Nickfromwales

Don't tell him until he gets there

+2 Dont waste any time looking for the leak, whilst turning your house inside out, just reroute now. If you cant get your mate to dig yet, buy some 25mm alk and just dig where the main stop tap is and make a temp run, surface mounted. Leave a load of slack in the pipe so you can bury it and then get the WB to connect it accordingly. Make the temp connection to the steel pipe just after the stop tap ( so you don't need the WB right away ) and back feed the house through the outside tap. That will allow you to just shut off the stopcock and isolate the leak. Spend the time and effort on new, the old is not worth even thinking about chasing .

I guess my point would be that if I go into my merchants and ask for a potable device and it failed in the stated capacity, I'd have recourse against the supplier. This made quite interesting reading. http://www.bssa.org.uk/faq.php?id=9

My only fear is that the pipe you expose isn't good enough to repair. Where does the cold mains come into the house at the moment? Did the water guy give you any indication of where the pipe runs, eg how does it get from street to house?

Blunt as this may sound, it's down to each individual to make sure what they're buying is fit for purpose. I can't shout at the greengrocer for giving me apples when I should have asked for oranges .

"Adapt and overcome"

If there's enough metal left to detect

Using two guys to pull 10mm copper is essential. If I'm on my own I'll do long runs with pulled bends on the end and use straight sockets to join onto the next straight run. Based on your comment J, a valid additional point can be raised. That's that the posi joist metal webs will slice through push fit / plastic if left against them. Pipes move a little with water hammer / movement so be aware of this risk and take measures to prevent such occurrences.

Eg, maybe a good time / opportunity to redirect the mains if necessary?

Age of pipe mate. Bags of shat wouldn't have even worried it. . What about the section of pipe that goes into where your stopcock currently is?

And the benefit is that the fittings go around a copper pipe with no strangulation of the internal bore, whatsoever

Don't beat yourself up. This is VERY robust pipe and is imo belt n braces. The connectors that affix to the pipe are also extremely good in comparison to a regular compression or push fit coupler, so you'll have a very good install at the end. . I would use it again in a heartbeat, and would favour it over regular push fit.

Oh, and just remember that if you over solder an elbow, the solder will flow inside the pipe and can partially fill it if there's a sump ( eg the elbow is at the bottom of a vertical drop and the weight of the pipe is pushing down on the elbow ) if you get what I mean.

That's good news. I'd second going for copper.

Connect some to your outside tap dave and give it a test drive .

If you have good cold mains pressure ( or have installed measures to provide it ) then you'll be surprised at how good the flow is through 10mm pipe. If your using JG Speedfit then the likelihood is you'll add more restriction as their Superseal inserts are ridiculously bulky compared to the Hepworth stainless insert which is exremely thin / low profile, plus it's nigh on full internal bore ( the size of the original pipe prior to inserting it ). Hepworth all the way for me.

I did one job in 16mm and I used it for all the hot, hot return, and cold runs. I used this as I had a lot of off cuts plus a couple of coils over and wanted to use them up. I doubt if I'd use this by design tbh but any push fit pipe will need converting to copper where it terminates, but I wouldn't want to have to source 16mm manifolds for hot and cold tbh. 15mn is the standardised size so I'd try and stick to it where possible ( so you don't have to keep converting sizes where required ). Much easier to stick to one discipline imho.

In this instance it's not being used primarily as an insulator . This is just to keep the spreader plates proud to ensure the floor is in good contact with them when it gets fixed down. Having the spreader plates sagging under the floor would be catastrophic in terms of transferring heat to the deck, and therefore the room. Not so much of an issue when you can get underneath to staple the plates up from underneath, but essential if you can't.

Pert 15mm pipe is available.

The max lengths at 5m don't change from the weak output to the monster output ones so the laws of physics kick in here. High wattage and low voltage = big current. Divide the wattage by the voltage and you get your current.

You risk the voltage drop tbh. If you put one before the other then you'll most likely see the difference in the first and last led.

Yup. Digging first got mine out. Root system was unbelievable, and that was in made up ground with topsoil.

This one couldn't pull my hedgerow roots out. Wrapped a chain around the root balls and just watched it pull the digger over until the PTO alarm started wailing. If ithe stumps are 6" to 10" then you'll need a beast, I kid you not.

Nothing worse than the Indians running around without a chief.

I personally don't fit them. I don't like anything that spaces the pan any further off the wall than necessary. As far as actoustic isolation I'm not exactly sold on them as the noise of the flushing water in the pan is the only real noise / sound, and the fill valves are almost silent ( fit a flow restrictor where pressure is particularly high ) so I'd not bother with them. From my experience with them, they tend to stop the pan going back at a perfect 90o to the wall and the silicone line is then also much thicker than it needs be.