Nickfromwales

Oh, and for the record......why wasn't this plastered all in one go? Why the damn crack?

Hi 8 First job is to assess the repair. Don't just go whacking filler in straight away as you don't want to make any high points any higher. Get a good straight edge, a 600mm spirit level / similar, and put it centrally across the crack. One end on one ceiling and t'other on........t'other. Drag the level from one end of the crack to the other and see what the height differences are, where they're worst and identify any plaster that is creating high points. Mark them with pencil as you go along. Remove any high points by scraping or sanding with 40 grit paper until you get to a point where the level shows you a reasonably even transition from left to right. Get a brush and some PVA ( 50% PVA - 50 % water ) and thoroughly coat the crack and about an inch of the plaster each side. Wait until that dries almost completely and then coat just the crack with neat PVA. Allow to go tacky and then load up with filler. I'd use Gyproc Easyfill tbh as it doesn't shrink or crack as it dries, and is really easy to sand back. It's my preferred bulk filler, with Toupret as the smaller application / finisher filler. Use one of these filler applicator 'knifes' and it'll be easier to get a smooth coat in one go. Get a decent quality sanding paddle like this and go against the crack, not in line with it. Don't try to get this right first coat, but build in layers. Make the first just shy of the plastered surface and leave to dry. Give a quick rough sand to get rid of trowel /knife marks and then prime with the diluted PVA mix and load up with filler again, this time slightly proud. Leave to dry fully and then sand as stated above. Be gentle as this stuff sands back quickly. If your arms start to hurt a little from all these processes then your doing it right

The council BCO's here are great. Very helpful and happy to get an emailed pic enquiry rather than drag their arses to site for something simple ( wasteful ) so I'd use them again. That's after spending the £300 odd quid for the sub £5k 'package', but you get your pound of flesh if you ask for it. They'd rather be involved early and IMHO that's better as the sooner you identify what's needed, and get the correct method to do so, the better it is all round.

Apparently your not supposed to do that ( radial ) method. Afaik your supposed to daisy chain from the first to the last and not T / branch off to do any on the way. @ProDave. Makes perfect sense re the 9V trigger now you mention it. Power cuts being accounted for etc. Cheers.

Plasterboard one side of the studs and then just stuff it in there. Cut it into smaller sections and lay it widthways and it'll stay in place without help. Or, do half length drops and glue the tops with aerosol spray glue ( like carpet glue ) and it'll stay put. Fine fishing line is a method I use for overhead work, in conjunction with a staple gun, zig-zagging at ~600mm intervals. Staple on the sides of the joists, not the face, to keep the joist faces clear.

I'm sure it's 230v as you'd not be able to run differing voltages in the same ( 3 core + E ) cable

Electric for me too. Just to have less noise is a major plus tbh.

Thats why your bathrooms not finished yet

Bond them to longer lengths of plywood Straight, and even depth.

A lucky, and priceless insight then

Can you take a load to a local woodworking shop and ask them to run them through a table saw ? Perfect mitres and should only charge a few quid for beers.

I'm a big fan of tile skirting. No paint, no maintenance and look great. What do you need a mitre saw for?

The Hepworth stuff is much better than the JG, for both flexibility and for the range of fittings. The stainless inserts are also much less obtrusive than the JG SuperSeal inserts. Hep all the way.

6th? I have to ask, what was the first one like ?

You'd have all the slack you want as it would be having a new strapper ( piece of new cable ) between two boxes

Knock the mains off, and give it a light sand with some sandpaper and see if the inner cores are either exposed or damaged. Post a pic back with the blackened stuff removed

Better explanation here

No probs re the wiring diagram Basically a TS is usually heated or hot 24/7. Pipe runs from the TS normally go from the upper 'flow' tappings and return again via the lower 'return' tappings. Any run of pipework from those points will inevitably rise or fall along the way, and that makes convectioncirculation possible eg there will be a 'draw' of heated water from the TS and it'll circulate through the pipework completely naturally. Same way that old heat only back boilers would heat a copper tank, eg via two large bore ( 28mm ) circs which required no pump to get the heated water up and back. Quite often these systems had basic central heating systems connected via 22mm pipework and that had a pump to get a higher velocity flow. Quite often there would be a customer complaining that radiators were heating up ( upstairs only ) when only hot water was selected ( eg summertime ) and that was caused by this convection crawling through the pump. An anti-gravity ( single check non return ) valve would stop this with ease. The additional ZV's I mention for each Ufh circuit you have provides the same anti-gravity mitigation, but selectively, ( as in you can run upstairs whilst downstairs is off and vice versa / all off / all on ) via electronic control. Clear as mud?

If the outer pvc is only scorched then I'd leave it tbh and just 'whip' it with white electrical tape. You could do more harm that good cutting and linking it through so if it's not burned to the actual coloured cores then don't go any further. If you want to protect it, just buy a choc box and use that as the mechanical protection. The first pvc layer over the copper is electrical protection, and the outer layer is for mechanical protection only. . Hence the phrase PVC/PVC when ordering cable types.

Most things do .

TLC sell them in smaller quantities

Just put the boards back down . If there's no leaks and the water is getting where it's supposed to then it's ok to leave it imo. .

The foot soldiers are usually just drones tbh, and dependant on which one you get you can just direct them accordingly. Usually tea and biscuits to start can help.