Nickfromwales

Sounds better. It adds a lot. More plumbing, more components, you'd still need a generic rad in the top room as well as the dump rad as it'll only dump when the system overheats so you can't use it to heat 'when you like' . Open pipe needs F&E, without it you'd be all sealed so a much less complex setup and much easier to integrate things with / to. I'd go for a TS not a buffer ( whilst an uvc is dedicated to dhw ) so you can get cold water uplift and pre heat the water going into the uvc. That'll aid downsizing, and help out massively when Pv isn't generating.

I didn't want to say it, but I'll certainly second that tbh. . Hes going to the merchant for advice, which is bad on a good day.

You'll find they'll be well seasoned by now and take a lot of 'abuse' eg having Ufh. I'd favour that existing timber over new stuff all day long. .

Ok Having the TS in the attic could be a problem. With a solid fuel heat source you'll need an open pipe 'vented' primary heating circuit servicing that arrangement. That means you'll need a large galvanised steel feed and expansion ( F&E ) tank at a minimum of 1m above the top of the TS. Next problem I see is running heating and hot water via the TS for when the ashp is being used. The space heating should ideally be able to run direct ( via a small buffer ) from the ashp to the Ufh. Otherwise the ashp will need to constantly run at high temp so as not to cool the TS and render it useless for dhw. Lets go bite size on this . Thoughts so far?

You won't be using those boards Experpt..... " ProWarm™ BACKER-PRO insulation Boards are ideal for two primary purposes; as a superior waterproof surface to fix wall or floor tiles and as a first class heat insulation for underfloor heating systems. ProWarm™ BACKER-PRO insulation boards are particularly suited to underfloor and under tile heating applications. Installation below underfloor heating systems on an existing un-insulated concrete or timber sub-floor will greatly reduce heat up time and running costs." Youd be better off with a quality plywood, but I'd probably recommend that you fix engineered flooring directly over the plates. I'd bond them down rather than mechanical fix or floating, so they have a good contact for heat transfer but still some movement.

Looking good. Hoping to start my manshed soon, getting quite jealous of your bats new house .

Will that be wise if it's a ventilated void?

Ventilation heat loss from below the floor will be a big factor. How much space is there between the underside of the joists to the ground? 50mm of cellotex / similar will be quite inadequate imho. Draughtproofing the insulated envelope ( NOT the ventilated void underneath ) will be of paramount importance. Can you not remove and backfill with insulation and concrete / screed?

http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/12249-deadly-summer-overheating/page__fromsearch__1

Heat store 938 and a small buffer for Ufh would do you proud . Fill yer boots

With no Pv, I'd try and get away with a Combi. If you deffo go LPG, id recommend a heat store Combi like the Vaillant 938 which is as close to an UVC as you can get without having a cylinder. Heating can be via a buffer in the airing cupboard, and that'll allow your low grade heat to feed off the boiler with ease. How many bathrooms, and what's your DHW requirement? Couple on your own or 3 teenagers?

Reminds you of the last time you came home pissed

Anyone got Andrews email? He's not showing as registered here yet.

Still not a bad height .

I knew we should have patented that concept "This time next year, Rodney, we'll be millionaires".......??????

Tres bien .

Time to put the sheriff badge on me thinks. Say nite nite .

Ok chaps Boots suitably filled, back to business please .

Yup welcome aboard ? Can we politely remind you that this is an open minded forum, so @ProDave is free to do whatever he likes in his spare time.

I'm not familiar with any trend towards radial tbh, other than dedicated circuits like heating control, smokes, alarm etc. Ring main is always our preferred method, but at least 3 rings ( down / up / kitchen ) so not sure about that afaik. Regarding double pole isolation, there is only really a requirement ( or need maybe I should say ) for DP when the appliance is hard wired. If there is a plug and you need to service / replace then you just pull the plug out . Unless you intend to work on something whilst it is connected to the mains then I really can't see the need for DP.

Do the inverters 'lift' in the event of grid electric failure ( aka a power cut ) ?

If that's plasterboard, then it'll be the whole wall if they don't want to come off. Very often, the two won't separate without the surface paper of the PB being damaged / tearing away completely, which will render the board useless. If only minimal break out you'll need to PVA, let it dry, then use a cenentitous ( powder adhesive ) accordingly.

Do you actually need to inform them? Is that done to get a '2-way' meter installed and an agreement for the provider to buy off you and at what rate? Was considering a small array to offset my vampire / parasitic loads throughout the day, fitted flat on my new shed roof, when it gets done . Idea was to add to it over time to increase revenue / run other appliances accordingly.

The one I bought. I found mine ( elsewhere ) on eBay, and contacted the company directly. Saved the eBay fees so it was a bit cheaper and still free delivery. 4 beers is 4 beers whichever way you cut it

No. It will be quite obvious when grouted tbh.