Nickfromwales

With the big players offering up to 10 I'd be reconsidering tbh. If it's the backbone of the installation then it's going to make sense to buy once with a unit which should give you 20+ years of service. Also, I'd want to be able to be near guaranteed for a like for like swap later down the line, rather than one which may slip off the radar / become 'parts obsolete'. Baxi / Vaullant etc aren't likely to be going anywhere soon In 23 years of doing this I've never seen or heard of them. Says a lot tbh. How long have they been est ?

Been looking at this boiler and apart from literally NEVER hearing of the make, it does what is says on the tin. Whats the warranty like?

It was all going so well, then I spotted the obvious building control infringement which could jeopardise the whole project............... Yup, that Justin Bieber poster . I'm trying to bring out new legislation banning such items. "Is it too late to say sorry?", yes Justin, it is

I wish the floor I was tiling today was as flat as that ! Looks very good considering they can't really see how level it is until it has a shine to it. Hows it feel underfoot?

That's 100% a common method of fixing down pans, yesteryear. I've seen hundreds like that. One of the main reasons was the porcelain / China was ever cast very well and changed shape a fair bit when fired. That meant that when you sat the pan on the floor it was either not level or rocked on the high points. The solution was to make a tower out of compo and twist the pan down into it before it actually made contact with the floor, and leave it to set. You can't argue that it worked a treat, and would have still been there in 20 years time. That colour may put you of mushy peas for life

Never use it where it's on show basically. It's a foundation, so you'll still need a coloured silicone / other to finish off. The good thing about that discipline is that the bead do silicone can easily be removed and redone when it gets tatty.

What peter said. Ok...... A TS is basically a huge round radiator, full of primary central heating water, and stores zero dhw. Dhw is produced instantaneously via a coil which sits at the top of the TS which is simply heated by the surrounding water. The heated primary water can be drawn off via dedicated tappings, the same way heated primary water enters the TS from the boiler, and your Ufh would simply be drawn from those points. There is no 'pressure' other than the static primary pressure which would show on the gauge of your system boiler, which is simply showing that the system is sealed and full of water, aka pressurised. There is no force available to 'push' water to the manifolds, that circulation would be provided solely by the manifold pumps. For eg, if you connected the manifold flow and return to the TS, then unless it was by convection, no water would flow through the pipes as the body of water would be unified and therefore be at the same potential. Even though the boiler pump is pushing water to the TS, it's also pulling back at almost the same potential so that creates a circuit of flow to and from the TS to the boiler, only. To create external ( beyond the TS ) circulation you need to fit a pump, hence the ones on the manifold. @Temp spoke in detail ( on EB ) about this need for a second pump still remaining with certain manifolds / manufacturers, but tbh I still am unsure as to why the manifold pump wouldn't draw through regardless. Maybe Temp can reiterate that so we can identify the type of manifold which may need the secondary circulation pump. An UVC is the opposite of a TS. It has a coil, fed by the heat source eg boiler, which heats the tank full of clean drinking quality 'potable' water, the water that actually comes out of the tap. UVC's don't have additional tappings for removing heat as the coil which heats it simply couldn't deal with the additional demand, eg a bath being drawn plus all the Ufh calling for hot water to heat the house from cold etc. The TS gets heated directly via the open body of water so is far far better at getting the heat from the boiler into the primary water, plus it circulates it too, spreading the heat out evenly. The flow from the boiler also hits the top of the TS, which is where the dhw coil sits, so in essence provides a kind of hot water priority. This is why your second plumber is one is not consider using. He should have clearly stated all this to you as a reason for his suggestion, but I doubt if he knows what a TS is, let alone how it should be utilised. My bottom dollar is on him failing to explain that he intended to run your Ufh directly from the boiler, using 2-port zone valves, and a third zone valve for the UVC, as opposed to leaving you think that the Ufh could be fed from the UVC. If you were having Pv I'd have probably said upsize to maybe 400ltrs, but if you feed the TS directly with that size boiler you'll get instant, constant ( as in 24/7 constant running dhw ) from the 300. As it'll never be used as a heat battery from a Pv POV, pointless in upsizing and increasing the losses, BUT, if you do upsize it, drumroll please, you'll be able to run at a lower target temp and reduce the losses a fair bit so if overheating would ever be a problem that's one way to mitigate it ( say upsizing to 500L and running at 55oC, or 65oC at 400L ), Setting up for a lower flow temperature can allow you to ensure you hit the best condensing flow return temps and maximise boiler efficiency too, so this is a multi-faceted question which needs a bit more thought / input . With a fully modulating boiler you could probably get away with running the Ufh directly from the boiler and fitting an UVC for dhw, as long as the minimum heat load for the house ( when the house is up to temperature and the boiler is only offsetting the heat losses from the house itself ) doesn't fall below the lowest modulating point. The only problem would be sizing the UVC exactly to your anticipated consumption. This situation would see the boiler running all sorts of different flow temps though, and would reduce it's efficiency quite a bit, so my recommendation would be.... 400L TS fed from a 32kw boiler. Ufh fed from the TS. Have the 2 circuits of Ufh flow and return pipework split immediately after the TS so the ground floor pipework can be isolated from the upstairs via dedicated two 2-port valves. These are required more to stave off convection circulation ( a killer with TS's ) than to offer control for the heating. You will also require an additional 2-port ZV between the boiler and the TS (i) to have control of the TS temp and (ii) to stop backflow of heat from the TS to the boiler. Set the cylinder stat to control that ZV and that ZV will then fire the boiler. That can be set to get the boiler to fire for bursts at a temp suited to get the best efficiency, rather than constantly idling to maintain temp. Written on the move so hopefully makes some sense.

Quick question, do you have a lip with those flush ones or is the tile cut edge on display with only the grouting / sealing for a finish?

I've not yet seen the flush ones tbh, and I like the look, a LOT. I'd say take the tiles off in a heartbeat, but the only problem will be if you've stuck them to plasterboard the tiles will take it with them and open a hell of a can of worms up. Whats the score with the tiles? PB / other? Type of adhesive ?

It doesn't look like you'll get much filler material into the crack tbh, so I'd say plate as well. Looks like a major stress point too.

Don't tell me you finished the Capri before the bathroom ?!?

Excellent news. Some of the bloggers had the links / mention of this place removed so glad a few got left behind. If your in contact with any ex members please spread the word.

Hello, again ! miss us ?

Welcome aboard

The comp ( his first year there ) are very slow responding to why he came home with bruises up his arm, but when his mobile phone was out in classroom time they were on it like a tramp on a kebab. Punished him, confiscated the phone, detention the full monty. Hes got ADHD and him having a phone at the end of each day is critical. They won't take it off him again after my 2 cents went in. Waiting on a phone call today from the head of year, but if I dont get it today I'm going up in the morning to kick some arses. That'll be the 5 time in a year where I've asked for a witnessed, minutes drawn meeting with the heads ( school and year ) for them to generate an official response. Give them enough rope etc.

I took apart the one in my boys primary school. As much use as a kickstart on a helicopter. Wait for ages for forms, then wonder why there is no response. Then find out she hasn't sent them.......again. Just given the head of the comp a deadline to respond to bullying. I knew they'd done nothing when he started stuttering. Ofsted next stop. ?

My makita collated driver is a great tool, but I've seen better ones, such as Hilti. Very little in the way of moving parts, so less to go wrong. If you ever want to get rid of the BC let me know. . I use the router at the mo, but it's a pita to set up, and it's a heavy bugger too.

Ah, maintenance. Im one of those stubborn ( or maybe just too busy ) people who drive the tool until it decides that's the end of the road. Most if my makita stuff isn't worth the effort or down time. Impact drivers can be bought new ( naked ) for change of £60, 2-speed drills for change of £40, and so on. The only place I draw the line is with things like my Dewalt DWS 780 XPS chopsaw. That's going in next week for tires, oil, filter, and an a full MOT. Nothing worse than wondering if that savage 12" blade is going to come loose and slice you clean in half.

Cheers for the thought, but just another thing to charge, have a lead for etc, when I already own a phone . Saw one on the bay for around £60, and another seller selling the same thing for £120. Gave up at that point and I'll just keep my eyes and ears open until a cheap 'I' flavoured one pops up until then I'll use my current inspection device.

Anyone know of a cheap one for Apple / iPhone / ipad?

Good result.

Ian. I just wrote something heart felt, then the auto save on this forum decided to erase it for me. Ill retype in the morning so please don't order any 'hits' until then, ok?

I'd have knocked his fackin teeth out. What a complete prick.

If it's an outside wall, definitely a good opportunity to add some insulated plasterboards, but you may have a new wall / old wall look then. If your not re-plastering the whole room then prob better to stick with the old school methods, ( for one wall ).

I think I'd be equally concerned about the condition of the battens and felt tbh. You may be better taking the lot off, buying some reclaimed to make up the quantity, and doing the felt and battens first as last. If your rendering to them then it will be almost impossible to do the roof later down the line. It will also be a near impossible task to carry out remedial work to the bottom courses of slates as they're nailed then overlaid 3-fold. Pointless looking at remedial work for the edges and bottom when the whole thing really needs assessing. Re-laying the roof will allow the battens to be set out accordingly for the overhangs, bottom and sides. You can use 'dry verge' and 'dry ridge' if you want, which alleviates cementing anywhere, but isn't as nice looking a job IMO unless you choose a nice colour for all the plastics. Im not sure you'll have many other options here tbh, and the roof is number one on the 'get right' list.