Nickfromwales

Do you mind me asking how much the 16m 2 cost ?

I still struggle to see why anyone ( in this country ) would choose ST. RHI is one thing of course, but it performs best in summer when you need very little heat and then you have to dump the excess. Maybe I'm missing something

Cheers dave

Start a new thread you lot Not quite LED lighting now

+1, bit increase the TS to 400 ltrs. Lower temp so better off with more volume. It's about £100 more to go from 300 to 400 .

Sounds pretty much spot on to me. As opposed to a seasonal control, maybe a relay to hold the boiler off if the immersion is energised? That coupled with the time clock would be a good solution.

Flexi for the local connection, and then convert to rigid at the next convenient point. There would be nothing wrong with making the first fitting off these a bend, if you needed an immediate turn due to height constraints, and then a section of flexi immediately off that, but it would imho be a right pita to try and couple these to rigid with no 'break'

These require a delicate touch to fit properly. A VERY snug fit in the plasterboard and then 4 x small screws trough the ring into the plasterboard, plus the two 'wing' clips that are supplied need an equally fussy eye. They're standard size for ducting and I have no doubt they'll accept some rigid pipe or other. I would say that you'll struggle not to hit these out of the ceiling whilst fitting rigid though. I can't really see any reason to try and connect rigid directly to them tbh, and it would make life 100 times easier if you just used a short piece of flexi to make this connection. You won't have issues with vacuum collapse as the flow rates are just too low with MVHR. Is that your concern. ?

Cheaper than shoplifting. http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/281298929759

These combined extractor / lights are what I use in every job. Maybe you could connect the mvhr to them and have one less item in the ceiling ? They come with an led lamp and driver for change of £25 each. Chrome or white bezel ( comes with both ).

Re the pump just make sure it's an A band. Re the sets, I've never had issues with either, but a few on here rave about the thermo type as they appear to give better performance at lower temp.

That's the one in my link no side caps there spongebob. Or or that one

Haven't been ignoring this btw, just having a very busy week and thinking it over when I get 5 mins here and there.

Thanks. I do a lot of showroom bathrooms so they've been my main bread and butter. I do like fitting kitchens more tbh, and am trying to steer things that way. Just my luck that Ive just taken deposits on 2 bathrooms and a Wetroom . Bugger.

There used to be a compression type nut and cone washer for the flush pipe, where it met the underside of the cistern. Temp posted re his grief with them, but the type you have is the superseded version and is one piece push on with a chunky o-ring and is bombproof. That one you liked is about 4 years ago, and I've consumed a bit of ale since. Iirc it's a Duravit pan. Thought it may have been a Starck pan but in my pic it appears to have a rim to it. Maybe discontinued? The Stark 3 looks similar. Theyre expensive, but the bolt system on the underside is second to none. I don't like the side fix ones and I get the most amount of grief from the latter, during fitting. Plus, I don't like to see the caps on the side that go in the fixing holes after fitting as they never fit snugly IMO.

15mm to everything else, basin hots and colds and colds to WC's in 10mm. If a tap is used / opened for a reasonable duration then it's not so problematic tbh. It's things like quickly washing your hands after visiting the loo that qualifies for scrutiny and as little dead volume as possible. Kitchen sinks / baths / showers etc tend to be run and left on, and at much higher L/p/min so the dead leg of cold is drawn out much faster. Basin taps tend to be very low flow rate so need consideration the most.

Sounds more like an affair If you've got the money I've got the time

You can massively shorten the distance by wrapping a soaking wet cloth around the pipe immediately before the fitting. It varies too much to give a one shot answer, tbh, as if you solder a pipe before it goes vertical it's going to heat upwards very quickly and much further along the copper, but if it goes downwards then it's reduced by quite a lot. Try and solder up the copper work after mocking it up, as I do, and solder it away from the job. When cool, offer it up and push it into the pushfit pipe.

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There are more I can keep posting them until you get the trap doors out of your head not one of these has any other access than through the flush plate. Bingo.

You're sure total waste of time and effort. There is nothing serviceable OUTSIDE of the cistern. Anything INSIDE the cistern gets taken apart / serviced / replaced as per the demo vid. Bob's your uncle.

Iirc, @DamonHD is now registered here so maybe he'll offer his opinion when he gets 5 mins

Fwiw, I've NEVER had one of these units give me a moments grief ( when fitted correctly ) and I've done a good few. They used to have a crap connector at the bottom do the cistern but now it's a much better solution which is idiot proof ( just ask me ! ).

Your fitter needs to get into 2016 No need whatsoever for access. That's only if his plumbing to the unit fails.

I got 96 but thought I'd left it too long to get any credibility. Ed, step away from the calculator.