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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. You could always duct to the boiler position internally and have the meter inside .
  2. "All hail the ale".
  3. Yup. Operation can-o-worms can be set aside. good call. FYI, messing with those can start them clacking or chattering under part flow ( when not fully open or closed ) so best left alone IMO.
  4. I've not seen an all plastic one with water controls / attenuation built in, just the plastic spurs. I used the hep ones so I could bring services into play as and when they were second fixed, and to make the concealed ( semi pedestal basins ) remotely isolatable so you never need to get 'to' the connections underneath. Made the terminations so much easier, 10mm hep into a 10x15mm spigot reducer and then the flexi fixed directly to that. Without the individual isolations you can't make the manifold live until every pipe is connected, tested, purged clear and cap-ended. A right pita when second fixing 4 bathrooms, a kitchen, utility, etc as you'd be continually draining down the lot, connecting and testing the next added circuit and repeating. There was another 2-port manifold fitted there afterwards for the non softned water which fed the chilled drinking tap at the kitchen sink, ( which also had the outside tap teed off it ), and the central heating filling loop. I'm not familiar with Tiemme and couldn't see anything similar from a quick search of their website. I used Hepworth ( and a couple of JG fittings on that job Hepworth weren't available same day from the local supplier so needs must ) as exclusively as I could on that job as they're very well made bits of kit and the Hepworth fittings are bullet and bomb proof. I also like the slimline stainless steel inserts which don't impact on the internal bore diameter as much as the likes of JG do.
  5. Text excerpt. See 4th from bottom for confirmation Application purpose For installation of a wall-hung WC with bolt fixings set at 180 or 230 mm centres For installation in a room-height Duofix system wall in front of a solid or drywall construction For mounting in front of a solid or drywall construction For a screed of 0 - 200 mm (not in room height applications) For connecting Geberit AquaClean Any boarding must be fixed tight up against the face of the Duofix frame and screwed directly to the frame. Characteristics Self-supporting Frame with C profile 40/40 mm Powder-coated frame, ultramarine blue Galvanised leg supports, steplessly adjustable 0 - 200 mm Feet can be retracted 5 cm Rotating foot plate, for installation in UW50 and UW75 profiles Frame with holes ø 9 mm for fastening in wood frame construction Sound-absorbing actuator rods, tool-free, fast adjustment Easy to clean coating on glass and metal Concealed cistern fully insulated against condensation Concealed cistern for tool-free mounting and maintenance Frame height 1120 mm With wall brackets to allow up to a 200 mm duct. For larger ducts up to 400 mm use extension bolts 111.887.00.1 Tool-free fastening for outlet bend, sound-absorbing, adjustable in depth with 8 positions, adjustable range 45 mm Connection hose to angle stop valve can be screwed without tools Water supply connection at centre back or at the top Geberit Sigma concealed cistern 12 cm (UP320) with front actuation Dual flush with Sigma80 touchless, Sigma60, Sigma50, Sigma20, Sigma10 touchless, Sigma01 or Bolero flush plates Single flush with Sigma10 or Tango flush plates Dual flush with pneumatic and mechanical buttons Single flush with touchless flush or pneumatic buttons The protection cover protects the service opening against moisture and dirt and can be mounted without tools and cut to length Universal water supply connection compatible with MeplaFix, can be mounted and operated without tools Self-locking feet for tool-free alignment of the frame, (friction feet have to be locked with spanner) For pans with contact surfaces smaller than 170 mm (see accessory 111.847.00.1) Flush valve features settings to enable either a 6l and 3l flush or a 4.5l and 3l flush. For flush volumes of 4l and 2l a low flush beaker is required (241.894.00.1) Note: must be used with pans designed for low volume flush. The cistern can be operated with used water (rainwater) provided it is passed through a filter system first. Technical data Flow pressure range 0.1-10 bar Operating temperature water max. 25 °C Flush volume small range 3-4 l Flush volume factory setting 5.8 and 3 l Scope of delivery 2 Duofix PreWall brackets for system Water supply connection R 1/2" male BSP parallel thread with integrated angle stop valve and hand wheel Conduit pipe for the water supply connection of Geberit AquaClean Flush bend Protection plug Protection housing for service opening 2 threaded rods M12 for ceramics fastening WC connection set, ø 90 mm WC outlet bend, HDPE, ø 90 mm Adaptor sleeve, HDPE, ø 90/110 mm Fastening material Excluded: Flush plate
  6. ok. I'll sleep on it. New plan to follow.....
  7. Yup. Lazy way of piping imho. Typical of new mass produced builds......quick and easy, and as long as it works until the cheques cleared. I'll stick to my method. OZ, the writings on the wall..,,,,.plate
  8. I doubt it'll go anywhere as the ply shoe you've made will spread the weight proportionally across the insulation. I'd set the bath so it's just touching the tiles, literally a fag paper off and then mask around it. Lift it and apply a sealant and lower it down again. It'll be easy enough to separate that later should the need ever arise, and then a silicone overcoat for colour match / final sealing. No need for stainless imo but I do seal the ply first with a very pissy mix of water / pva. Forgot to mention earlier, don't use tile adhesive to fix the tiles to the ply, they'll come away as good as look at them . I use cheap n cheerful silicone to stick the tiles on, with 50p sized blobs every 100mm centred. Bombproof.
  9. The wet dab rots the box for one .
  10. I believe they come with a 110mm outlet that you can reduce back to the 90mm diameter if so required. I think they cater for the wider audience as standard have a look here and you can see removable the tail piece on the soil outlet
  11. I doth my cap sir. Your doing a 100% 'nick quality' bathroom there mate. Word of advice, when you come to final fix all the plywood, you'll need to glue fack out of it to keep it from parting company from the framework. If you don't heed the words of the tile master ( my unofficial title, but apparently the queen saw my last job and is considering the title of Sir Tilealot ) then you'll have all the tile cuts opening up from the trims and it'll look like the San Andreas fault runs around the bath edges. Glue and screw the living day lights out of it, like a screw every 50-60mm. Sounds bonkers, but you won't say that if you don't do it and have to grout it every other month.
  12. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-3-4-Port-Sections-1-Manifold-Water-Distributor-with-Hep2O-Connectors-Italy-/262272736063?var=&hash=item3d10ac5b3f:m:mILFCEnOg-uC8A79FwG_atw
  13. They're all Hepworth. I supplied the materials with the customer paying direct in their own name ( so they could claim the vat ). I used my local supplier and he delivered to site for £100 ( fuel cost ) plus £100 cash bribe for the van driver which I paid as we needed them before the due date ( as no SE could be found to give me a sign off for my proposal to put that lot in the generous ( wasted ) attic space ( as per my original quote ) where the MVHR also resided. Behind that lot was the utility with a Vaillant gas boiler serving that TS. PV was mentioned but not there at the time so I recommended gas due to the remit being 3 showers run in unison, without compromise, hence the accumulator.
  14. Hi and welcome. Is the extension going to make the room open plan?
  15. One tmv on the hot outlet of the uvc set to 50oC to allow for any loss between cylinder and kitchen / utility, and then I'd feed a basin-only manifold with a secondary tmv set to 46oc ( "unassisted" doc M recommendation ). If you zoom in you'll see cold manifold on the left, a primary tmv ( grey cap ) set to 50/51o C ) feeding a 6 way 'full range hot' manifold, and then a secondary tmv ( blue cap ) set to the lower ( user definable ) temp for the wash hand basins only ( in this case 4 in No; and fed with 10mm pipe to reduce wait time for premium temp water to reach the tap. Given hindsight I'd have fed the secondary tmv directly off the hot outlet to reduce the dead leg before it ( 28mm to the primary tmv ) but was against the clock there ( as I had to make that airing cupboard before I could fit the tanks! )
  16. http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/pegler-yorkshire-belmont-iii-vb1290-3-trv-body-686033?gclid=CNKDwIPrhM0CFRG3GwodTW8Lpg That's one. Danfoss do some too, I'll have a dig later. Be aware that the ones you have are directional. Do you have a Combi or the original boiler ( that would match the age of the valves ) and yup, they're the captive olive type so are a bit of a pita to replace directly.
  17. Apparently not the best for stratification. Iirc it was posted about on EB briefly.
  18. No wonder you extended ......I mean
  19. Sorry I can't recall, but have you lost all,of the roof space to the flying mice?
  20. From what my small brain can ascertain, those plates are as strong, if not stronger, than the actual points elsewhere in timber. I consider those to be continuous uninterrupted members. If they weren't then the joints would have to be manufactured to land on pad stones or steels / supporting walls wouldn't they ?
  21. I use Harris stuff where it matters. For obliteration with the Leyland stuff it really doesn't matter as that paint shouldn't be your final finish e.g. you should be sanding that back prior to applying 2 coats of a quality durable paint. The Leyland is most definitely NOT a durable paint btw, it's just a high opacity filler for obliterating new plaster to white / mag. It's on the final coats that you want to spend out on a decent roller unless it's just the size you're worried about for speedier coverage? In which case stick with a cheaper roller and just move your arms faster
  22. Either by looping the pipe up behind or by fitting a bend and a male to female ( M&F ) bend back to back. This is mostly done on site to speed up a build, and is very typical of mass produced or commercial builds. Then the pipe goes behind the rad and into one of these angled rad unions.
  23. The trusses won't need replacing IMO. If they do, I'll be beyond shocked. At the worst they'll need an in-situ repair as suggested above. They'll be over engineered already, so will have a good bit of headroom in them. Please keep this updated though, as it's a good reference for anyone about to get trades in. Oh, and tell your sister not to start removing the sharp objects from the house quite yet
  24. Thanks Dave. that wasn't meant the wrong way and I know what you're saying. Off the record, about the truss thread, I would bet my left nad that there would never be any issue, ever, with those trusses. They're going to have been over engineered anyway and even though the manufacturers will want to cover their arses, I'd be beyond shocked if there was even a hint of a failure tbh. I've seen joists like that with 2"x4" cut outs and worse, yet they've been there for years without issue, and are still there as I type this. This is based on me seeing literally hundreds of these scenarios, not just from me making an assumption. Rules are there to be followed, of course, and any trade will be ( or should be ) aware of joist rules in their most basic form, so these guys should have checked first and drilled after. They've gone in the wrong way, and may have to face the consequences. The difference between them and me is I stop, assess, and engineer a solution rather than just crack on. If I think it needs the Feds involving, then in they come. What does shock me is the number of customers who will stop going ahead with a knock through etc when I say an SE will cost around £350 and the BCO sign off will be around the same ( when my price for a wall-down steel-in is around £1500 before professional fees ), and then when they find out they have to pay half that again for the sign off they say no thanks. I know then they'll go to someone who will just do the job regardless and they'll smile just the same for the job with no recourse. As with everything, there is wheat and there is chaff.
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