on the gable wall finished. I think it looks great and so I was able to get it painted as we have had such good weather! Three coats on the new bits and one coat on the rest. And the idiot that I am, I have no photographs of the finished work from up the scaffolding. You will just have to take my word that it looks really good! But with autumn here and winter arriving far too quickly, it was becoming clear that we needed to get some heat into the house. We had had a quote for woodburning stoves for the front and back rooms but it was for over £6k so we said no thanks. After much researching online, it seemed that while we could do it ourselves, we would not be able to certify the work and I found no one was willing to complete a certificate if they had not done the work themselves, understandably, I suppose. A friend recommended one chap who came to have a look. He quoted around £2,300 for a stove, liner, all the trimmings and the certificate. After looking aorund online, I found the same stove for £130 less than he quoted and he was happy to order it for me, and even had it delivered to his address which solved the access issue at ours. So we went with him. And I made sure I was there to watch how it was all done. Before the installation, he told me I had to raise the hearth by about an inch to comply with regs. I managed to remove the tiles, only breaking a few (they had been there for years!) but as we had found a pile of spares in the cellar I was not too worried. So after buying a bag of self leveling compound, I set about edging the hearth with some wood and after mixing it up, poured a bucketful of the compound onto the old hearth. I guess I should have realised that the wood round the edge would not work very well as it was sitting on tongue and groove. Groove being the problem! It was like that chap who tried to keep the tide back.......As fast as I sponged it into the hearth, it seeped out again. Luckily it started to set after 10 mins and after I pushed kitchen paper into the gaps, it stopped seeping out. And I guess thats part of the learning curve! I returned the next day and mixed up another bucketful and this lot stayed within the wood surround but it was too thick and dried uneven. By the third bucketful, I think I had it right. Not too runny and not too thick. It leveled out up to the top of the wood surround and I was happy to lay the tiles ontop. However, when laying the tiles, I ended up being two short! After visits to several tile shops and quite a few telephone calls I discovered its quite hard to buy hexagonal quarry tiles of that thinkness. But I was not deterred! I bought another tile of a similar colour and after making a cardboard template, I was able to cut two tiles from the one larger one and fit them in. Due to the variable colouring of the tiles, I dont think anyone will even notice. Particulaly as they will be under the stove. We will need to edge the whole hearth evenually but thats a problem for another day. Our intention is to have bamboo flooring thoughout the ground floor and we may try to edge it with something similar. So the chaps came on wednesday and after providing tea/coffee and biscuits (and toast for elevenses) in large amounts, they seemed happy enought answering all my questions. And to be fair, I think we made the right decision to get the professionals in. Following instructions from Online sites and YouTubes would not have been enough and we would not have been able to install it as well. so we now have a working stove! Unfortunatly due to circumstances, we were not able to light it till today so I was quite excited to finally get it going. And with the drop in temperatures outside, the house is really starting to feel cold. And later we enjoyed our first lunch sitting in front of the fire. The OH had been busy making a log store using a load of featheredged boards that I had found in a skip. Theyre around 3 ft long and they filled the car boot. so for the price of four lengths of treated timber for the frame we now have a great store outside for when we get more logs. Picture to follow of the finished article - I was too busy gazing into the fire! Things learnt - slef leveling compound does not go very far. It took two bags for that small area. And when doing the budgeting, I did not include costs for things like the compound and the adhesive for the tiles - all of which will add up to quite a lot by the time we finish the house. They are more expensive than I thought.