Nickfromwales

Ok. Separate the dhw and space heating, using a small buffer for the heating, with an immersion as a failsafe ( designed to run off grid electric ) and an UVC for dhw. Tell your missus that your going out for some milk, then go buy a cheap ashp off eBay and bring it home. Lie and say it cost a fortune. Plumb for the ashp accordingly and use excess Pv to heat the UVC to target temp, say 65-70o and use the ashp to boost ( via the dedicated controls eg 55o flow for "hot water demand" only during the colder seasons where you get little or no solar gain. Trying to run heating and hot water off electric via immersions is just not going to be a viable option IMHO, as dhw is the killer. Why run around putting inline heaters everywhere when a single solution for hot water is easily achievable, if sized and fed accordingly. At the very least I'd say you should go for an electric system boiler. Space heating should be negligible so the real problem here will always be dhw. Taking both out of a TS fed from electric though is, IMO, not going to end well.

Pop that in the mod section mate.

Top of the morning to you

How are you heating the Ufh? this is where we miss EB. No ability to review members' content.

Yup. Welcome aboard.

Best to determine your max flow velocity through the PHE before deciding if it's worth the upgrade on the shower tbh. Out of curiosity, how much more would it cost to go for the bigger unit?

Yup direct is a no no if that's the case. TS does require an EV just the same. If you're just needing dhw then an uvc will suffice. Do you have Ufh?

What the others said

Hi Colin. Glad you're back on board.

What's your means of providing DHW?

I'm not so sure that they're as flexible tbh. Maybe a buy it and see moment? The wound metal / chrome ones do take quite a beating so maybe you just had a duff / cheap-n-nasty one. Buy a branded one off eBay and give it a whirl, but needless to say watch for floods as the one you've got is clearly on borrowed time. Doubt if you have the nerves left for a flood at this stage.

Yup. Use 22mm x3/4" tap connectors rather than flexis and you'll get a fuller bore. Convert from 15 to 22mm at the end of the push fit pipes using push fit reducers onto 15mm copper. You'll probably have naff flow rates even then as iirc you've got gravity hot water at the mo, so you'll only see the benefits when you convert to an uvc later on.

I think you're seriously over thinking the plumbing, and there's no one who over engineers things more than me, which is why I'm not rich. You could very easily get away with 3/4 x 22mm push fit tap connectors, then straight ( but plenty flexible ) pieces of pushfit going to fixed plumbing in the footprint of the bath 'framework' and no isolations. The likelihood of having to isolate the bath is nigh on never, and I'd really not want to try and engineer a removable tiled panel tbh, nor would I like to look at a non grouted section. The plumbing for the basin can have isolations on the actual tap connectors ( known as service valves ) so again no need for any access or other for that either. Am I seeing right that you've bought a two tap hole basin? You'd be better off with a mixer with kids, or do as I did and fit a blending valve to cap the max temp at the basin hot tap. Otherwise you'll be getting full range hot out of the hot tap with no means of cooling it down. Just tried squinting at the pic again, is that a hole in the middle for a mono block? If so I'll shut me mouth.

Just in case http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ladies-Beverley-Hills-Polo-Club-Suitcases-3-Large-1-Small-Summer-Holiday-/141987254139?hash=item210f198f7b:g:3ioAAOSwPpFXMLS7

Splash zones are best managed by good tiling and grouting tbh. Pointless tanking behind there IMO. Only worth tanking when a drip of water can follow the tanking / water tight layer and eventually get to a waste / drain. Other than that it'll just sit there and pool. In a TF house the one point that will let you down there will be the junction between the wall tiles and the floor tiles. That'll develop a hairline crack, which will open very slightly when the bath is full and you get in it, so make sure your tiler runs a bead of CLEAR CT 1 along that line after it's been grouted. Sealing the grout in that area will probably be beneficial too.

If you're going electric only then it's likely you'll want to roof the storage target temp right up to get the most gain and subsequent sustain so I'd oversize the EV by at least 30%. The expansion vessel can go in the attic above with zero issues. Make sure it's accessible for service / maintenance / replacement. Ensure that the EV is teed off the cold inlet NOT the hot outlet. Also make an anti-gravity / convection 'trap' in the ascending pipework so as to keep the EV pipework and EV as cool as possible. Your G3 qualified installer ( need one if you want the lifetime warranty with the UVC or the 10 year warranty with the UVC ) should know all this, and don't forget to get the annual inspection done on time each year ( or bin your warranty card ). Bingo.

Iirc the 500 is the same width but taller. I've literally just put the phone down to Trevor and he's confirmed the following for UVCs. DIRECT ( electric only so no coil ) 300 £460 400 £793 500 £834 prob double immersion INDIRECT ( wet heating coil plus immersion ) 300 £516 400 £822 500 £895 all inclusive of vat and delivery. Add £50 for NI. Trevor said to go on the website cylinders2go and all the dimensions should be on there. Take 2.5% off the listed prices and you should be in the ball park.

Sorry just easier to take screenshots and upload them direct. That's for the 400ltr TS I'm fitting next week, which Trevor at Cylinders2go delivered for me last Tuesday. £1095.00 including vat and delivery. I think it's circa £50 additional to get it to the land of the hot press. Go for the metal jacketed version with the higher performing insulation. I've yet to update the info surrounding Shell's 'confusion' surrounding her TS which was going on on EB, re thicker sprayed on insulation vs thinner insulation (but higher performance) and the metal jacket. I had a very long and well informed chat with Roger the head guy at Telford about that misunderstanding and I am now fully conversant with the reasons for and against both types of insulation. DJF, trust me on this for the moment, you need to go for the thinner insulation and the metal jacket option NOT the spray on. I'll elaborate a little later (as it'll be a long post), which I will link to in this thread, but I'll give it a thread of its own so as not to derail this one. The information in that thread will be quite fundamental so I don't want it lost in another thread. If you're going immersion only I'd not go less than 500ltr. Cost difference between a 300ltr (TS) and a 400 ltr is ~£100 the last 500 ltr TS I had was ~ £1250 iirc. Trevor can confirm these upon making an enquiry. Please mention the old forum, the new forum and my user name and I've already pre-empted that we (you lot) get the best price he can do I've just left him a message to come back to me for prices for UVCs at 300 / 400 and 500 ltrs. At the larger size I'd recommend going for dual immersion so you can have one on Pv and another on manual / guest boost for high demand.

For those that don't know, when we conceived this forum I made some comments about summat and Ian replied "if I wanted to hear a sparrow fart", and then he hacked my profile and applied this 'artwork'. Git

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Smooth-1-5m-8mm-Shiny-PVC-Shower-Hose-Pipe-Long-Flexible-Brass-Connectors-/322042043197?nav=SEARCH these are quite good. No metal helicoil to split and untwist. give that a try.

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Challenge-Replacement-Hose-and-Lance-to-fit-for-Xtreme-Extreme-Pressure-washer-/301922809226?nav=SEARCH sorted. youll have the cleanest arse in all the land.

The tanking can stop pretty much after the defined wet area. If water's going to get that far then you have issues elsewhere. where is the uth going? Both rooms? Expensive ornament alert!

This is a former I'd just laid. The corners made up in sand and cement where an old pipe went through. The light grey stuff is the tanking primer which I cut in prior to fixing the tray into position. That just gave me a nice clean surface to bond the tray to. This shot shows the stud wall in place, blame the bathroom showroom for not having the tray the full width, and with the first coat of tanking applied. After the first coat was tacky, I then applied the 4" strip ( as seen with Roman written on it ) into a layer of wet tanking. That then gets brushed quite firmly to remove excess tanking from behind the strip to ensure it's as flush and flat as possible so as not to hinder tiling. The strips run between the former and the insulation backer boards on the floor ( insulation boards as this had undertile heating on a ground floor ( concrete )), in all the internal angles both horizontal and vertical, and around the turn of the boxing in eg the external also. Leftover strip used around the shower valve. Belt and braces, aka OCD. Finished article prior to grouting. Note the shower valve is dead centre of the border tile ribbon, and also there are two same size tiles either side equally intersecting the shower valve. That's gives the same size cut of tile around the entire valve plate. Aka OCD All of the above can also be observed when fitting a shower tray, just the only difference being that you can't use the strip between the shower tray and the wall. As the tile will only cover 12-14mm of the edge of the tray, you can't have the strip showing so another change of discipline is needed. The next one is a one piece shower tray, so basically you just tank the walls prior to the tray being fitted, which gives an excellent surface for the adhesive ( mastic type ) to adhere to when bonding the tray into its final position. What the picture doesn't show is the masking tape that I put onto the tray to allow me to get a neat edge to the sealant where it sits on the tray edge. That junction is quite important as it's the last line of defence against any water getting behind the tiles. What I do I these circumstances is to pump a load of mastic ( sikaflex for these is best as it's non silicone based and also doubles up as a sealant as well as an adhesive ) between the tray and the wall and then push the tray against the walls thus displacing any excess above the tray edge. This is when you'll be glad you masked it up first . Get a plastic spatula and then spread the excess sealant, whilst still wet, against the vertical wall face. Do this so you get an up-stand of sealant forming a 'skirting board' which is continuous between the tray, the wall, and vertical face of the wall, preferably all in one application. I set the masking tape around 5-6mm in from the edge of the tray so I know I'll get a straight line, and also a bead of sealant that's has a decent purchase on the tray, which then transfers to the wall. The action of tooling the sealant with the spatula pushes it against the tray itself thus forming a good / strong bond to both. After the horizontal sealant has cured, next run a bead up the internal angle for at least 600-900mm up the corner. With the fundamental sealing done, in goes the 45'd shower valve & pipework frame sections which them get plasterboarded and sealed, plus tanked prior to tiling. Roberts your mothers brother The end.