Nickfromwales

The feckin walls!

The perimeters are secured by scrim and plaster. Moot point afaic. These don’t (can’t) move.

There’s not enough sweep, and there would be a lot of ‘matter’ going to the right as well as flowing away to the left. If a T is laid horizontally with a good fall then you can get away with it (just), but I avoid using them tbh. Not such a worry if theres a flushing WC upstream, but here there’s just a 40mm waste which isn't sufficient to ‘move things along’ (if there are any stragglers ).

Yup. Bin those off, as a box of 10mm nail clips is change of a tenner

“By Jove, I think he’s got it!” 🤝👍

Sounds like you should have done the job first as last lol! Get a friend or two around and crack on 🙃. I once asked the plaster-boarders apprentice, why are you using the wrong length screws (using 55mm when I had requested they used 32mm MAX to avoid all my LED multicore flex’s in the swimming pool walks)….. He replied that “these were already on site”. After plaster and paint we fired up the LED’s and POOF! Found a screw right through 2 of my 5-core cables for the RGBW stuff. Cheers. Only took about 3 days worth of looking / fault-finding at a cost of ~£2k to the client. Then began the patching back in and fully repainting the walls etc. Why are people generally just such lazy dicks???

When they respond, post back here.

They are brittle and have far less tolerance to snapping, vs regular wood screws. If he put plenty in then I think you'd be Ok, but if few and far between, then it could be a problem. Are these still exposed? If so, just pump a woodscrew in next to each one.

You'll prob need next to feck all heat up there anyways, so go with the slimmer option.

You may do well to read the hundreds of threads on here that answer this question, and all those to follow Have a quick search, you'll soon be up to your eyes in info for this subject.

Can a 10 or 12mm pipe be part of that 17mm thickness?

🫡

Needs no more thought or complication. Lay membrane, nail-clip the pipe down, pour screed, go to pub. It's THAT complicated

Yes, but also preclude the use of liquid screed, as it just runs under it and floats it, save the few screws crying themselves to death trying to prevent this happening. Dog. Shit.

Yup. Liquid Cemfloor screed straight onto that, 50-55mm thick, 60mm in 'places', job done.

They all do, as they're useless lazy twats. Drywall screws are brittle as feck, and shouldn't be used for these loads.

Maybe don't hang around the bus depot or retirement homes

Defo over the ply. Get some tile primer (Ultra flexi-prime etc) and water it down 50/50, and saturate the floor with a good few repeated coats. Don't let it dry. Then go on with neat primer, and then apply Mapei builders screed from Screwfix etx. Mix to the recommended consistency, and then add 1/4 pint of water to it. This must go down whilst the primer is wet. Pour, leave, and enjoy.

They all hit the plate, other than the 1120. It's zero to do with design.....just the size of the wall you have and the size of a WC seat. Fitted boatloads of these and nobody ever mentioned it. Life goes on.

Just change the branch! You'll still pick the waste up exactly the same way.

Mark them on the walls, or get a tape out and start noting datums and spacings etc.

If double-boarded and skimmed, there will be a huge amount of weight on those single drywall screws. First thing to do is speak to the manufacturer and ask what is required here. I'd be putting 2 screws in at each point of 'suspension', which will have zero negatives and a lot of positives. You think old boy Roy read the specs??

It'll flex regardless.

Ok, thanks. I'll book myself into Specsavers tomorrow. My only issue is, that is a T branch, and should be a Y branch like the other if poop is dropping into it from "Le Bog".

Nope. You get the benefit of the central area of ceiling being 'suspended', but at perimeters the walls and ceilings become one connected mass by default.