Nickfromwales

Hi and welcome.

Use a 40mm tee to connect the two basin 32mm pipes together, and run a single 40mm back to the elephant foot.

I'd be happy ( confident ) enough with these for a 'fit and forget' install, so this could go in the joist space therefore not increasing your boxing in size one jot.

I wouldn't go less than 70-80mm, but as you've prob got off cuts of soil, use that with a long radius bend.

Boiler in bedroom is fine. They're classed as 'room sealed' . Get it up the attic out of the way, or in an utility etc. . Boiler in bedroom = a no no for me.

It's pretty much bombproof tbh, but it's the criteria set out by the water authority that dictates the way it's pulled in in most circumstances. 700-750mm below ground, 4" duct / sleeve of non aggressive material, then the stopcock, then a non-return ( double check ) valve and a drain off cock. Anything less and they refuse to connect you down here. Always remember that the WB will want YOU to excavate the foundation of the boundary wall, and will ONLY dig OUTSIDE the boundary. Your pipe needs to have a good bit of slack and be free to pull under the boundary wall at said depth.

Yup, bugger all gets through once it's squashed into place.

He was old gold. Pissed me off tbh as he said about stuffing it full of mineral wool / rock wool etc so I had to go buy a full roll for two poxy handfuls. Live and learn. Cheers J. ( I'll quote you next time ).

I doubt if you've got more than minutes to live................. The issue is created when the 'goop' that the tape is saturated in enters the water, thus contaminating it. Ultimately this can only really happen when the pressure around the pipe exceeds the pressure inside the pipe, or where the tape was applied to a hole and could then directly 'wash' into the water. If your confident that those couldn't occur then relax for he moment, bit can I assume that you'll be changing the entire cold mains now anyway? Fwiw, I'm a fan of denso ( just checked the spelling ) and use it to cover any copper gas runs etc where applicable. Only problem is you have to buy a chuck-away craft knife and loads of disposable gloves as it's the anti-Christ of tapes when it comes out of the wrapper.

Afaik, denzo has been banned for use on potable water supplies. Why fit it over a pipe when you can just change the pipe

That's why I asked . It was a Welsh Water "Johnny Jobsworth" that came out and he ran me through the grinder at every stage. Thanks for the comprehensive reply, another reason why I'm on here. . Peter, stand down foam alert

Are you aware of these fittings ? The pipe terminates vertically so I'm a fan.

Welsh water guy told me it would fail if I used it . They came out to check a new mains I had installed on an insurance job, and said a few had done it and had to remove it. @JSHarris. any truth in it?

Waxoil or chain lube. The latter goes on like liquid, but solidifies after a short period leaving a waxy layer where it needs to be ( and stay ). WD40 doesn't stay on long at all. What do you know.....WD40 are one step ahead of us

For the issue of airtightness, just picture the pipe going down through the duct to the ground, and then as it exits the duct the pipe is surrounded with compacted fines ( dust ) which will be wet. That'll stop just about any movement of air between the house and the atmosphere Do NOT squirt expanding foam down the soil pipe to 'plug' the hole as it reacts with alkathene / mdpe and is a big no no.

Both, of course. . You've never tried chewing denzo tape before then ? PS, Dave, you cannot use denzo on a leaking cold mains pipe . It'll contaminate the drinking water. Apart from that, top idea

3 x 4.0's for change of £90 is a good deal imo. I'll get some when my next couple die. At the mo I've got 2 x 5's, 6 x 4's ( nearly new ) and one 3ah that is 2012 stamped and just refuses to die. Was running 3 single chargers but on the last kitchen job one decided to start showing red / green flash on every battery ( so buggered charger ) and another was very noisy ( fan ) so I decided to give it an 'encouragement' slap, where a flash and a bang quickly followed. Two chargers dead in the space of 5 mins . Bought one of these dual chargers last week and it has a handy USB socket to charge the phone too. . Id recommend these in a heartbeat, for the money, and haven't used my 3rd ( now spare ) single charger since tbh. I wanted to buy the new radio, Bluetooth and USB, but the loons at makita REMOVED the DAB receiver and sent it back to 1980 with AM/FM . Ass Hoooooooooooooooles.

Go get a beer.

Legend

Good spec for the money. I think I'd be inclined to go for the Bosch 3 line as it's got good accuracy over 50+ M's and its just so bloody handy for so many other jobs on the rest of the build. Do the 'dumpy' sets give distance or just level? I've never used one tbh.

This is the stuff.

Ok thanks. I've just noticed that with some oft the the copies the battery is significantly ( physically ) bigger. I'll get the bbq emptied into the kids and have a look when I get a chance later.

Do you have the link / seller name please? I'll have a look. My 36v ( 2x18v ) sds drill sucks the batteries dry in no time at all when chiselling / drilling large holes, so may choose a couple of knock offs to dedicated to that perhaps. I've had a look before tbh, but nowt like a bit of real feedback, and the mower is a constant drain device so is a good measure Thanks.

I've never had any issues mating either with solvent glue, and I've fitted a colossal amount of the stuff. Usually the 110mm pipe is branched off via a boss strap or boss socket ( stand alone fitting or incorporated on a fitting ) and then a solvent weld adaptor is used to reduced to 50mm or less. I'm not sure of the material used in those fittings tbh so I'd have to ask, but for the strap on bosses I use a cleaner, scratch the 110mm pipe with emery cloth, and then use a gap filling solvent cement, not regular solvent weld, ( the cement type usually comes in a metal toothpaste type tube ) and once set it is like any other joint, rock solid. I'd avoid push fit like the plague, but compression is quite reliable tbh.

Yup. Bite the bullet and get a new battery. Likelihood is you'll faff around getting the duff cell identified and changed out and then the next adjacent cell will snuff it. Ive just got used to listing my dead makita batteries on eBay ( and they sell instantly for around a tenner )